DIY maintenance for the DPF...
04-05-2012, 06:19 AM
#233
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Hello everybody and greetings from Romania.
I own an E90 318D (09.2005 manufacture date).
I bought it as second hand a year ago and everything seemed fine those days. Fine running as powerful as it can be for those 122HP. The problem was last summer when my turbo axle broke and everything in my life changed since then.
I rebuild the turbo at a local workshop but there was some lack of power. From time to time some error for emissions were found. I used an ELM327 interface and found an EGT sensor dead. I had changed it with a similar one (part number was ok for 318D, 320D, 520D and others). I changed it and nothing good from my car, instead, there were exhaust gas leakage inside the car.
Already fall time when I found by mistake how to read coolant temps so I found that for 10C outside temp, my coolant couldn't go over 64C. Search on the internet and found that I need to change the two thermostats. One done by myself, the second one used by a mechanic (somehow a friend of mine). The temps were fine now, 88-91C after 15 mins of driving, the car felt stronger but still not as in it's good days. From time to time for few moments it felt better, but most of time still lacking of power.
I must to say that as a daily routine I drive 15km to work and another 15 back home, every time this takes 15-20 mins (city drive conditions alike).
After reading most of this thread and still being interested about the DPF problems, I decided to use my new toy, the K-Line BMW interface and DIS software. The readings from two days ago while testing DIS were: DPF clogged and the readouts:
31bar for idle (33bar maximum)
76bar for 2000RPM (75bar maximum)
280bar for 4000RPM (200bar maximum)
Started a forced regen but didn't have time to test it as supposed so I just got to work next morning.
Today, when coming back from work I decided to test it once again and was damned seeing the idle pressure for 75bar!!!
I started driving as recommended and from time to time (88C coolant, 240+C exhaust temp, 14L diesel in 1st tank, 0 in 2nd!!!) was showing me regen active then after some second, not active.
I found out that it was activating while not accelerating anymore but let the engine revving (taking the leg off from the acceleration pedal).
After 20min of active-not active I stopped to some place and seen "active" while engine was IDLE. I kept it like that for 20mins more. No white smoke, no sounds from the engine compartment nor from under the car but the coolant temps were like crazy, almost scary for me. 98C were the highest temps for coolant while 24C outside temp and sunny day.
I will post a picture while regenerating parked. As soon as the engine was revving, the regeneration was stopped and resumed when engine was idle.
So these are my findings until now.
I'm curious for those who made 1/4" -1/2" holes in the DPF, if the car was running fine even after some good mileage and if needed any ECU modifications. Also, some back pressure numbers would be welcome.
Also, I'm curious about the back pressure at idle for a healthy DPF.
I own an E90 318D (09.2005 manufacture date).
I bought it as second hand a year ago and everything seemed fine those days. Fine running as powerful as it can be for those 122HP. The problem was last summer when my turbo axle broke and everything in my life changed since then.
I rebuild the turbo at a local workshop but there was some lack of power. From time to time some error for emissions were found. I used an ELM327 interface and found an EGT sensor dead. I had changed it with a similar one (part number was ok for 318D, 320D, 520D and others). I changed it and nothing good from my car, instead, there were exhaust gas leakage inside the car.
Already fall time when I found by mistake how to read coolant temps so I found that for 10C outside temp, my coolant couldn't go over 64C. Search on the internet and found that I need to change the two thermostats. One done by myself, the second one used by a mechanic (somehow a friend of mine). The temps were fine now, 88-91C after 15 mins of driving, the car felt stronger but still not as in it's good days. From time to time for few moments it felt better, but most of time still lacking of power.
I must to say that as a daily routine I drive 15km to work and another 15 back home, every time this takes 15-20 mins (city drive conditions alike).
After reading most of this thread and still being interested about the DPF problems, I decided to use my new toy, the K-Line BMW interface and DIS software. The readings from two days ago while testing DIS were: DPF clogged and the readouts:
31bar for idle (33bar maximum)
76bar for 2000RPM (75bar maximum)
280bar for 4000RPM (200bar maximum)
Started a forced regen but didn't have time to test it as supposed so I just got to work next morning.
Today, when coming back from work I decided to test it once again and was damned seeing the idle pressure for 75bar!!!
I started driving as recommended and from time to time (88C coolant, 240+C exhaust temp, 14L diesel in 1st tank, 0 in 2nd!!!) was showing me regen active then after some second, not active.
I found out that it was activating while not accelerating anymore but let the engine revving (taking the leg off from the acceleration pedal).
After 20min of active-not active I stopped to some place and seen "active" while engine was IDLE. I kept it like that for 20mins more. No white smoke, no sounds from the engine compartment nor from under the car but the coolant temps were like crazy, almost scary for me. 98C were the highest temps for coolant while 24C outside temp and sunny day.
I will post a picture while regenerating parked. As soon as the engine was revving, the regeneration was stopped and resumed when engine was idle.
So these are my findings until now.
I'm curious for those who made 1/4" -1/2" holes in the DPF, if the car was running fine even after some good mileage and if needed any ECU modifications. Also, some back pressure numbers would be welcome.
