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I wanted to keep the stock sidewall with the 19"s aka F-series but with the springs I wasn't sure it would work without scrubbing
I'm content with the 285/30/19s in back considering they are just for summer.
Coilovers would be the answer with 19s and larger tires for adjustment tweaking.
Winter in Wisconsin will need my stock 124 sidewalls for mental comfort.
Post those pics.
You are going to need coilovers to remedy that. I could be mistaken but springs would probably cause problems.
It probably rides really nice even with older struts. Mine are fine with 90K and H&Rs
But I must say I am jealous of the speedometer correction
You are going to need coilovers to remedy that. I could be mistaken but springs would probably cause problems.
It probably rides really nice even with older struts. Mine are fine with 90K and H&Rs
But I must say I am jealous of the speedometer correction
I believe the color is space gray metallic. I'll update post if I'm wrong.
love the sachs suspension and I intend on staying with sachs when I buy new struts.
Curious why you think springs would cause problem? I havent dug into researching coils too much yet.
This is a better picture of mine. Not much room with your 1/2" all around.
I am pretty sure somewhere buried in this thread is someone with your wheel fitment on H&Rs. Pretty sure it would be a rubbing deal.
You would have to roll and probably pull fenders
Wow, without slogging thru all 95 pages of this thread hoping to find an answer to a question I don't think will have been asked here (17" vs 18-20" I see mostly talked about here), I figure I'll ask.
I bought my E61 535xi with brand new 17" 225 series tires I want to keep, so I went from the original Style 243 Grandma wheels (ET43 and 17x7.5) to a Style 285 (ET34 and 17x8), which helped push the wheels further out and would allow for an eventual 245 tire.
Now I have the opportunity to buy some replica Style 166, also in a 17x8 to fit those tires, but they're ET20, so I'm concerned about wheel well clearance now with that extra ~0.55" push toward the edges.
Will an ET20 17x8 still fit with that 225 tire, and more importantly, if I wanted to get a wider 245 tire once the 225s wear out, will that 245 fit?
Wow, without slogging thru all 95 pages of this thread hoping to find an answer to a question I don't think will have been asked here (17" vs 18-20" I see mostly talked about here), I figure I'll ask.
I bought my E61 535xi with brand new 17" 225 series tires I want to keep, so I went from the original Style 243 Grandma wheels (ET43 and 17x7.5) to a Style 285 (ET34 and 17x8), which helped push the wheels further out and would allow for an eventual 245 tire.
Now I have the opportunity to buy some replica Style 166, also in a 17x8 to fit those tires, but they're ET20, so I'm concerned about wheel well clearance now with that extra ~0.55" push toward the edges.
Will an ET20 17x8 still fit with that 225 tire, and more importantly, if I wanted to get a wider 245 tire once the 225s wear out, will that 245 fit?
What are you saying is an "extra .55" push out" ? Remember that the wheel width increase is split 50/50 over the axis, meaning that if the ET were the same, the "push out" would only be 1/2 of the wider wheel .5" increase.
My math and experience with this sizing zone suggests it Probably Will work Guy above doesn't sound like he has actual experience with this sizing zone.
I have been using an 18x8.5" ET 29 for several years now and it also has an oversized tire 245/45-18. My car is not lowered, I am quite sure lowering would negate these results and cause rubbing.
Math: ET20 is 9mm wider offset than my et29. However, your 8" wheel is 12.5mm narrower. 12.5/2 = 6.2mm actual effective outer edge difference due to the width benefit being split over both halves of the wheel. So, end result is an et20 17x8 should sit exactly 2.8mm further out.
The 2.8mm will be no issue in the rear. It will be close during hard compression but the fender liner should stay clear.
Up front the 2.8mm... it's only going to matter if your tire is larger than mine and primarily in it's width at the shoulder. Of course in this case it's both tire numbers that will matter because the potential rub spot is in the front of the fender liner only when turning sharply enough such as a 90 degree turn into a driveway. This would usually be a 30 degree or so angle on the wheel which places the tire against the fender liner about 4-5" in from fender/bumper lip. That's if it touches at all. Mine do only on one side and only so briefly that over 120,000 miles it still only shows shiny scuffing, no actual wearing through.
Your tire selection would be key and it makes me wonder why you're sticking with 17" on this plan? I am a fan of more sidewall for various reasons but you would have a ton of choices in 18". Anyway, the tire section and tread width on an 8" is what you want to be looking at. Use my 245/45-18 for comparison. I'll look it up too if you give me a tire model planned.
