DIY maintenance for the DPF...
05-07-2012, 03:22 AM
#241
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This is how I do:
I start DIS, I chose the car and let it do the quick test. After that, if there is any problem with the DPF it will get an "x" for the DDE tests. Then it will prompt for the verification of the clogged DPF and gave some options to check it manually. The 4th option I guess is the one for testing backpressure. After you do the backpressure test, if the real value is higher than the max admisible value you will chose to start a forced regeneration. Of course, even if the backpressure is lower than the maximum admisible one, you are still asked about the values and you will response that the values excedded the admisible
I have done the cleaning of my cat+DPF (318d E90) with high pressure demineralised water and then used high air pressure to get the water out of it. At first, the water couldn't pass the cat to the DPF. In the end, the water could pass it by simple gravity force One hour continous cleaning. Now the car runs smoother, it feels better and the consumption lowered with more than 1L/100km. It feels like in the good old days now.
Regards, Alex
I start DIS, I chose the car and let it do the quick test. After that, if there is any problem with the DPF it will get an "x" for the DDE tests. Then it will prompt for the verification of the clogged DPF and gave some options to check it manually. The 4th option I guess is the one for testing backpressure. After you do the backpressure test, if the real value is higher than the max admisible value you will chose to start a forced regeneration. Of course, even if the backpressure is lower than the maximum admisible one, you are still asked about the values and you will response that the values excedded the admisible
I have done the cleaning of my cat+DPF (318d E90) with high pressure demineralised water and then used high air pressure to get the water out of it. At first, the water couldn't pass the cat to the DPF. In the end, the water could pass it by simple gravity force
One hour continous cleaning. Now the car runs smoother, it feels better and the consumption lowered with more than 1L/100km. It feels like in the good old days now.Regards, Alex
07-17-2012, 11:47 AM
#242
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Hello All,
I have power problem an local indi thinks its the DPF blocked and said his machine said the last regen was 15000 miles ago, i am unsure how true that is, its going to the dealer tomorrow for another diagnostics aftr the first time they said it was stuck swirl flaps reducing power, little did they know the has had its swirl flaps removed. anyway before i try a physical clean of the dpf can someone please tell me where i can buy/download this DIS software for the regen and where the cable to connect to the car can be brought here in the uk?
I have power problem an local indi thinks its the DPF blocked and said his machine said the last regen was 15000 miles ago, i am unsure how true that is, its going to the dealer tomorrow for another diagnostics aftr the first time they said it was stuck swirl flaps reducing power, little did they know the has had its swirl flaps removed. anyway before i try a physical clean of the dpf can someone please tell me where i can buy/download this DIS software for the regen and where the cable to connect to the car can be brought here in the uk?
07-17-2012, 12:08 PM
#243
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Hi.
Welcome to the forums and sorry to hear about your problems.
It is very possible that the last regeneration happened 15000 miles ago. I guess you have faulty thermostat(s), which will block the regeneration if the engine coolant never reaches the 75°C (and there are other required terms too).
Sorry can't point out any sources for the DIS, but the OBD2 cables can be found in eBay. The plug for the cable locates in a driver's footwell.
The dealer can send the forced regeneration command to the ECU as well, but it may not work if the DPF is badly clogged. Another thing that you could try (when you have the DIS + cable) is to send the regeneration command to the ECU again and again and again while you're driving the car. Many people have told that they were able to get that command through this way even if their DPF was badly clogged. Please note that the coolant has to be over 75°C and other terms have to be fulfilled as well, when you're trying to force the regeneration process on.
- Antti -
Welcome to the forums and sorry to hear about your problems.
It is very possible that the last regeneration happened 15000 miles ago. I guess you have faulty thermostat(s), which will block the regeneration if the engine coolant never reaches the 75°C (and there are other required terms too).
Sorry can't point out any sources for the DIS, but the OBD2 cables can be found in eBay. The plug for the cable locates in a driver's footwell.
The dealer can send the forced regeneration command to the ECU as well, but it may not work if the DPF is badly clogged. Another thing that you could try (when you have the DIS + cable) is to send the regeneration command to the ECU again and again and again while you're driving the car. Many people have told that they were able to get that command through this way even if their DPF was badly clogged. Please note that the coolant has to be over 75°C and other terms have to be fulfilled as well, when you're trying to force the regeneration process on.
