gav900

Small update,

I got a new air charge temp sensor today and plugged it in with the car stone cold. I took a reading of the old one first (77 degrees C!) and then plugged in the new one (18 degrees C...which was just a couple of degrees above ambient). I did notice the old sensor was pretty wet with oil...which was probably why it failed? Going to disconnect the charge air pipes at the intercooler at the weekend and drain any loose oil that's in there. Will also be fitting a new air filter and crankcase breather if its the old type.
One more thing, i did manage to get the regen to start the other day...but it only lasted about 30 seconds. Looks like the theory behind the fuel level was correct...the car MUST have more than half a tank of fuel to enable DPF regeneration. I think this is why mine attempted it, but failed on the crazy charge air temp. To check how much fuel you have in your tank (in Liters) and using DIS, go to Body/Instrument cluster and read the values in Tank Sensor 1 and Tank Sensor 2. Tank sensor 2 must have more than 10 liters of fuel in it for DPF regen (over half a tank).

Sorry for going on a bit...

Gav

Anzafin

San1

I had this problem many months ago. I spent hours/weeks reading and trying different ways to force the regeneration in DIS. In the end I gave up on the removal (M57N2) as it seemed to difficult to get under the car.

After spending so much time on this rubbish, I parked the car on my drive which is very steep, removed the lamda sensor, poured washing up liquid in and stuck a 120 bar jet wash into it. It was a very tight fit. I let the water flow out of the exhaust into buckets. I emptied 6 buckets in 1 hours until the water was clean. Refitted the lambda sensor and tried to start it. It would not turn over, I this point I nearly shit my pants thinking what have I done. I realised I must of pumped water into the cylinders. I let the engine turn for about a second, switched off, tried again and increased a second more each time. Eventually after 6-7 tries water blasted out the back and it started. I WOULD NEVER DO THIS AGAIN. Steam was coming out and I let it run for 5 minutes. I connected INPA, cleared the errors and checked in DIS that regeneration is requested in the DDE, then took it for a drive locally, straight away the regeneration started. I took it for approx 10 minute drive until the regeneration completed. The error was gone. Bad news was it came back after 3 months. I've been driving for over a month with the error and need to do something.

After speaking to some garages, some wash them out with petrol first before they jet wash. I know you really need to dissolve any burnt on oil/soot inside the DPF.

Once I have removed the dam thing I will be doing the following:
1. Make a wood cover with a hole so I can clamp the jet was nozzle on one end.
2. Stand the DPF upright in a plastic bucket and poor some detergent in.
3. Attach the wooded cover and let it clean as much soot as it can.
4. Poor a thin household bleach until it's full and let is dissolve for 5 minutes.
5. Blast out with water again.
6. Poor a thick bleach and repeat until the water is 100% clear.
7. Wash with detergent and poor in boiling water to check if the soot has cleared.
8. Let it stand for a few hours or dry with a air line.
9. Cook in the oven at full temperature for an hour and let it cool down.
10. Refit, and drive.

I really need a guide on how to remove the DPF for washing. Does the engine undercover have to be removed?

gav900

Hi San1

I also still have the problem, it's starting to get on my nerves. I have ordered a new main thermostat and egr thermostat as i don't believe the engine is reaching 90 + degrees like it should...this may be hampering regen. I'd really like to get rid of the dpf altogether, but the options are not cheap.
I think you'll need take the combined cat/dpf out from below the car..which means removing the underguard.

Good Luck!

San1

Hi Gav900.
Try using DIS to monitor temperatures. I hook up mine to watch exhaust temps, coolant temperatures, back pressure, status of regeneration etc.. while driving with my misses. The only way I have seen exhaust temperatures rise is by going up-hill, at 40mph, with everything on in the car, like heaters, rear windscreen, fans, light. I think this puts more load on the car, the engine works harder thus temperature increase. You may find your back pressure will decrease slightly which may in turn kick in the regeneration. I believe the DPF regenerates in two ways, 1. when parameters are right - e.g. driving on a motorway/fuel level/speed. 2. forced regeneration where the engine adjusts fuel/combustion to increase exhaust temperature to burn off the soot. In our case some parameters, perhaps back pressure is not allowing it to activate. I will post some readings later so you can compare.

gav900

Sans1

I have done exactly that, misses driving car while i monitor temps and pressures. I have done the test plan enabling forced regen in the DDE (6.2). Still it won't regen, i'm sure its something simple (already replaced the air charge temp sensor). Going to do the thermostats soon to see if that helps.
Incidently, is your car an M57N2 ?

Gav

KRJ

Thanks Antti for great DIY!!!!

I cleaned my DPF yesterday after having a complete clogged filter. Took me about 2,5 hours from start until finish. Hardest part was undoing the bolts. I used only hot water with some strong soap at first and then just hit it with high preassure water. After this job the car felt like new again!

Walk in the park after reading the DIY

Once more, thanks Antti!

Jyrarrak

I have 530d 2004, cat and dpf separately.
DPF was heavily clogged, according to DIS backpressure was 80mbar @ 800RPM. I washed dpf with fairy and engine cleaner and with hot water and then with cold water + drying the same way as in the beginning of this topic. After this backpressure was 7,8mbar @ 800rpm. Cleared fault codes. Everything worked perfect about two weeks. Now backpressure is again 80mbar, filter is heavily clogged and car is in limp mode. After washing process regegeneration never started. Now I trid to force it with DIS but it dosen't start probably becouse dpf is clogged again.

Is it possible that fairy or engine cleaner ruined somehow dpf chemical structure? What about to drill hole(s) to the dpf cell? Couple d=12mm holes?

mmitev

BTW guys there is another chemical on the market for the DPF cleaning.

It comes from a German company, and the DPF does not need to be removed!!!
The chemical is sprayed through the hole for the temp sensor, to me it looks pretty clever. Won't be extremely cheap probably, but the labour to remove the filter isn't either. The link is in German, but you can see the pics at least.

http://www.tunap.com/de/news/dieselp...stauschen.html

If anyone has used this, please let us know how it worked and how much it cost..

Anzafin

Good to hear you got your problem solved .


I don't believe that Fairy or engine cleaner would have harmed the DPF anyhow. You can drill the holes through the DPF and I'm pretty sure your problems will be solved, but you will get some black smoke after drilling. If you don't mind that, then go for it.

I would be interested as well.

- Antti -