Theo

5.) Swirl Flaps are only relevant for Diesels and not restricted to the Touring model.

4.) Do you mean the rust around the window or the switch?

I'd add the diversity module within the clearly not waterproof rear spoiler.

In general you should:
- relocate or waterproof the electronics in the spare wheel well .
- remove the SureClog valves and clean the associated tubes.
- Make sure that you've got the reinforced hose for your air suspension compressor and its properly installed.
- Optionally waterproof the spoiler.

And then you'll have yourself an exceptional and trustworthy automobile.

mmitev

I thought that I needed the relay after a post of a member here, but I did not. My car is 2004 pre-LCI, I got a salvage compressor from an LCI 2007 car and it works with my old relay without problems more than a year now.

My local dealer did the job for 30 min and charged me exactly that much for it.

mmitev

Theo,
a few times now I notice that after rain water is coming out of my rear spoiler, between glass and the third stop light.
Does that mean that diversity module is at risk and I have to open and seal it immediately?
Is there a DIY somewhere (although I've opened it before and its quite easy..)?
Thanks

yeewiz

4) Switch. I've seen the switch mentioned many times, and there's a nice DIY for this. But I'm not familiar with the rust issue

re 1) is there a DIY on relocating/waterproofing the electronics?

ok, I'll add 5) Diversity module. Is there a DIY on waterproofing this?

and I'll add 6) Battery drainage issues although there doesn't seem to be common solution

mmitev

Found two useful threads on this.

See instructions on how to do it in the second post here:
https://5series.net/forums/topic/102...1#entry1218101

And a sort-of-DIY with pics here:
https://5series.net/forums/topic/930...rking-anymore/

And this is the SIB on the sealing of the module:
Diversity Module Sealing - Remote Control Malfunction or Radio Reception Problem.pdf

I will try this tomorrow, as although I have no issues yet, it seems that my spoiler is full of water after every rain.

Theo

Sorry for my late reply.

I don't think that water coming from under the spoiler is a problem in itself or indication thereof, the rear spoiler does not seem to be designed to be fully waterproof at all and if it was it sure is an engineering F*up of epic proportions. I believe that the intention was to only keep the centered box area wherein the module resides should be kept dry.
So when that is OK I'm sure lots of water will find their way between roof and spoiler and egress between window and spoiler.

I myself have the foam pads in place and plan to inspect the box once again after some months to verify their effectiveness. Another option I saw on a 525d where the owner used a seal bag and some waterproof yachting tape to encase the outer box. If either is performed correctly I'd guess you're pretty safe.

I haven't seen an actual DIY on waterproofing though you could interpret the SIB as one.
There are good DIY's on spoiler removal on the forums so that shouldn't be a problem, just be sure to attach the dismounted spoiler securely to for example the roof rails with a soft towel between spoiler and roof (only when the data cable is still attached).
The placement of the the foam pieces or DIY waterproofing speaks for itself after that.

mmitev

Just coming back from the garage.

Relieved to report that there is no trace of water in the black box which contains the white diversity module. It seems that the black box is pretty well sealed from water, there was just some dust inside.

And as Theo said, the spoiler is not meant to be waterproof at all, so it will gather water during rain.

The foam insultaion from the SIB is not meant to insulate from water, as it is not placed properly for that purpose. It is meant to exert extra pressure on the cap of the black box, so that it is kept tightly closed under all circumstances and therefore effectively sealed. It is possible though that the large horizontal foam piece is meant to stay in the way of water splashes coming from the rear wiper during heavy rain.

I used some noise insulation foam pieces to achieve the same effect as the ones in the SIB.

One last word of caution when you do this yourself:

Make sure you have adjusted the spoiler really well before tightening the bolts and closing the hatch. Then try to close it carefully and only then re-tighten the bolts.
This happened to me last time I opened the spoiler, to re-attach the water hose for the rear water jet: when putting the spoiler back on the car, I pushed it in towards the roof (or the shark fin) as much as it can go. Then I tightened the bolts. Then I closed the glass hatch and I heard how something is scraping. When I inspected the spoiler, I found that it was pushed in too much and basically overlapped with the roof. As a result, it had scraped some paint off the roof edge when I closed it. I had to adjust it again and touch-up the paint on the roof edge. Be careful not to repeat my mistake.

yeewiz

mmitev and Theo, just awesome guys. nicely done documenting the fixing/preventing/avoiding of diveristy module issues.

getting back to the numero 1 problem, the panorama roof: aside from removing the SureClog valves from the back tubes, are there DIYs on preventative measures to protect the electronics from overflows of the drain tubes?

mmitev

1. In some cases the roof leaks at the front end and water gets to the buttons just ahead of the rear-view mirror. I have seen a SIB here on how to isolate these electronics with foam pieces, and there is also a SIB on replacing the whole panorama roof, but that's not of interest for us I guess.

2. You can relocate the electronics out of the spare tyre well into the side compartment of the trunk - I have seen two DIYs for this done on sedans here in the forum.

3. You can retrofit a water drain valve to the spare tyre well, so that when water gets there, it can escape. AFAIK, the LCI cars have this. Not seen a DIY yet, but would be interested to do it at some point.

yeewiz

2. I'll check that out but moving the electronics just doesn't sound like fun and a good way to cause other electrical issues.

3. Gonna check out realoem.com for the parts involved. this actually sounds like the simplest and cleanest and most practical way.

I'll report back ...