- Antti -
07-17-2012, 12:18 PM
#244
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Another thing that you could try (when you have the DIS + cable) is to send the regeneration command to the ECU again and again and again while you're driving the car. Many people have told that they were able to get that command through this way even if their DPF was badly clogged. Please note that the coolant has to be over 75°C and other terms have to be fulfilled as well, when you're trying to force the regeneration process on.
Once the thermostat was replaced, the process went something like: Drive. Clear fault code. Reappeared after a few seconds. Clear fault code. Reappeared after a longer period (still seconds), repeat until: Clear code. Reappear after 50-60 seconds. After a final clear, it's been fine since.
Dean
07-17-2012, 03:57 PM
#245
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Hi.
Welcome to the forums and sorry to hear about your problems.
It is very possible that the last regeneration happened 15000 miles ago. I guess you have faulty thermostat(s), which will block the regeneration if the engine coolant never reaches the 75°C (and there are other required terms too).
Sorry can't point out any sources for the DIS, but the OBD2 cables can be found in eBay. The plug for the cable locates in a driver's footwell.
The dealer can send the forced regeneration command to the ECU as well, but it may not work if the DPF is badly clogged. Another thing that you could try (when you have the DIS + cable) is to send the regeneration command to the ECU again and again and again while you're driving the car. Many people have told that they were able to get that command through this way even if their DPF was badly clogged. Please note that the coolant has to be over 75°C and other terms have to be fulfilled as well, when you're trying to force the regeneration process on.
- Antti -
Welcome to the forums and sorry to hear about your problems.
It is very possible that the last regeneration happened 15000 miles ago. I guess you have faulty thermostat(s), which will block the regeneration if the engine coolant never reaches the 75°C (and there are other required terms too).
Sorry can't point out any sources for the DIS, but the OBD2 cables can be found in eBay. The plug for the cable locates in a driver's footwell.
The dealer can send the forced regeneration command to the ECU as well, but it may not work if the DPF is badly clogged. Another thing that you could try (when you have the DIS + cable) is to send the regeneration command to the ECU again and again and again while you're driving the car. Many people have told that they were able to get that command through this way even if their DPF was badly clogged. Please note that the coolant has to be over 75°C and other terms have to be fulfilled as well, when you're trying to force the regeneration process on.
- Antti -
Thanks dude, Will the dealers diag pick this thermostat problem up without them specficially checking for it? How much are they to replace and are they any DIY for it on the e60 520d? Also how can I be sure that the stat is faulty?
I am sorry for all the questions but my vehicle is high milliage at 108k It had a new DPF filter from the dealers for Ł1400 (Yes it fixed the issue) and its now two years on and done 160k with similar problem. Apart from the last 15k the rest has all been motorway milliage, It had a new turbo at 130k so I am really really confused to why I have the power issue surely the turbo cant go in 30k?, I have cleaned the egr, inlet manifold and put in a new map sensor. The next step would be DPF clean or replace the MAF sensor, even the dealers tec said they never found a issue on road test bt it takes 6 seconds to accelrate from 70mph to 80mph an on hills it doesnt pick up speed at all making overtaking in crawler lanes impossiable.
So am making one last desperate attempt to restore the power before i give up an just live it and see ford focuses and clios overtaking me when my foot is planted to the floor. Its a shame really apart from the high milliage the rest of the car is in mint condition.
I have made some enquariries with some ebay sellers waiting for reply regarding the cable and dis software.
07-17-2012, 04:00 PM
#246
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I fully agree - this got me out of a tight spot when my thermostat failed. Although I don't have DIS, so I was only able to clear the code which appears when it determines it's clogged.
Once the thermostat was replaced, the process went something like: Drive. Clear fault code. Reappeared after a few seconds. Clear fault code. Reappeared after a longer period (still seconds), repeat until: Clear code. Reappear after 50-60 seconds. After a final clear, it's been fine since.
Dean
Once the thermostat was replaced, the process went something like: Drive. Clear fault code. Reappeared after a few seconds. Clear fault code. Reappeared after a longer period (still seconds), repeat until: Clear code. Reappear after 50-60 seconds. After a final clear, it's been fine since.
