mat59

Although you say you can't check the DPF with INPA, I presume you can reset the fault codes after cleaning the DPF and then check to see if they come back?

Anzafin

Yes.
All messages/faults will be shown under DDE, so they can be cleared.

- Antti -

Husky

Thanks for the reply, Antti!
Can you please tell me the reason for the need of recoding?

Anzafin

If the recoding is not done, there will be error codes about too low backpressure and the DPF regeneration will still happen without the DPF. Eventually the car may go into a limp mode. However, it doesn't matter if you drive a little after the removal, for example if you have to take a road trip to a coder. As far as I know, removing the DPF from the ECU is not a thing that can be easily done by yourself.

- Antti -

neil.d

Hi Antti.

Out of interest what temp does your coolant get up to where you are up ?

He in the UK we had a period of 0C or there abouts for a couple of weeks and my car could barely reach 70C on occasion whilst on the highway. Ive had new thermostats only 6 months ago.

The tempretures have warmed here to around 6C and it heats back up to 88C no problem at all.

From what Ive seen on my car the temps go up to around the 80C mark, stay there for a while then go up to the high 80's.

It may be my imagination but my car seems to be attempting regens but not completing them, Im wondering if our 'cold' snap has done the DPF no favours.

Thanks

Neil

Anzafin

Hello Neil!

My engine runs at 86-88°C at summer time, at 83-86°C when the weather is around 0°C, and 78-83°C when it's colder, like -20°C to -30°C.

Along the EGR thermostat and the main thermostat, there's a third one in the automatic transmission and it's called heat exchanger. Here, part #1.

Why do you believe your car attempted the regeneration?
Also, remember that the exhaust gases temperature has to be over 240°C as well as the engine coolant has to be over 75°C for ECU allowing the regeneration to start.

- Antti -

thamomo007

Hello !

I live in France (Metz) and outside it's approximately 0 degrés Celsius ...

My car (325d e90) has now around 100 000km, and i have change the 2 thermostats.

you can see somes pics here : thermostats change

Now after 10-12 kilometers the motor is a 75degrés and when the temps stabilize around 87 - 92 degrés.(no matters with driving style, it warms up the same way...)

So i recommand to change the 2 thermostat.

Anzafin > The third one that you show, is just an heat exchanger, and ther is no thermostat inside ?? It's just here to maintain the oil in the autogearbox around 90 degrés i think ??

Anzafin

Well, I don't have it because my car is a manual, but I've discussed about it with Finnish BMW enthusiasts and they have told me that changing the exchanger after the two thermostats they finally got the coolant temps up. I don't know much more about it.

- Antti -

neil.d

Thanks for your reply Antti.

Wow It gets properly cold up there. I find firm acceleration puts heat into the car quickest, cruising or deceleration (foot off throttle) really encourages the car to cool down.

What I am trying to describe is the regen commencing near the end of a journey, the familiar feeling as it does so - running 94C - throttle lag - dropping a gear - smell of plastic burning and extremely hot tail pipes - do this for say the last 5 mins of a journey. Then when I stop the car, restart later it doesn't recommends the regen. It may then do this a 2/3 times over a 2 week period. Just feels as though it isn't doing a full 30 minute regen cycle like it has done in the past.

Interesting about the gearbox heat exchanger, i shall research.

666bxg

Quick question

My E60 530d has 192,000km and iDrive is telling me the dpf needs replacing (?1500+)

What choices do I have? As I've never encountered dpf errors before will a clean / forced regen / resetting of errors work in my case?

If that doesn't work then I suppose my realistic option is a physical dpf delete and ecu recoding then?