seanjordan20

For some reason I'm am tripping. I'm reading too many threads and thought this was started by someone else. Proceed. Lol

Matouti

Ahaha get some rest
I'll keep you up with the issue

Matouti

Hello guys

So new tires today's,

I went to the local shop for once, not the big tire company.

They found a rim out of round on the inside.
They put it on the rear with the new tire and now everything is fine on the steering and also when braking.

They also checked and redid the alignement that was out of range

Anyway much better Job for much less money.

Rendez vous tomorrow for the wheel repair and I hope everything will be fine.
They charge me 140€ for the job, Its my first time doing it I don't know, is it a good price in your opinions?

seanjordan20

I knew after the weight comments it had to be the wheel.

It depends if they are remanufacturing the wheel or just repairing. I pay $175 per wheel to have them remanufactured. That means they look brand new again. If they are just repairing for $140 it's cheaper to go to the local junk yard and grab you a wheel.

donpb

Yep, I commented back a ways that I had a bad wheel, it had a pock mark inside. I ended up buying a pristine set of wheels from a junk yard that cost the same price as 1 brand new wheel.

Matouti

Thanks for the feedback. Went to another shop they charged me 90 bucks for it.

By the way, should the control arms be totally sturdy or they should flex a bit if I twist it with my hand with the car jacked up ?

Anyways, thanks a lot for the help guys. I appreciate it

habbyguy

There is SOME flex on a new thrust arm, if you twist hard enough, but it is very subjective. If you can move it up and down at all (vertically at the big bushing) I'd say there's little doubt it's toast.

These are notorious for wearing out, so if the symptoms match and the original thrust arms / control arms have a lot of miles on them (particularly if it's in a combat zone like NYC or similar) I'd say swapping them is a wise move. Worst case, you get ahead of that bt of maintenance.

Matouti

Okay thanks I see.

However, I got my wobble back after few hundreds km. I took an appointment to a shop.

habbyguy

FWIW, I can add to the discussion about intermittent wobble now. ;-) On a recent 7,000 mile road trip, the car rolled nearly perfect most of the time, but every once in a while, I'd experience a little bit of wobble. It was hard to pin it down to the front or rear, and it would generally go away. The first indication that it was a front issue came after navigating an exit ramp "at speed" (not track day speed, but did generate some G-force). Immediately, I felt a significant wobble through the steering wheel - kind of like a loose tie rod or steering rack, or even loose wheel. But again, it kind of faded away as I drove the car. Fast-forward 3,000 more road miles, and the slight shake was back and getting worse.

I touched up the rear camber adjustment (which had, for some unknown reason gone from around 1.5° to close to 4°). I thought it would be a good idea to have the alignment checked out, and dropped the car off at a Goodyear shop (in a small town in Texas). They got it up on the rack and spun the wheels up to speed (something I'd never done, though I've let them spin as fast as idle speed would take them in 2nd gear). That's when they noticed play in the right front CV axle (my car is an XI). I should mention that this also apparently made the problem worse, since when I left the shop (after they ordered an axle) the car was shaking much worse than previously.

$700 later (ouch, but expected) I had a non-OEM axle in the car, and it is once again rolling well, though I can feel a very slight shake like an out-of-balance tire - unlikely since I got new Michelins just prior). So... I ordered three more "new" (rebuilt) axles when I got home, and will be swapping them out soon.

Thing is, I'd checked all the axles, and they all felt perfectly tight - both up/down and rotationally. Right before taking the car in to get the right front axle replaced, I was able to feel a very slight up/down looseness in the outer joint - sub-mm movement, but that's the only indication I had that anything was less than perfect. That is to say, as far as I can tell, there's really no way to discern a "slightly bad" CV axle until it's causing enough of a vibration to be a problem.

Matouti

These can cause people to loose a lot of sweat finding for the issue... Crazy!