Dean
07-18-2012, 02:41 AM
#247
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Thanks dude, Will the dealers diag pick this thermostat problem up without them specficially checking for it? How much are they to replace and are they any DIY for it on the e60 520d? Also how can I be sure that the stat is faulty?
I am sorry for all the questions but my vehicle is high milliage at 108k It had a new DPF filter from the dealers for Ł1400 (Yes it fixed the issue) and its now two years on and done 160k with similar problem. Apart from the last 15k the rest has all been motorway milliage, It had a new turbo at 130k so I am really really confused to why I have the power issue surely the turbo cant go in 30k?, I have cleaned the egr, inlet manifold and put in a new map sensor. The next step would be DPF clean or replace the MAF sensor, even the dealers tec said they never found a issue on road test bt it takes 6 seconds to accelrate from 70mph to 80mph an on hills it doesnt pick up speed at all making overtaking in crawler lanes impossiable.
So am making one last desperate attempt to restore the power before i give up an just live it and see ford focuses and clios overtaking me when my foot is planted to the floor. Its a shame really apart from the high milliage the rest of the car is in mint condition.
I have made some enquariries with some ebay sellers waiting for reply regarding the cable and dis software.
I am sorry for all the questions but my vehicle is high milliage at 108k It had a new DPF filter from the dealers for Ł1400 (Yes it fixed the issue) and its now two years on and done 160k with similar problem. Apart from the last 15k the rest has all been motorway milliage, It had a new turbo at 130k so I am really really confused to why I have the power issue surely the turbo cant go in 30k?, I have cleaned the egr, inlet manifold and put in a new map sensor. The next step would be DPF clean or replace the MAF sensor, even the dealers tec said they never found a issue on road test bt it takes 6 seconds to accelrate from 70mph to 80mph an on hills it doesnt pick up speed at all making overtaking in crawler lanes impossiable.
So am making one last desperate attempt to restore the power before i give up an just live it and see ford focuses and clios overtaking me when my foot is planted to the floor. Its a shame really apart from the high milliage the rest of the car is in mint condition.
I have made some enquariries with some ebay sellers waiting for reply regarding the cable and dis software.
A broken thermostat is unlikely possible to diagnose with computers. However, you can check something by yourself!
1) Start the car
2) Open the "hidden menu", go to folder 07.00 which shows the temperature of the engine coolant.
3) Start driving and monitor the temps. If the coolant temp never reaches the 75°C, one of the thermostats is likely broken.
4) In a case of a broken thermostat, you have to check or get it checked, if it is an EGR thermostat (part costs around 20?) or the main thermostat (around 40?). There's an heat exchanger in a automatic transmission car as well. This heat exchanger is actually a 3rd thermostat. It is located near the gearbox.
I'm not sure are there any DIYs for 520d here, but in a 530d, changing the EGR thermostat is a one hour job. I have never changed my main thermostat, but I guess it would take 2-3 hours.
The problems that you have had sound like this to me:
A broken thermostat(s) --> the original DPF clogged --> new DPF --> thermostat(s) still broken --> new DPF starts blocking up --> increased backpressure kills the turbo --> new turbo --> thermostat(s) still broken --> new DPF starts to be too clogged --> power issues.
Ok, of course I can't be sure the thermostat(s) is/are broken, but I'm pretty sure the problems are caused by the blocked up DPF.
- Antti -
09-21-2012, 06:17 AM
#249
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My Ride: E60 30d, E39 35i
Model Year: 2004, 2001
Engine: M57n
Guys, I'm noticing a lack of power after 100MPHish and wondering if its linked to the DPF...felt like it kind of just idled there with foot firmly planted (kind of like limp mode..but not quite I suppose). Its bit more noticeable in sports mode, but if I back off full throttle a bit, flick to std mode (auto box) it conts to creep speed upwards...just not as responsively as through other gears or as it should be? - Cars mapped to 279bhp, de flapped too - i think a fault that came up on diagnostics related to back pressure, but if cleared..runs fine for while and i think its come back. Around town, don't notice this issue...seems to be after 100? blocked DPF or regen not kicking in symts maybe?