mantraguy

I seem to have a similar problem all of a sudden. I have a 2007 530XiT (not sure which month it was made). I just noticed that while driving, as soon as I come to a complete stop, the tailgate glass latch opens. If I have the stereo turned off or down I can even hear the door locks doing funny things. As soon as I start moving again, the chime sounds and indicates that the trunk is not closed. Luckily I'm still under warranty, but seeing as I've only had the car for 4 months I'm not impressed! My 93 Honda never had a single problem... and now, with a 3-year old BMW that costs 3 times as much, I've got issues!

I'm already scheduled to go into the dealer next week for 'regular' servicing and oil so I'll have them look at this at the same time. Thankfully they're giving me a loaner car so if they end up taking a week to fix it, at least I'll have a car!

gav53

Hi.
Just had to register to thank you all for the posts regarding this problem.

I have a '54 plate 535d tourer with about 55,000 miles on it. The boot (both the main boot and the glass tailgate section) gets used a lot.
I started having problems about 12/18 months ago. The list of problems grew, culminating in the following issues:

- glass tailgate section would not open
- radio would not remember its channels, and would lose FM reception when the car was running
- key fob functions would not work (central locking / opening and locking car / boot opening)
- high centre brake light did not work (FYI this was an advisory item on my MOT last week...but it passed the MOT with this not working)

BMW diagnostics, and an independent garage failed to identify the source of the problem and I did not want a throw a lot of money at investigating it.

Having found your posts on saturday, I followed the instructions and all the above issues have now been fixed! Was not a short process though, - maybe took 4 / 5 hours.

I only looked at the wires in loom no. 3 as identified in hgulikers pdf document (the right hand side wiring leading "up" rather than down). There were five wires broken completely. I didn't use wire extensions but instead sripped back the wires and soldered them.


I had the issue of the glass tailgate not opening, so had to "fix" this individual wire (brown with a coloured stripe in my car) first to get it open in order to do the full fix properly.

The black F-king joints are a joke. I had real problems getting them off and ended up snapping the one off that I needed to look at. I intend to use a similar shrink-wrap solution to hgulikers.

Thanks again to all the contributors to this thread.

superconfort

Reader discretion advice, foreigner at keyboard...

Hello, now I've found that my car, after 5 months in the garage repairing one frontal colummn hit, emptied the battery (mechanics sometimes are not the cleverest people). After the following new battery install the remote didn't work and the glass lid didn't open. Now after I have read all your histories I ask:

Is it possible to be something about programming of the remote or the computer itself?

Is it possible that the wires broke while being in the repair shop?

I tried yesterday to open the glass lid manually and I realiced that it was impossible. I nearly kill my arm trying. What a fail design! I even tried to fix the wires in the hole of the speaker but it was very hard. I'm very big and I got tired of the position after 2 minutes...

Anyway my thougts are that the lid wire is broken and maybe the power or something of the remote module (that I think I read is in the spoiler of the glass lid) On the other hand IT WAS AFTER THE POWER SHRTAGE!!! I don't want to broke my hands working on a small place with lots of wires for nothing!

Yesterday when I inspected the wires (without taking off the black cover) they were straight and didn't bend when closing the tailgate...

Yes I tried to sync the remotes with the close open and so secuence. No way.

Any advice please...

Thanks for reading and understanding.

sinoks

how the heck do i open the glass tailghate to get to the loom without the lock working?
which cables do i need to short to actuate the button?
there are 4?

thanx

frost015

I have the same problem ... still waiting to see if someone out there can advise which cables should be powered up to release the tailgate glass ..

Have posted my pics under a different thread .. not sure how to post a link to this, but you will find it under ..

"How to Open Tailgate Window (with no power) Surely there must be a solution to this"

Let me know if you solve this !

Ian

superconfort

Search for the green and brown wire, if I remember well... One wire is to manage the lock and other for the button to work. One is in one harness and the other is in another harness.


Anyway, the way I did it is fine. Only have to pull from the wires on the outside and pull again from the speaker hole. Then you tie them outside the hole. You have to close the tailgate for the button to open the glass one.

If you find problems with that I can try to explain myself better.

(whereismyhighschoolenglishwhenineedit?)

Saludos y suerte!

gravity

Have the same problems with remote key lock, number plate lights, one rear fog light and one rear light.
E61 525DAT 2005. 80.000km

NavarroOne

There is no 13 on the schematic; perhaps the page has been updated since you posted a link to it? Anyway I take it you mean part no 10 on the refreshed page, that is to say part no 61319218995 "rear window key button with micro switch". I've just spent the past 3 hours following the pdf descriptions on how to disassemble the rear to get to the wires to check whether there were any tears. Having read this forum and seen how prevalent the problem apparently is, I was certain I would find a smoking gun! alas, all the wires looked perfect and the metal guides and all look reasonably clever to me. Nevertheless, I decided to replace the thin brown and brown/blue wires leading to the switch that releases the rear glass, as they might be broken inside the insulation, or so I thought. Afterwards I took the car to the car wash and when the machine was done, the rear glass popped open once again, just as I thought the problem was solved! So hence my next step will be to replace the switch as you have done. I'm a bit concerned about the description of how you removed the original switch. I'd think, using the schematic in the link above, that cover 3 should simply slide off and then bolt 4 unfastened for easy removal of the switch. If you did cut it off, was it then easy to install the new switch without further ado?

Henry's Dad

Will wait for you to post the results of changing the switch as I think I need to make the same change!

Thanks in advance

Chris

NavarroOne

heading to Germany next week where I should be able to pick up the switch fast and cheap and I'll be sure to post the results when done, in 8-10 days or so.