Also, I'm curious about the back pressure at idle for a healthy DPF.
04-05-2012, 07:02 AM
#234
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Back to update the thread with my progress.
Quick Summary:
- Turbo back on and (almost)back to normal performance. Now my next problem - I have plenty of boost once I get over 2500 RPM, but very little if any below that. Very difficult to diagnose given it's a closed-loop system. The obvious culprits are:
1. Leaky hoses loosing boost pressure or vacuum
2. MAF(already cleaned)
3. MAP sensor - just replaced
4. Dump-valve/variable vanes in the turbo a problem in the re-conditioned turbo - the electronic actuator is moving freely on the car.
5. Blockage in the exhaust side - CAT/DPF/Boxes, causing too much back pressure and therefore limiting boost until the turbo eventually generates enough flow in the exhaust to force the issue???
Car driving well enough so that I can get by for a week or two(although it's like driving an old-fashioned petrol turbo - loads of turbo lag and constantly trying to keep the revs up!)
Anyone have any thoughts on the issue or how to go about debugging it? I know this is getting a bit off the DPF topic and I'll probably open another thread for it.
Thanks for the help so far and any input appreciated.
Colum
Quick Summary:
- Turbo back on and (almost)back to normal performance. Now my next problem - I have plenty of boost once I get over 2500 RPM, but very little if any below that. Very difficult to diagnose given it's a closed-loop system. The obvious culprits are:
1. Leaky hoses loosing boost pressure or vacuum
2. MAF(already cleaned)
3. MAP sensor - just replaced
4. Dump-valve/variable vanes in the turbo a problem in the re-conditioned turbo - the electronic actuator is moving freely on the car.
5. Blockage in the exhaust side - CAT/DPF/Boxes, causing too much back pressure and therefore limiting boost until the turbo eventually generates enough flow in the exhaust to force the issue???
Car driving well enough so that I can get by for a week or two(although it's like driving an old-fashioned petrol turbo - loads of turbo lag and constantly trying to keep the revs up!)
Anyone have any thoughts on the issue or how to go about debugging it? I know this is getting a bit off the DPF topic and I'll probably open another thread for it.
Thanks for the help so far and any input appreciated.
Colum
I also need to mention that before doing that regeneration today, I have deleted all the DDE error with INPA (don't know for now how to do it with DIS).
Hope I've helped you.
04-07-2012, 07:15 AM
#235
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My Ride: 535D Tourer - Pre LCI
Hi chaps.... quick one, I'm looking for the easiest way to remove the filter from my DPF box... this is mine fitted to my 535D http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...78&hg=18&fg=10
I was thinking after looking at the pics that i should be able to drill most of it out, then once i've gone down the middle, chip the rest away in clumps with a long screw driver... I dont have access to a welder and tbf, i've never welded
Thoughts?
I was thinking after looking at the pics that i should be able to drill most of it out, then once i've gone down the middle, chip the rest away in clumps with a long screw driver... I dont have access to a welder and tbf, i've never welded
Thoughts?
04-11-2012, 10:10 AM
#237
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My Ride: 535D Tourer - Pre LCI
Sorry i was thinking the most cost effective.... My car has just been mapped too, and so have sorted out the DPF cancel on the ECU once i've decided what im doing regards the dpf itself...
05-06-2012, 10:23 PM
#240
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This is how I do:
I start DIS, I chose the car and let it do the quick test. After that, if there is any problem with the DPF it will get an "x" for the DDE tests. Then it will prompt for the verification of the clogged DPF and gave some options to check it manually. The 4th option I guess is the one for testing backpressure. After you do the backpressure test, if the real value is higher than the max admisible value you will chose to start a forced regeneration. Of course, even if the backpressure is lower than the maximum admisible one, you are still asked about the values and you will response that the values excedded the admisible
I have done the cleaning of my cat+DPF (318d E90) with high pressure demineralised water and then used high air pressure to get the water out of it. At first, the water couldn't pass the cat to the DPF. In the end, the water could pass it by simple gravity force One hour continous cleaning. Now the car runs smoother, it feels better and the consumption lowered with more than 1L/100km. It feels like in the good old days now.
Regards, Alex
I start DIS, I chose the car and let it do the quick test. After that, if there is any problem with the DPF it will get an "x" for the DDE tests. Then it will prompt for the verification of the clogged DPF and gave some options to check it manually. The 4th option I guess is the one for testing backpressure. After you do the backpressure test, if the real value is higher than the max admisible value you will chose to start a forced regeneration. Of course, even if the backpressure is lower than the maximum admisible one, you are still asked about the values and you will response that the values excedded the admisible
I have done the cleaning of my cat+DPF (318d E90) with high pressure demineralised water and then used high air pressure to get the water out of it. At first, the water couldn't pass the cat to the DPF. In the end, the water could pass it by simple gravity force
One hour continous cleaning. Now the car runs smoother, it feels better and the consumption lowered with more than 1L/100km. It feels like in the good old days now.Regards, Alex