norsecarnut

Check this out people: 61119231820 - REP. WIRING HARNESS, - ES#2080494

I'm trying to see if this is a basically plug-n-play solution. It is the BMW "repair" loom:
right: 61119231820 - REP. WIRING HARNESS, - ES#2080494
left: 61119231821 - REP. WIRING HARNESS, - ES#2080495

There's also this new metal brackets for each side:
right: 61119241656 - REPAIR KIT FOR PLUG - ES#2101340
left: 61119241657 - REPAIR KIT FOR PLUG - ES#2136201

Part numbers based on info from real oem:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...78#61119231820

X90JML

ANY help would be appreciated.

Reading through the posts and other sites this job becomes easier and easier in my head. Yesterday I decided to give it a crack as im fed up with the constant 'BONG' everytime i turn the car on.

recently my rear reverse lights have failed along with the tailgate glass hatch (switch still works) just pops open every time i turn the car on. I dismantled the switch so I cannot use the glass boot. Now the reverse lights are not working its becoming more of an issue for obvious reasons.

I managed to get into the far right hand side loom through the speaker and taking off various covers under the glass lid.

I have found two wires that were cut completely and various other which had minor damage. I did this within about 10 minutes of looking so was thinking this was too easy to be true.

I crimped the two wire back together and turned the car on................'BONG' the reverse lights still don't work. Very annoying as i though i had solved it.

Any suggestions as to why????????

X90JML

Hello,

sorry for the no brains...but what wires did you use to extend as there are numerous different sizes and colours? cheers in advance.

mitchgixer6

Have you checked the wires on the other side?

X90JML

[QUOTE=mitchgixer6;1564178]Have you checked the wires on the other side?[/QUOTE

Cancel my last...the reverse light are now working....patched them together with wire wire connectors. When I have some free time I will take it all apart and extend the wires. Does anyone know what wires I should be buying as I have 0 electrical skills. Is it just standard electrical wire from halfords? Ensuring the new wire is same size or bigger? Thanks

GrahamS_E61

I've got a reverse light failure, but the bulbs ok, so tailgate loom is probably the culprit. The wiring hinges have previously been forced open and a bodge job of taping up the wires has been performed at some time. The radio reception packs up with the rear heated window on as well

I've read this thread, and others on here about the same issue, so I know the sizes needed, and I've seen the replacement/repair kits.

Has anyone investigated the possibility of replacing the quite stupid cable snapping hinges with some sort of flexible trunking? Like every other car manufacturer uses on their boot lids, and lasts for 20+ years........

Alternatively using a multicore cable, so all the leads are protected inside the outer shell.

cable for robotic applications looks good. flexible and abrasion resistant.

Am I correct in thinking that the full loom includes moulded water seals/grommets - so even if you can find the right crimp connectors you can't make your own replacement?

mitchgixer6

I used silicone wire for the repair. It's much more flexible and not as susceptible to cold weather. If you find my guide which I posted a while ago that gives the thickness of wires I used, you'll need 2 different sizes.

GrahamS_E61

parked up, opened boot, shut boot, walked dogs. opened boot, closed boot.

got this message



fiddled with broken wires in the hinge, disconnected battery for 20 minutes, fault cleared.

becoming a priority before an expensive module gets killed.

but of course it's raining

edit link to dropbox not working. no upload option nice photo of idrive warning message)

GrahamS_E61

Just bought a few meters of extra flexible cable from Maplin for £2 and some heatshrink.

I've looked at all the guides, and have an idea, if anyone who has done it already could comment.

remove the panels and trim as described in the guides.

Instead of disconnecting the looms from the boot lid, pulling it into the car and doing the repair, and then feeding it back into the boot lid, how about........

Cut each wire in the boot, and insert the replacement wire,and then pull this newly inserted wire into the car, cut out the damaged section and join.

would that be easier?

mitchgixer6

That might work, but you may have trouble pulling the new wire through into the car. It's quite fidly as it is. You'd need to wrap all the new cables together to give you any chance of doing it.

I don't see much benefit in this though except from it being slightly easier to work on the cable joins. The stressed area of the cable is only an inch long where it exits the metal guide. There is no stress on the rest of the cable so no real reason to replace any more cable then necessary.