E60I

Pcy,

I think this could be the answer to my car trouble!

Yesterday I put everything together (3rd time!) and was ready to have the BMW dealer tow the car to their shop. I gave up because I could not disconnect the new hose from the valve cover with my scratched up arm, sore wrist and back.

Thanks to you, I think my trouble is over!!!

PS: I will rest up today and start/finish the project as soon as I can get someone to drive me to the store to buy the hose grip plier for the top hose. I don't want to break the new hose and waste any more time.
3 Piece Long Reach Hose Grip Pliers

Thank you! thank you!! thank you!!!

I'll let you know the update by tomorrow for sure!!!

pcy

While I was ready to disconnect those wires, I realized all 4 of those wires looked exactly alike, so, I labeled them before disconnecting them. While the connectors may look alike, I think it does make a difference where each one of them is connected.

Let's hope that is the root cause of the problem. Otherwise, I can't understand why car won't stay running with everything else buttoned-up properly.

On the bright side, now you know a lot about your car :-)

E60I

Once I get the car running again, I think I am going to replace my 82,000 miles water pump and thermostat. Which do you think is easier to do, the water pump assembly or this intake manifold/starter project?

pcy

Water pump + thermostat replacement is not that bad... it's just that you will be laying on your back and coolant drips in your face while trying to loosen/remove the hoses that are stuck on the water pump and thermostat. Imagine how fun that is... :-)

E60I

Hi Pcy,

I edited the labels for the hoses to specify each one, can you please confirm and seal the approval if they are correct?

I don't want other people to have to open the intake manifold three or four times to get it right.

Thanks!

pcy

Based on what I remember as well as what I see in the pictures I had taken,
the labels you wrote in that picture are correct.

zgilbert

Oh my E60!! You have had a little trouble! Did rerouting the connectors solve the issue??? I'll try and keep a window open for the forum today so I can keep up....

E60I

To re-route the connectors from the back of the intake manifold, I might have to remove the intake manifold again. I will try to see if I can use a tiny flat precision screw driver to pry and pull out three of the four connectors first.

The thought of removing or breaking the hard plastic hoses to get visual and physical access scares and bores me at the same time.

I need luck, small arm and hand; or a mechanic who's willing to travel.

zgilbert

Careful with those hoses, if they do break your car will have the same issue as you describe. It will start and stop due to un-metered air. Same can be said if the hoses are reversed(oil pan/valve cover).

Kind of start RPMS will bump and then it will quit. If you do pull the intake again, make sure your hose routing is correct between the Oil Pan, and the Valve Cover.

If the wiring is correct, and the hose routing is correct, then the car should operate regardless of the codes that it's giving.

My thinking is that the codes you're getting are being thrown because the engine doesn't run long enough for the PCM to complete it's initial diagnostic check of systems.

E60I

Okay guys, I checked the four electrical connections in the back of the intake manifold and they appear to be in the right order.

The electrical connector that goes to the harness is definitely in the right place (at the bottom).

The electrical connectors for the two hoses (between the oil separator and harness) can't be determined for sure because they are hidden in the dark. I can't imagine if it can affect my car engine to run since they both serve for the same function.

Again, the car engine cranks strongly for a second but it does not run!!!

Do you think the fuel pump can be the cause of this crank but no engine running probem? How can I test the fuel pump to see if it works or not?

Thanks!