Lotus99

I thought I'd heard of people extending theirs so it wasn't as taut as before. There's also a kit I thought from BMW, I was curious about what it was... I posted about it here, though didn't get many responses:

https://5series.net/forums/e61-touri...-thing-128943/
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Mikethepanel

I don't think its the being taut that is the problem, its the fact that the wires are bent from about 90 degrees to straight every time the tailgate or glass is opened.
An idea that i had but didn't do was to fit a 6 inch long piece of "silicone wire" just through the conduit area

Lotus99

Did you click the "repair kit" link to see what it's about? I'm wondering if it's nothing more than new wires then? Not anything "improved"?

So it sounds like once fixed, it's just a matter of time again before they fail. It's like based on X times of opening and closing the hatch... Almost a wear and tear issue sadly...

Mikethepanel

I think your spot on with that!
But it does take years the first time(mine took 6 years) so even if it takes two years its a much cheaper fix that buying looms or taking it to bmw. It took me around 5 hours to strip the car, repair the wires and refit the car(i am in the motor trade) but even if someone payed me the £10 per hour i charge,£50 is a very cheap fix

Lotus99

This is a pic of what the "repair kit" is, to make it easy for others. Parts are about $200 per side it seems!

Someone else had said this about it (I just found it):

There is a repair kit available from BMW, which is basically a piece of cable harness. the original harness still has to be soldered, but whoever does it does not need to spend time on producing the new pieces of wire.
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I don't know if I'm inclined enough (or have enough time) to tear apart the rear and take apart the hinges... Seems like it might be out of my ability level. I've taken apart the pieces and looked inside the Diversity Module though, so at least if that craps out on me out of warranty, I should be able to do that at least!
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Lotus99

I also found this on a German forum (Google translated), along with the BMW repair manuals:

Overview of the function of each wire harnesses:

Is not the number of individual cables but the function. Right to Bottom (tailgate) has the following cables - rear lights tailgate right - license plate light - open button for tailgate - switch back window open - wiper motor + / - close tailgate switch inside (power liftgate) -

Right up (rear) - Plus rear window defroster / connector antenna diversity (ZV - Comfort Access, Comfort Access, radio reception) - switch back window open links down (tailgate) - Lock tailgate - lock rear window - 2x Most cable lock tailgate / rear window - Luggage compartment light tailgate - taillights left tailgate links up (rear window) - Mass Hechscheibenheizung - antenna cable ( Coax cable) - water hose washer

Right side:



Left side:


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tom_il

I think the fix is in the metal guides, they press the cables again the roof when the lid is closed.
The tension in the wires is intensional for them functioning. There is a spring if I remember correctly from rubber that puts the tension on the wires.
When the lid closed there is an excess of wire and this spring prevents the cables from tangling up.
Now the problem is that the end of the metal guides bends the cable 90° again the roof, there virtually no radius either at the of the metal guides. One can only bend a cable that many times like this before the insulation damages and it then brakes.
Fixing the wires one has to prevent making them shorter so the tension doesn't increase even more.
My fix was to shorten the end of the guide and making a curved exit so the wires have more and arn't pushed to much again the roof. Hope it makes sense what I am saying.
Doing nothing the problem will come back.

tmoore

The "fix" described above only lasted two days before the remote locks failed again. I have now taken my remote locking problem to a third BMW mechanic, Autobahn Automotive in Natick, Mass. In about 2 hours, he was able to diagnose that the problem was lack of power to the diversity antenna. He pulled the wires back through the speaker hole, identified the broken wire, and fixed it. He said this wire is part of the wire bundle that is the second bundle from the right as you look at the car from the rear. The locks work fine and so does the radio. Let's hope this time the fix lasts longer than it did the last time. It is doubtful I ever did need the new battery ($300) or the diversity antenna ($295) that I now have.

microbi

This was great help! Only way I could keep the rear glass closed was to lock the doors after I started the car = wife said she won't drive a car that has doors locked...safety reasons + was kind of annoying, specially when I forgot to do that....

Okey I didn't do it myself - I bought the switch (37 euro here oh well) from local bmw part dealer, went to good repair shop and they change it - about same price. BUT I got the idea here, found it that I might not need to re-wire all (that would cost A LOT...). I'm no mechanic or neither own right tools so it was easiest to do with "money". Then again I didn't have to pay to bwm dealer to "test and search" the problem .

So I kind of took the risk, repaired the cheap part - thought it's about 50/50 will it fix it or. So maybe I was just lucky (this time)

E60Sim

I've had a failing rear brake light (in the spoiler), so yesterday I followed the guide and fixed the broken cables. The battery was disconnected during the operation.

This morning when I started the car it said "high level of battery discharge" something I've never seen before... Could it be a low battery or just an error after I disconnected the battery ?