DIY maintenance for the DPF...
#181
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I've now driven about 120miles since cleaning the DPF and the performance is brilliant, But I have noticed that the tailpipe now has a thin layer of soot (there was nothing before, but there again very little gas made it out!). I was wondering if this was other peoples experience? I did not drill any holes etc through the DPF, so wondered if potentially (1) the metals in the DPF have reached the end of their life or (2) the pressure washing/carb cleaner destroyed the metals or created holes or (3) its normal!
Re the parts (for my E61 Dec 2006 build) :
B18.30.7.789.904 x 2 gasket @£6.21 each
B07.11.9.904.252 x 8 hex bolt @46p each
B07.11.9.904.295 x 8 hex nut (collared) @19p each
All plus VAT = £21.14
The nuts and bolts are a dull zinc colour and nothing like 'normal' shiny nuts and bolts. They are self locking (pain to tighten up!) but there is no plastic component - So I would recommend buying these.
Dave
#182
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I don't believe the chemicals would have harmed anything, I'd bet it's normal.
I use "normal" bolts and nuts now and I haven't got any problems opening them when I was re-rashing the DPF. They weren't loosened by themselves either.
- Antti -
I use "normal" bolts and nuts now and I haven't got any problems opening them when I was re-rashing the DPF. They weren't loosened by themselves either.
- Antti -
#183
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Hi All, and many thanks for this great post. Like others, I'm not crazy about paying 1500 yoyos out to BMW for the part.
I've a couple of quick questions.
I got the DPF off easily - and went at the filter with the various fluids and magic potions mentioned above. All now looks clear and when I blast the filter with the power washer it now comes out clean out the other side. Also when I fill the filter from one side, the flow rate can now keep up with the rate the water is arriving from the power washer. All good so far. My questions are:
- Is it essential to blow the water out with a leaf blower-type solution and/or bake the unit in the oven. I don't have anything I can hook up to blow through and my wife isn't very forthcoming in volunteering the use of the oven! I have it drying overnight over a radiator. Should this be enough? Ive tried blowing through it and there seems to be very little air coming through. This concerns me as if I reconect it like this will it cause the engine to backfire or other scarier prospects? People seem to have different experiences here - some people seem to just fill it with water and let it burn off/blow out, others are more cautious.
- When the job is complete, clean and dried out, should you be able to blow through the filter and get reasonable air flow out the other side?
Thanks again and any comments appreciated...
Colum
I've a couple of quick questions.
I got the DPF off easily - and went at the filter with the various fluids and magic potions mentioned above. All now looks clear and when I blast the filter with the power washer it now comes out clean out the other side. Also when I fill the filter from one side, the flow rate can now keep up with the rate the water is arriving from the power washer. All good so far. My questions are:
- Is it essential to blow the water out with a leaf blower-type solution and/or bake the unit in the oven. I don't have anything I can hook up to blow through and my wife isn't very forthcoming in volunteering the use of the oven! I have it drying overnight over a radiator. Should this be enough? Ive tried blowing through it and there seems to be very little air coming through. This concerns me as if I reconect it like this will it cause the engine to backfire or other scarier prospects? People seem to have different experiences here - some people seem to just fill it with water and let it burn off/blow out, others are more cautious.
- When the job is complete, clean and dried out, should you be able to blow through the filter and get reasonable air flow out the other side?
Thanks again and any comments appreciated...
Colum
#184
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Hi.
You don't have to blow the water out. That is completely unnecessary, I know it now as I've tried it. You probably get some vapor from the exhaust at first because the water inside will evaporate very fast.
- Antti -
ps. I just washed mine again yesterday and did some extra "cleaning" as well. Will post about it later.
You don't have to blow the water out. That is completely unnecessary, I know it now as I've tried it. You probably get some vapor from the exhaust at first because the water inside will evaporate very fast.
- Antti -
ps. I just washed mine again yesterday and did some extra "cleaning" as well. Will post about it later.
#185
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Ok, so I was having issues with my DPF again this week, when I noticed that the regeneration didn't start even if it was requested by DIS. I also noticed that rpms didn't climb easily after 3200rpms. No wonder, the whole fall has been only short city driving --> We all know the result; clogged DPF.
I've washed the DPF few times, and this was the fourth time. Last time I did it was this summer, as a precaution. But still, it got clogged pretty soon. My DPF must be pretty much in the end of its life soon.
My plan in the future (next spring probably) is to empty the DPF can, then install it back and get the car recoded to remove the DPF procedures and to gain some power. What I did yesterday was just a prelude to that plan.
