rorschach76

@Tom_Il - good call on bulb. Switching them around pinpointed the one throwing the error(even though it still worked)


@2008Msport
Do you remember which guide had the comfort access wires

tom_il

Its best you check all 4 the guides and repair damaged cables, as if you don't you will end up doing them one by one ones the other cables fail.

rorschach76

Hmm Ill have to block another day out and hope i dont do something stupid again like lose the retaining bolt...

rorschach76

So I took the time to pop open the inside passenger loom today. This is the one leading to the liftgate. Therr is not a single broken wire. I checked the length of the wire inside the metal guide.

Anyone have any other ideas for the comfort access? Is there a way to resync the keys to the car? The buttons on the remote work fine

tom_il

I already answered that question, but if you refuse tot listen then I cannot help you.

Did you pull the wires through the loudspeaker opening ?

rorschach76

Ok.

Yes i pulled it all the way out.

Ill see if have time to pull the driver side out some other time. Both passenger sides are intact and all the other people have specified passenger inner as the comfort access killer.

May still be the key. Inpa says my key has "Status Passive access - Not Active"

rorschach76

Problem was key. DIS to change profiles and remove old keys and my CA is up and running

tortoiseracing

I attempted this fix last weekend. I opened up the two bundles of wires on the right (passenger) side of the car. None of the wires were broken on the outside bundle, but almost all the wires were broken on the inside bundle (to the window).

I used butt crimp connectors to extend the wires and then covered it with heat shrink.

Prior to the fix, I had the following problems:
* Key remote was not working
* Center brake light was not working
* Tailgate hatch window would not open

After extending all the wires, nothing was fixed. But, I checked and the fuse for the antenna amplifier was blown (#77, 5 A). After replacing that fuse, the key remote works again (and FM antenna). One thing fixed.

The tailgate hatch now pops open all the time, so I think the microswitch is shorted out. Time to replace that.

The part that has me confused is the center brake light, which is still not working. The ground wire is not connected to ground. I checked the repair I did, and there is continuity through that section, but no continuity to the car ground. If I manually use another piece of wire to connect the ground, then the brake light works.

Time to get a Bentley manual and check the wiring diagrams. I have a feeling the fuse could be blown. I can only imagine that when the two wires were severed, they shorted out.

andystone

well, after following the good advice on this thread i have managed to repair what seems like a million broken or damaged wires, in fact i snipped the lot and repaired all of them bar the 2 wires on the passenger side, power and ariell???. i now have fully working rear lights and third brake light! (numerous LED's out but now all working!). radio reception good but still no remote locking despite resetting the keys. the diversity unit has only a small amount of corrosion but i'm guessing this is enough to break it and replacement will have to be sought. anyone know how much these are new? anything else i need to do before shelling out?

tortoiseracing

I finally have all the wiring fixed on my tailgate. The rear window switch also needed to be replaced, but now I can open and close the window without any problems.

Also, I had to replace the suppression filter in order to get my center brake light to work. When the wires broke, they shorted, most likely overloading the circuit.