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facelift E60 LED lights installed!

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Old 05-07-2007, 09:56 AM
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Just for information the Turn light is a 12V 21W light. The idea of putting a hidden bulb is definately cheaper than finding a heavy duty heat shinked resistor. It fact I'd actually put a bulb holder like Maplin's L54AB and a smal 12V low wattage bulbs like BT84F instead. Best to put the lowest wattage bulb you can find.
Old 05-07-2007, 10:43 AM
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Thanks for the info bruce.
From a financial standpoint, sure the bulb is cheaper - but if the bulb goes at some stage then we have the problem of fast blinking leds again. The bulb holder is definately the best way to go here for ease of change if this solution is chosen. Anything else is a hassle.
I just like the resistor route more because it's a solid state implementation solution and combined with the long life led's it basically offers a fix and forget solution.

What do you think ?
Old 05-07-2007, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by andy545' post='421944' date='May 7 2007, 07:43 PM
Thanks for the info bruce.
From a financial standpoint, sure the bulb is cheaper - but if the bulb goes at some stage then we have the problem of fast blinking leds again. The bulb holder is definately the best way to go here for ease of change if this solution is chosen. Anything else is a hassle.
I just like the resistor route more because it's a solid state implementation solution and combined with the long life led's it basically offers a fix and forget solution.

What do you think ?

The iDrive will always warn you if the extra bulb you attach has blown. The problem you may encounter with the resistor solution is trying to find a place around the taillamp that you can attached the resistor as a heatsink. The last thing you need is the resistor to become so hot that it burns a hot into something else around the place. Ofcourse since this is only for the turn indicators it may be alright because they are not used all the time.
Old 05-07-2007, 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by bruce_miranda' post='421948' date='May 7 2007, 08:53 PM
Ofcourse since this is only for the turn indicators it may be alright because they are not used all the time.
Exactly, I don't think it will ever be an issue. We can always put the resistor just under the taillamp, on the metallic chassis of the car.
Old 05-07-2007, 11:59 AM
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I could probably make these modified retrofit cables with the resistors soldered for a small charge. Anyone interested can PM me. It will then become a truely plug and play option.
Old 05-07-2007, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by bruce_miranda' post='421972' date='May 7 2007, 09:59 PM
I could probably make these modified retrofit cables with the resistors soldered for a small charge. Anyone interested can PM me. It will then become a truely plug and play option.

sounds good !

Old 05-07-2007, 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by bruce_miranda' post='421972' date='May 7 2007, 04:59 PM
I could probably make these modified retrofit cables with the resistors soldered for a small charge. Anyone interested can PM me. It will then become a truely plug and play option.
It will be over 35 sets ...
Old 05-07-2007, 12:57 PM
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Alex if you or someone else in the EU can provide me with a good wholesale rate for the cables then I don't mind doing the 35+ sets. It'll probably be cheaper than getting these done via BMW in anycase. The cost will be simply for my labour and will exclude all parts (i.e. the cable and resistors) and shipping.

I'll find out how much these cables cost in the UK but I suspect it won't be cheap.
Old 05-07-2007, 01:13 PM
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How do we eliminate the strobing LED's when switching on..I take it that would be a recode?
Old 05-07-2007, 01:18 PM
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i think that might require a recode.
but from what i have heard...it is a cool effect to have.

Originally Posted by Spig' post='422011' date='May 7 2007, 04:13 PM
How do we eliminate the strobing LED's when switching on..I take it that would be a recode?


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