And this is what I did:
1) Removed the DPF (15mins)
![](https://i469.photobucket.com/albums/rr53/Anzafin/Projektit/19112011257.jpg)
![](https://i469.photobucket.com/albums/rr53/Anzafin/Projektit/19112011273.jpg)
2) Used a "heavy cleanser" to open up the clogged filter (10mins)
![](https://i469.photobucket.com/albums/rr53/Anzafin/Projektit/19112011260.jpg)
![](https://i469.photobucket.com/albums/rr53/Anzafin/Projektit/19112011261.jpg)
![](https://i469.photobucket.com/albums/rr53/Anzafin/Projektit/19112011266.jpg)
3) Washed the DPF (20mins)
4) Reinstalled the DPF (15mins)
5) Then I sent a request for regeneration again to DDE (20mins - I have a slow laptop lol!)
![](https://i469.photobucket.com/albums/rr53/Anzafin/Projektit/19112011275.jpg)
Then I was good to go again. Regeneration started right after the terms fulfilled (exhaust gas temperature, coolant temperature).
I think I don't have to suffer the DPF that much this winter before I get it 100% deleted.
- Antti -
I've washed the DPF few times, and this was the fourth time. Last time I did it was this summer, as a precaution. But still, it got clogged pretty soon. My DPF must be pretty much in the end of its life soon.
My plan in the future (next spring probably) is to empty the DPF can, then install it back and get the car recoded to remove the DPF procedures and to gain some power. What I did yesterday was just a prelude to that plan.
And this is what I did:
1) Removed the DPF (15mins)
![](https://i469.photobucket.com/albums/rr53/Anzafin/Projektit/19112011257.jpg)
![](https://i469.photobucket.com/albums/rr53/Anzafin/Projektit/19112011273.jpg)
2) Used a "heavy cleanser" to open up the clogged filter (10mins)
![Laughing](https://5series.net/forums/images/smilies/imported/laughing.gif)
![](https://i469.photobucket.com/albums/rr53/Anzafin/Projektit/19112011260.jpg)
![](https://i469.photobucket.com/albums/rr53/Anzafin/Projektit/19112011261.jpg)
![](https://i469.photobucket.com/albums/rr53/Anzafin/Projektit/19112011266.jpg)
3) Washed the DPF (20mins)
4) Reinstalled the DPF (15mins)
5) Then I sent a request for regeneration again to DDE (20mins - I have a slow laptop lol!)
![](https://i469.photobucket.com/albums/rr53/Anzafin/Projektit/19112011275.jpg)
Then I was good to go again. Regeneration started right after the terms fulfilled (exhaust gas temperature, coolant temperature).
I think I don't have to suffer the DPF that much this winter before I get it 100% deleted.
- Antti -
#186
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Colin, even after I had baked mine in the oven for a few hours, when I put it back in the car the next day I still had plenty of steam coming out for the first mile - so the more water you leave in the more steam you will get (so probably best to do the initial starting and warm up away from busy traffic)
Dave
Dave
#188
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Hi.
You don't have to blow the water out. That is completely unnecessary, I know it now as I've tried it. You probably get some vapor from the exhaust at first because the water inside will evaporate very fast.
- Antti -
ps. I just washed mine again yesterday and did some extra "cleaning" as well. Will post about it later.
You don't have to blow the water out. That is completely unnecessary, I know it now as I've tried it. You probably get some vapor from the exhaust at first because the water inside will evaporate very fast.
- Antti -
ps. I just washed mine again yesterday and did some extra "cleaning" as well. Will post about it later.
Hi Anzafin, In the end, I decided to borrow the oven. I put the DPF in the oven - inside a turkey roasting bag! for an hour.
Made a huge difference. DPF is now completely clear - you can blow through it.
My mechanic just got back onto me a little confused about the next step.
It's all fitted and he reset the error codes using his Launch x431 unit.
He now thinks however that the car is still in limp home mode as it's not revving over 3k.
Is there any other step required like resetting the DPF values, soot levels in the ECU?
I know this has been asked before on the forum, but I'm not sure of the answer. It seems like it hasn't been an issue for most people.
Once we reset the errors again, should I take it for a long drive to force regeneration or is there any other advice?
Many thanks again.
#189
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Check the error codes again. Also, check all the vacuum hoses charged air tubes in the engine compartment.
Can you post a copy of the error codes here?
- Antti -
Can you post a copy of the error codes here?
- Antti -
#190
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Just picked up the car. So even after driving for 30km, the 480A and 481A codes are now cleared , but the 4530 code has either not cleared or has come back. I need to get the mechanic to check again which it is. I dont have a diagnostics setup myself, so I'm dependant on going back to my mechanic each time.
So, would this just be a case that at the time when the 4530 code was cleared, that the codes causing the error - 480/481 were still present and therefore when the car ran again, 4530 was re-triggered, and therefore if 4530 is cleared now that 480/481 is gone, then 4530 should not re-occur.
Has this happened to anyone else or does my logic make sense. I'll check the theory in a couple of days back at the mechanic.
All help appreciated...
Colum