San1

That is really high! Well I tried something else just hours ago... I removed the pipe that goes in to the pressure sensor and poured a boiling kettle of water down it using s funnel with some washing up liquid. Refitted the pipe and started up. The water blasted out the exhaust and took about 5 minutes to dry out. I made sure regeneration was requested in the DDE and took it for s spin. About 15 minutes of driving nothing happened until I came home and parked up. The status went active. I increased the revs it went de-active. Straight away i took it for a 10 min drive, the regeneration only lasted 4-5 minutes. I found it best driving slowly at 40mph in 4th. The back pressure at idle went as low as 0.9mbar. Now it's approx 3mbar. I did see the exhaust temperature rise up to 640 degrees while regenerating and the revs were limited at one point with the turbo constantly on. Funny thing is the turbo makes a whoosh sound with the whistle. Perhaps the high temp cleaned the turbo too. I'm going on motorway run this evening. I will post the new readings later. If everything is okay, i'm going to force regeneration every 2 weeks.

gav900

Be very careful pouring water into your exhaust/dpf, if any water finds its way into the cylinders its goodbye engine when you try to startup.
I'm going to remove my dpf this weekend and have a look, maybe try some caustic in there, or burn it out with a blowtourch! HAH!

Gav

San1

I know about the water thing. Last time I used a water jet and some water did go up into the cylinders, had trouble starting it. I always park the car on my steep drive and let the water roll out of the back. This time i just poured it in and kept the level in funnel below the turbo. The good news is the DPF error has gone and did not come back after a 80 mile drive. I will post the new pressure readings later.

Gav, when you remove the DPF can you post a guide, images, perhaps a video please? I would like to attempt it but give up as the underguard has to come off, the exhaust clamp although BMW say to remove the whole exhaust but I think you may be able to get away just unlinking at the DPF and forcing it out. You may not have to remove the whole underguard just lower it at one corner.

Anzafin

Unfortunately I'm having issues again with my DPF.

In last 2-3 months I've been driving only short trips in town because of my interior upholstering project and the car being ripped in parts. These very short trips have caused the DPF to get clogged again. It's not as bad as last winter, but the RPMs will not raise easily after 2500RPMs and the car stops accelerating. My plan is to remove the DPF tomorrow and wash it again, but first I'll try forced regenerating with DIS tonight and see if it helps anything.

I'm very close about to drill holes through that mo*#!!¤!ing can, though...

- Antti -

gav900

I feel your pain bro, tho your car is easier to gain access than the M57N2 'knucklekiller'. This is what i'm worried about...if we do small runs we're screwed, this device is supposed to save the planet...but we have to scream up and down motorways needlessly to keep it clean!
I'd watch with the hole drilling mate, do too many and the car will see next to no differential in pressure and 'complain' about that too!
Currently i am conversing with this guy for a soloution..
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FAP-DPF-OFF-DIESEL-PARTICULATE-FILTER-EMULATOR-/320559713381?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4aa2d90c65Today i'm going to replace both my thermostats and have a good look at whats entailed with dpf removal on the M57N2.
I will take pics San1

Onward >>>

San1

Mine is a M57N2! We are the unlucky ones!

San1

Hi Antti. How does the ECU know exactly how much ash/smut inside the DPF? There are no sensors other than the pressure, lamda and temperature sensor on the M57N2 DPF. I assume it is estimated over time. If we replaced the DPF with a new one the ECU will most likely hold these figures. DIS has a option for DPF replacement which if I'm not wrong will reset everything. I think we need to try resetting it after a clean. I can't reset this because my car is under warranty and they will only cover some of the bill, so I can't mess with the iDrive for now. I have seen some BMW's driving and the amount of white smoke they produce while cleaning is like fog it's so much. I have not seen any smoke like this on mine before. Try the pressure check in DIS, you may find that the levels are too high for forced regeneration. I found the air temp sensor on mine had popped out that was causing the extra whoosh sound last night. I may have loosened it when I checked it a few days ago.

Anzafin

Sorry I have no idea how the ECU knows about the amount of ash and soot in DPF.

Surprisingly, the car worked perfectly today. The DPF error is still there though, and I couldn't get the regeneration on with DIS. So I guess it's a washing night tomorrow.

- Antti -

hf-325d

mine is also the combined unit, but will the cleaning process still be the same, even when the cat/dpf is in the same unit ? what would be the best cleaning agent ? really not looking forward to buying a new unit, so i will try the diy route first. just have to get a proper diagnose first, the dealer is doing a diagnose next tuesday.. car still drives ok, pulls strong. low fuel consumption..

Anzafin

Hi and welcome to the forums!

Yes the cleaning process will be the same. It doesn't matter that a catalytic converter is combined at the same can. I have used a strong detergent washing solvent (98% petrol) and it worked fine. Plus you need a power washer to shoot the s*it out!

- Antti -