CIC Retrofit Installation LOG
#1051
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Join Date: May 2014
Location: My house
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My Ride: 535XI
Model Year: 2008
Engine: N54
Done, after some adjustment and a scary moment .......
Now how do i get my CD option back?
https://vid.me/MYCJ
Now how do i get my CD option back?
https://vid.me/MYCJ
Last edited by Kewill0360; 03-26-2016 at 09:46 AM.
#1054
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Join Date: May 2014
Location: My house
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My Ride: 535XI
Model Year: 2008
Engine: N54
OK.......
I updated MOSTGW TO ZB.NO 9185636.
Now ZBE guessing is the cic controller module, have ZB.NO 9205177 and vin from old car.
Can i update this single module or do other modules need to be update to get to ZBE?
I updated MOSTGW TO ZB.NO 9185636.
Now ZBE guessing is the cic controller module, have ZB.NO 9205177 and vin from old car.
Can i update this single module or do other modules need to be update to get to ZBE?
#1055
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Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Japan
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My Ride: 525i MSport 25th Anniversary Japan Special Edition
Nelson29 or Peter,
How did you guys get the LCI Klima Control to work properly? I am updating to the NBT and I am having the same issue. I tapped into pin wire 21 and then to the positive and negative ground for the actuall unit, (2 wires) far left creating a loop type connection. The fan no longer runs at Mach speed but the compressor is still not kicking in. Did you guys have to code the LCI Klima Control Panel to your cars?
BREAK
I am also having a problem with my GPS. It shows me in Japan, but not anywhere that I live (900km) off. Can you please help resolve this.
How did you guys get the LCI Klima Control to work properly? I am updating to the NBT and I am having the same issue. I tapped into pin wire 21 and then to the positive and negative ground for the actuall unit, (2 wires) far left creating a loop type connection. The fan no longer runs at Mach speed but the compressor is still not kicking in. Did you guys have to code the LCI Klima Control Panel to your cars?
BREAK
I am also having a problem with my GPS. It shows me in Japan, but not anywhere that I live (900km) off. Can you please help resolve this.
#1056
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Join Date: May 2014
Location: My house
Posts: 392
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My Ride: 535XI
Model Year: 2008
Engine: N54
Nelson29 or Peter,
How did you guys get the LCI Klima Control to work properly? I am updating to the NBT and I am having the same issue. I tapped into pin wire 21 and then to the positive and negative ground for the actuall unit, (2 wires) far left creating a loop type connection. The fan no longer runs at Mach speed but the compressor is still not kicking in. Did you guys have to code the LCI Klima Control Panel to your cars?
BREAK
I am also having a problem with my GPS. It shows me in Japan, but not anywhere that I live (900km) off. Can you please help resolve this.
How did you guys get the LCI Klima Control to work properly? I am updating to the NBT and I am having the same issue. I tapped into pin wire 21 and then to the positive and negative ground for the actuall unit, (2 wires) far left creating a loop type connection. The fan no longer runs at Mach speed but the compressor is still not kicking in. Did you guys have to code the LCI Klima Control Panel to your cars?
BREAK
I am also having a problem with my GPS. It shows me in Japan, but not anywhere that I live (900km) off. Can you please help resolve this.
Nbt was not made for E60
#1057
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Annapolis, MD
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My Ride: 530ix
Model Year: 2020
I got my CIC in and most things work--sadly I need to do the subwoofer fix as I have no base. but most things work--does anyone know how to fix Parking ventilation? that is greyed out now and it used to work before. I kind of miss that with the summer coming.
Has anyone come across this?
Has anyone come across this?
#1058
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Annapolis, MD
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My Ride: 530ix
Model Year: 2020
It "works" with the caveat that this configuration is not designed to work as is as the speakers are being driven by a low level signal. A low level signal does not have enough current to drive a speaker by itself by definition.
It could be technically possible that the IC amp in the CIC is smart enough to detect the OEM speakers low impedance and switch itself to high level, but I really do not know what IC amp is that and much less if it is capable of performing such an automatic switch. That could explain why it seems to work with the "old" HiFi system but only in the front/rear speakers as those are the only 4 outputs of the CIC. For the woofers the CIC outputs need to be re-wired to supply the signal to the OEM amp in the trunk by tapping a pair of the 4 outputs as the source.