I just looked up tire rack data for my tire 245/45-18 on 18x8.5 and winter set 18x8, and 18x8" stock size, 245/40-18 compared to the two sizes you mentioned 225/50-17 and a 245 version which would be a 245/45-17.
The 245/45-17 would be perfect on an 8" wheel and will definitely work considering it's size compared to what I'm using. Granted your car is not lowered.
Probably not without having to roll the fenders, especially with the 245 width. A site like www.willtheyfit.com might give you more insight.
I'd say stick with the 285's. FYI, Style 135 is very similar to the 166's and they come in an xi offset if you can find them.
Yeah, problem there is I want to keep the 17" wheel size and the 135 is an 18", which would require new tires. Plus I like the comfy ride on my 48yr old arse that the higher profile tires provide. I like the Style 285s, but those Style 166s I'm looking at are chrome and I think they'd look great on my Deep Sea Blue car.
Originally Posted by norsecarnut
What are you saying is an "extra .55" push out" ? Remember that the wheel width increase is split 50/50 over the axis, meaning that if the ET were the same, the "push out" would only be 1/2 of the wider wheel .5" increase.
Not sure you understood my initial post with all the extraneous info I shouldn't have posted about the original wheels. Just to clarify, there wouldn't be a wheel width increase, as I'm basically looking at still running the same size 17x8 wheel I have now, but offset would go from ET34 to ET20. That's where that extra 0.55" push toward the edges comes from.
Originally Posted by norsecarnut
I have been using an 18x8.5" ET 29 for several years now and it also has an oversized tire 245/45-18. My car is not lowered, I am quite sure lowering would negate these results and cause rubbing.
Math: ET20 is 9mm wider offset than my et29. However, your 8" wheel is 12.5mm narrower. 12.5/2 = 6.2mm actual effective outer edge difference due to the width benefit being split over both halves of the wheel. So, end result is an et20 17x8 should sit exactly 2.8mm further out.
The 2.8mm will be no issue in the rear. It will be close during hard compression but the fender liner should stay clear.
Up front the 2.8mm... it's only going to matter if your tire is larger than mine and primarily in it's width at the shoulder. Of course in this case it's both tire numbers that will matter because the potential rub spot is in the front of the fender liner only when turning sharply enough such as a 90 degree turn into a driveway. This would usually be a 30 degree or so angle on the wheel which places the tire against the fender liner about 4-5" in from fender/bumper lip. That's if it touches at all. Mine do only on one side and only so briefly that over 120,000 miles it still only shows shiny scuffing, no actual wearing through.
Your tire selection would be key and it makes me wonder why you're sticking with 17" on this plan? I am a fan of more sidewall for various reasons but you would have a ton of choices in 18". Anyway, the tire section and tread width on an 8" is what you want to be looking at. Use my 245/45-18 for comparison. I'll look it up too if you give me a tire model planned.
I like your math and that makes sense, but yeah, sounds like it'll be close. Honestly I'm both cheap, and old, so I don't want to go thru the hassle of swapping out to different diameter tires if I get larger wheels, then selling the almost new 17" tires I have now, plus I like the comfort of the 17" wheel/tire combo. Looks are secondary to comfort for my old butt now. I've been down that "looks before functionality" road too many times before and ended up disappointed every time.
Originally Posted by norsecarnut
I just looked up tire rack data for my tire 245/45-18 on 18x8.5 and winter set 18x8, and 18x8" stock size, 245/40-18 compared to the two sizes you mentioned 225/50-17 and a 245 version which would be a 245/45-17.
The 245/45-17 would be perfect on an 8" wheel and will definitely work considering it's size compared to what I'm using. Granted your car is not lowered.
Mine are 1" larger diameter which allows 1/2" more clearance for your plan.
Yeah, the 245 would work great on an 8" wheel, which is part of why I tossed the ugly original 7.5" grandma wheels, since anything above a 245 won't safely fit a 7.5" anyway. I am just not too sure about that ET20 wheel ensuring clearance everywhere, and in all conditions. I suppose I could always mount them and sell them later if they don't work out, but that's extra time and money to experiment. I really appreciate the time and effort you went thru with the calcs above. When all is said and done I'll take a look at them tonight and decide. If it comes down to it, I may just keep the Style 285s and have them powder coated a darker gunmetal gray, as I'm not a fan of that lighter argent color on most bmw wheels, especially on a DSB wagon. It's like wearing fluorescent shoes, it just takes away from everything else you're wearing.
08-24-2019, 06:28 AM
Guy above doesn't sound like he has actual experience with this sizing zone.