Georgieb

Thank you for verifying information source for these schematics Bruce. Are you able to add any clarity as to where we can get info regarding WDS reference material?

pclausen

Thanks Bruce!

Here's a direct link:

http://spaghetticoder.org/bmw/wds/e60e61/

And navigate to:

Complete vehicle/
body/Heating and air conditioning functions/
Air conditioning, temperature control/

Pre-LCI climate control:

Temperature control (IHKA High with (N52 engine or S85 engine) as of 2005_03 up to 2007_03)

LCI climate control:

Temperature control (IHKA High with (N52 engine or N53 enginer or N54 enginer or S85 engine) as of 2007_03)


While I can see the diagram in Firefox, I'm unable to zoom, nor do I seem to be able to do anything with the .svg file which represents the diagram. If I try to open it in Visio for example, I'm told the file is corrupt.

Explorer won't even display the schematic in the right pane.

I'm also curious if the connectors themselves are buried there somewhere? I looked in the following location:

Component and signal information/
Plug-in, comb-type and solder connectors/
Connectors from X7.../
X772 No adapter (IHKA High)/

But when I click on the following:

B11a, X772, B12a, X773 (5 Series_E60/E61)

All I get is a graphic showing "GREO_E60_64_0003"

Maybe I'm missing a plug in or something, although I tried this on 2 different Windows 7 boxes, both having Explorer and Firefox installed with the same results.

Any ideas?

545felix

download the adobe svg viewer plugin from the adobe site and you should be able to see the diagrams.

pclausen

Thanks Felix, that did the trick!

Ok, so here are the differences on the blue 26-pin Plug:



The compressor clutch control on pre-LCI (notice how only a single pin/signal (15) is used):



The compressor clutch control LCI (notice how both pin 15 and 21 is used):



Coolant pressure sensor pre-LCI (notice how pin 21 is grounded through a resistor inside the climate controller):



Coolant pressure sensor LCI (notice how the sensor is grounded externally):



So to fix the coolant sensor switch, it would appear that I should pull pin 21 from the connector and ground it, right? I think this will fix my coolant fan running at full speed all the time, as I think the system thinks my coolant pressure is too high all the time right now.

I'm not sure how to fix my AC compressor not coming on. I can't tell from the above diagrams how I can fix that. Any ideas?

pclausen

Anyone?

I suppose the next step would be to measure the voltage on pin 21 under various operating conditions using the pre-LCI climate control, and base don the findings, attempt to determine how to proceed?

Georgieb

Peter,
Just so we wrap our heads around this a bit better:
(01) On the Pre-LCI connector, PIN 21 of the CCC is wired to the DSENS Coolant pressure sensor. This is likely an input to the CCC given that there is a sensor in-circuit.
(02) On the LCI connector, Pin 21 of the CIC is wired to the MK Control Valve in A/C Compressor. Do we know if this is now an input or an output signal from the CIC? Likely output?
(03) We can disconnect PIN 21 on the cable-side (harness wired to the car), given that the new CIC is not expecting an input from DSENS Coolant pressure sensor from the circuit.

Questions:
(04) Does our Pre-LCI cars have an MK Control Valve in A/C Compressor which we can now connect at PIN 21 to the new CIC?
(05) If not how do we satisfy the expected condition for PIN 21 on the new CIC?

(06) In addition and given that the new CIC does not monitor the DSENS Coolant pressure sensor, are there any adverse effect on our pre-LCI cars? Since this pin is grounded in the old CCC, we can ground the pin removed from the harness-side so that it satisfies the conditions of the old circuit.

This leaves us questions (04) and (05) in terms of what we need to determine.

Georgieb

Well guess who joined the Mile High Club tonight!! I'm the latest and greatest member to complete the CIC Install. (Well almost complete). The hardware portion is done. Now I have to synchronize with Patryk to get the software updates done. I'm close, real close...

Hardware/Installation observations
- Forget what these guys tell you. The first time you do this it is NOT going to take you 15 minutes unless you have Guru-like powers. It took me about 2-1/2 hours by the time I figured out how to dissemble everything, disconnect all the cables, install the new hardware, figure out which connections went where and which were no longer used, re-configure the LCD power connector, route the USB interface etc etc. Having said all that, if I had to do it again I could potentially be in and out in 15 - 20 minutes....maybe.

- As you can see by the pictures, I choose to use the original pre-LCI AC Climate control panel. We still have some more experimenting to do to get the LCI Climate Control to work. The spacing in the button area is barely noticeable and definitely not going to be a hindrance. (I did the wife test by asking my better half to check out the install). She looked everything over and never commented on the space between the buttons and the panel. Its one of those things. You have to know its there to notice it.

- I left the original iDrive controller in its place. Modifying my shifter panel to accommodate the new controller is definitely more trouble than it is worth, in my opinion. I'm just gonna keep dredging eBay until an LCI version in dark poplar wood surfaces, then I'll scoop it up and complete the iDrive controller transition to LCI. Otherwise I'll bite the bullet and buy one from RealOEM or the likes.

- The USB interface was routed to the glove box. Definitely one of the easier places to leave it hanging. May Velcro this to the side of the glove box later if properly motivated.

- Now all that's left is Patryk's expertise in programing and activation of some fun new features like in-dash DVD etc. I still have to activate and install my 2010 NAV. It will have to wait on Patryk also as my iDrive controller skips the cursor from the bottom to the top of the menu just as Peter's did.

Anyway, I just wanted to give a great big THANK YOU to Patryk, Nelson, Technic, Peter, JWD, Bruce and all the other members who contributed to this thread and provided all the useful insights in provoking me to take on this mod. Hopefully I'll be able to give a bit back by helping any other members who are interested in doing this, and needs advise.

Now I'm off to track Patryk down to finish this thing. Yeah!

Abbizle

Hiya,

Was wondering if you can give me some help with FSC codes and CIC.

I've managed to get hold of a used CIC unit from an 09 car. I've also convinced my local BMW Dealer to get me the FSC code for the unit using my VIN no., ignoring any warnings on screen saying only to be used for LCI cars.

But I wanted to know what the process is. Seeing the CIC unit is already coded to an existing car:

1)Do I have to give the serial no. of the CIC unit as well as my VIN no. to BMW to generate the FSC code?

2)But on their system, will it show up as being used with a different VIN and reject the FSC code?

3)Or will the new FSC code reset and apply my VIN no. to the used CIC unit?

4)Or do I have to blank out the existing VIN and FSC code for the CIC unit, before applying for the FSC code?

Basically, just need to know what I can do with a used CIC and FSC code for my VIN to get the navigation part working?

Your input would be great.

Georgieb

Well after two sessions of coding with Patryk I'm all done for now. I've gotta say, the guy is a genius! My new iDrive interface is just off the chain. Today we added DVD in-motion, Real Time Traffic for NAV, Digital Speedo, and windows up/down via key fob. This mod took months to complete but it was all worth it.

Big thank you again Patryk. you da man!

abbizle,
Sorry I couldn't answer your questions but Patryk is probably best suited to answer them personally.

Abbizle

Anyone? Is Tecnic around to help? As Patryk refuses to help me.