The CIC also has a Stereo output configuration, 4 high level outputs (25W per channel) which the 2 fronts are full range, heavily EQ and the 2 rear are high passed at around 150Hz and also EQ. This configuration is used to drive 6 speakers directly.
The CIC HiFi signals are full range, flat, balanced and high voltage low level (5-6V).
Yes, I coded my CIC to both Stereo and HiFi for comparison. It came from factory in the Top HiFi output configuration (MOST).
In your situation I would get a JBL MS-8 processor, and a full set of Morel speakers (front, rear and underseat woofers), an Individual Audio OEM center speaker and two JL Audio HD600/4 amps. If you want a sub in the trunk then it is one HD600/4 and one HD900/5. No need of rear door speakers with this setup. This combo will give you a much better Logic7 processing than OEM, allow you to custom tune/adjust it in minutes, and adjust signal delay to any seat in your E60. And it will sound much better than the Individual Audio OEM system.
To connect all this you will need a Stereo harness (from the CIC outputs to the MS-8, and from an HD amp outputs to the front and rear speakers), a Top HiFi harness (from the output of the HD amp to the woofers), an OEM center channel harness and trim (available at your dealer) and a set of OEM speaker connectors for the doors and rear deck speakers. The woofers can be connected to the OEM connector by using Tyco blade pins. No single OEM wire needs to be cut, spliced or tapped. I sell all those harnesses and OEM connectors.
It could be technically possible that the IC amp in the CIC is smart enough to detect the OEM speakers low impedance and switch itself to high level, but I really do not know what IC amp is that and much less if it is capable of performing such an automatic switch. That could explain why it seems to work with the "old" HiFi system but only in the front/rear speakers as those are the only 4 outputs of the CIC. For the woofers the CIC outputs need to be re-wired to supply the signal to the OEM amp in the trunk by tapping a pair of the 4 outputs as the source.
The CIC also has a Stereo output configuration, 4 high level outputs (25W per channel) which the 2 fronts are full range, heavily EQ and the 2 rear are high passed at around 150Hz and also EQ. This configuration is used to drive 6 speakers directly.
The CIC HiFi signals are full range, flat, balanced and high voltage low level (5-6V).
Yes, I coded my CIC to both Stereo and HiFi for comparison. It came from factory in the Top HiFi output configuration (MOST).
In your situation I would get a JBL MS-8 processor, and a full set of Morel speakers (front, rear and underseat woofers), an Individual Audio OEM center speaker and two JL Audio HD600/4 amps. If you want a sub in the trunk then it is one HD600/4 and one HD900/5. No need of rear door speakers with this setup. This combo will give you a much better Logic7 processing than OEM, allow you to custom tune/adjust it in minutes, and adjust signal delay to any seat in your E60. And it will sound much better than the Individual Audio OEM system.
To connect all this you will need a Stereo harness (from the CIC outputs to the MS-8, and from an HD amp outputs to the front and rear speakers), a Top HiFi harness (from the output of the HD amp to the woofers), an OEM center channel harness and trim (available at your dealer) and a set of OEM speaker connectors for the doors and rear deck speakers. The woofers can be connected to the OEM connector by using Tyco blade pins. No single OEM wire needs to be cut, spliced or tapped. I sell all those harnesses and OEM connectors.
am I off base?
#1059
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Ames,IA
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My Ride: LCI M5 Alpine White III
Model Year: 2008
Engine: S85
can i use the frame and idrive controller trim P/N 51169155970 51169155987 which used in late lci 5series instead the one in 6series P/N 51169169999? I see most people used the one offer in 6 series.
#1060
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Join Date: May 2017
Location: Vienna
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My Ride: M6 E63
Hi guys, i have to kick in on this thread.
I have the complete opposite problem.
I have an Pre-LCI IHKA, but a LCI air compressor.
The LCI air compressor has an magnetic clutch which is switch on via 12V on Pin21 on the LCI IHKA.
But my Pre-LCI IHKA dont has 12V on Pin21 it has ground which goes to the coolant presure sensor.
Anyone know what to do?
I have the complete opposite problem.
I have an Pre-LCI IHKA, but a LCI air compressor.
The LCI air compressor has an magnetic clutch which is switch on via 12V on Pin21 on the LCI IHKA.
But my Pre-LCI IHKA dont has 12V on Pin21 it has ground which goes to the coolant presure sensor.
Anyone know what to do?