E60I

I sprayed brake cleaner on the outside of crankshaft sensor and had a "puddle" of fluid on the outside for a few seconds. I had to use a towel to soak it up! Could that have damaged the sensor?

Last night on my 5th attempt to start the car, the dash board did indicate the battery was low. I am charging the battery right now at 12 amps for quicker charge.

If any of the oil separator hoses are not properly connected, can that cause my car engine from running? Is it possible to go underneath the car to tighten the bottom part of the return pipe?

Thank you for helping a novice out!

QUOTE=pcy;1524855]Oil Separator - after installing the oil separator, oil doesn't need to flow-thru it for the car to start. Nothing else needs to be done after installing new oil separator.

Since the diagnostic code points to water pump, go under the car and check the electrical connector to the water pump. Remove the connector, spray electrical contact cleaner and reconnect - fully insert the connector until it clicks.

Crankshaft position sensor is right below the starter. While replacing the starter, you MAY HAVE either disconnected the connector to the crankshaft sensor.

Can you double-check the connector on the throttle actuator?

While trying these various things and trying to start, the battery may be getting weak. If you have a battery charger, connect that charger.[/QUOTE]

pcy

I don't think cleaning the CPS connector with brake fluid can damage it.

About tightening the return hose... Here is the view of the return hose connection from the bottom when standing behind the drivers side front wheel and pointing the camera towards the steering linkage. You will need to remove the long plastic underbody shield.

E60I

Here is what registered on INPA. Can anyone tell me what I have to fix? I'll be using google translate in few minutes.

The car sounds so strong each time I start it. Unfortunately, it can stay on for about 3 seconds.

Thanks,

Daniel

pcy

29D0 seems to be an error on Cylinder 4 (spark plug or coil or the connector itself is not connected)
(Since the error is only on single cylinder, I am not leaning towards vanos solenoids or camshaft sensors)

2E84 is an error related to water pump electronics.

If I were you, I'd erase the codes and check if they come back. Check the connector on the #4 ignition coil (cylinder closest to the bumper is #1 and the cylinder closest to the firewall is #6).

If the errors come back after erasing them... for the error on cylinder4, swap the spark plug and coil to some other cylinder and see if the error 'migrates' to the new cylinder.

Are you saying that the engine DOES START and stays on for 3 seconds and dies?

E60I

Hi Pcy,

Yes, the engine does start and stay on for 3 seconds (or less) and dies. I tried stepping on the gas to force it to stay longer, but that did not work.

Regarding to cylinder 4 misfire issue, I have had that problem for over 6 months already (I think it's non related to the problem I am having now). Code 29D0 is guarantee to pop up on every cold starts if I don't step on the gas to keep the RPM at 1000 during the first two minutes. I think it's happening because I did not do a good job at insulating two of the three electrical wires that connect to the ignition coil harness. The insulator of those three wires broke and shorted because I think I twisted it back and forth to hard when I tried to remove it from the ignition coil. Due to the high temperature of the engine, heat shrink-tubing seem to work best (but not good enough to completely fix the problem) because they can't fall off or melt like electrical tapes.

Anyways, do you by any chance have pictures of how the hoses and wires should be connected to the intake manifold and throttle body? Do you think that could be the source of my problem? Or can the water pump problem actually causes the engine from running any longer than 3 seconds?

I will take your advice and crawl under the car to check the water pump connector tomorrow! Right now, my arms and fingers are so sore from working on this car since yesterday.

Again, thanks for helping me out!!!

pcy

I understand your frustration.

Before disconnecting the wires that were connected behind the manifold and oil separator, I drew a diagram and I reconnected everything according to that diagram. I don't think I took the pictures of those wires. I will look for related pictures.

Check the connector on the water pump and we can go from there...
In the morning, can you take few pictures of the manifold area and post? Can you confirm the throttle actuator connection is good?

E60I

Pcy,

Please open the attachment and look at #1 (blue arrow) and #2 (red arrow). By any chance if you have better pictures for them? I wonder if these are the ones I could have missed.

Does picture #1 have four electrical connectors (all look alike)? If so, can you confirm if the top connector belongs to the connector for the connecting line (see attachment for the oil separator assembly)? I wonder if the engine can act up if these four connectors are mixed up?

E60I

Pcy,

Please open the attachment and tell me what that is (red arrow). Does it have another end that goes somewhere?

pcy

Rear of the intake manifold looks slightly different (rear DISA valve area). Red arrow on the second picture shows the connector. I put a sticky note on the connector with scotch tape on it to remind me which wire goes there.

There are 4 connectors on the oil separator. One wire comes from the oil separator itself, second one goes to the harness bundle, 3rd and 4th ones connect to the oil separator hoses.


There is a thin hose that connects from above the intake manifold to the the intake elbow (just before throttlebody). Did you connect that?

pcy

Here is the picture of the thin hose I was referring to...