CIC Retrofit Installation LOG
#801
Okay, I got the cable (full quad lock straight through), the amp (Rockford Fosgate PBR300x4 as you suggested) and the power cables (10AWG+fuse).
I see that the amp has a remote connector, what should I connect that to so that it powers on/off with the car?
Do the pins on this drawing look right? (I know thats the CCC, but apparently connector 13812 hasn't changed).
Thanks! Getting there
I see that the amp has a remote connector, what should I connect that to so that it powers on/off with the car?
Do the pins on this drawing look right? (I know thats the CCC, but apparently connector 13812 hasn't changed).
Thanks! Getting there
#802
Contributors
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 4,719
Likes: 3
From: London, UK
My Ride: BMW E60 520d SE Saloon M47 2.0dTitanium Grey II, Grey−Dakota Leather, Visibility Package, Media Package, Through Load System, Lumbar support − fr seats, Automatic Air Conditioning−Advanced, High beam assistant, Hi−Fi Loudspeak
Model Year: 2006
This will take a long time to type but its actually quite easy.
You will need a fully wired quadlock male female pair.
CCC wiring:
The big pins on the quadlock were used to drive the 4 speakers. There were two small pins on the micro plug that used to send the Low level input to the amp in the rear.
CIC wiring:
The two small pins on the micro plug don't output the low level signal any more. Depending on how your CIC has been code the big pins will either output a High level speaker signal to drive the 4 speakers or a low level signal to drive the 4 speakers.
You will need to take those inputs from the CIC side of the plug and send them to your amp. Then take the amp outputs and send them to the wiring harness side of the speakers. This will ensure that you have your 4 speakers driven correctly. Don't worry if the amp is slightly higher rated - just don't push it.
However to also drive your subs you will need to also send the rear Low levels to the wiring harness small pins. This will ensure that the rear low level is reaching your new Rockford amp and the old Hi-Fi amp.
This is why you need the fully wired versions. Ofcourse its not the end of the world if you haven't bought that, it just means that you will have to transplant the smaller plugs and remove the Hi-Fi amp inputs from the plug. A little bit more work.
You will need a fully wired quadlock male female pair.
CCC wiring:
The big pins on the quadlock were used to drive the 4 speakers. There were two small pins on the micro plug that used to send the Low level input to the amp in the rear.
CIC wiring:
The two small pins on the micro plug don't output the low level signal any more. Depending on how your CIC has been code the big pins will either output a High level speaker signal to drive the 4 speakers or a low level signal to drive the 4 speakers.
You will need to take those inputs from the CIC side of the plug and send them to your amp. Then take the amp outputs and send them to the wiring harness side of the speakers. This will ensure that you have your 4 speakers driven correctly. Don't worry if the amp is slightly higher rated - just don't push it.
However to also drive your subs you will need to also send the rear Low levels to the wiring harness small pins. This will ensure that the rear low level is reaching your new Rockford amp and the old Hi-Fi amp.
This is why you need the fully wired versions. Ofcourse its not the end of the world if you haven't bought that, it just means that you will have to transplant the smaller plugs and remove the Hi-Fi amp inputs from the plug. A little bit more work.
#803
Thanks -- I did manage to get a full quad lock cable.
What do you think is better for this amp - high or low level output from the CIC?
Is there any DIY on how to get the amp into the area above the glovebox? Is it difficult?
And I think the last piece of the puzzle is how to connect the amp to the glovebox fuse box. Is any special connector needed? I guess someone must have done this before, but I couldn't find any posts :-/
Update: looks like pin 13 on CIC is amp remote.
What do you think is better for this amp - high or low level output from the CIC?
Is there any DIY on how to get the amp into the area above the glovebox? Is it difficult?
And I think the last piece of the puzzle is how to connect the amp to the glovebox fuse box. Is any special connector needed? I guess someone must have done this before, but I couldn't find any posts :-/
Update: looks like pin 13 on CIC is amp remote.
#804
Contributors
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 4,719
Likes: 3
From: London, UK
My Ride: BMW E60 520d SE Saloon M47 2.0dTitanium Grey II, Grey−Dakota Leather, Visibility Package, Media Package, Through Load System, Lumbar support − fr seats, Automatic Air Conditioning−Advanced, High beam assistant, Hi−Fi Loudspeak
Model Year: 2006
I have done it.
For power you need to buy two connectors.
61131387146 for earth.
61138377733 for +ve
The +ve will go into a free space in the front fuse box. If you look at the blocks you will notice several free spots. Just choose one and then add a 30A fuse to it.
The earth connector will go into the earth junction need the glove box.
In terms of a DIY look for ones where they refer to the idrive Video module and look where that has been mounted. Your amp will go there.
Yes the CIC has a remote on as well that needs to be branched out for your new amp (you seem to be getting the hang of what you need to do).
Where did you buy the harness from?
For power you need to buy two connectors.
61131387146 for earth.
61138377733 for +ve
The +ve will go into a free space in the front fuse box. If you look at the blocks you will notice several free spots. Just choose one and then add a 30A fuse to it.
The earth connector will go into the earth junction need the glove box.
In terms of a DIY look for ones where they refer to the idrive Video module and look where that has been mounted. Your amp will go there.
Yes the CIC has a remote on as well that needs to be branched out for your new amp (you seem to be getting the hang of what you need to do).
Where did you buy the harness from?
#805
I got the cable from Bimmer Retrofit.
Just bought the two connectors you suggested. Thanks, I had no idea about those parts.
Which drive video module do you mean? Is it TV-IN or is it the video in motion activation module? I figured the former, but I haven't found anything useful so far.
Just bought the two connectors you suggested. Thanks, I had no idea about those parts.
Which drive video module do you mean? Is it TV-IN or is it the video in motion activation module? I figured the former, but I haven't found anything useful so far.
#806
Contributors
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 4,719
Likes: 3
From: London, UK
My Ride: BMW E60 520d SE Saloon M47 2.0dTitanium Grey II, Grey−Dakota Leather, Visibility Package, Media Package, Through Load System, Lumbar support − fr seats, Automatic Air Conditioning−Advanced, High beam assistant, Hi−Fi Loudspeak
Model Year: 2006
Link to the harness please?
Read this link https://5series.net/forums/topic/112...tom-av-system/ and where the guy has installed his Video Interface, that's where you are going to be attempting to install the amp.
Read this link https://5series.net/forums/topic/112...tom-av-system/ and where the guy has installed his Video Interface, that's where you are going to be attempting to install the amp.
#808
Contributors
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 4,719
Likes: 3
From: London, UK
My Ride: BMW E60 520d SE Saloon M47 2.0dTitanium Grey II, Grey−Dakota Leather, Visibility Package, Media Package, Through Load System, Lumbar support − fr seats, Automatic Air Conditioning−Advanced, High beam assistant, Hi−Fi Loudspeak
Model Year: 2006
you ought to consider making another thread about this. We are clogging up a CIC retrofit thread with a specific issue, which cannot be easily referenced in future. Plus after you are done you can show people how you did it.
#809
That's the plan. Just getting the pieces together.
#810
Okay, the new thread for CIC Retrofit + Option 676 is updated: https://5series.net/forums/topic/119...4#entry1403654