zgilbert

Gotcha!

E60I

Okay, the starter is finally installed and the longer of the two starter bolts was finally removed with a different 11mm 12 point box end wrench. The E14 "RATCHETING" wrench I ordered did not work because the wrench head was "too thick" to fit into the limited space "around" the bolt.

Other parts from www.bmwmercedespart.com should arrive today. Hopefully, I can get everything installed and running soon!

As for the valvetronic gasket replacement, can someone with prior experiences confirm whether it's safe to simply remove the five screws and pull it out? Other then turning the car power on without starting the car several times to let the valvetronic resets itself, are there other precautions I should be aware of?

Thank you for your help!!!

pcy

That valvetronic motor on my car [06 530i with N52B30 engine) looks slightly different. There are only 3 bolts holding that motor. Before removing those screws, that motor needs to be put in service mode. Disconnect the electrical connector, there is a small hole in the motor housing next to the connector, use appropriate size allen wrench and turn clock-wise until resistence is felt. Then remove those bolts holding the motor, then use the allen wrench and turn anti-clockwise and the motor comes out.

Installation is reverse.

E60I

Wow, you are truly a pro. I think the picture (got it from one of zgilbert's links) that I posted was from an N52 engine of an E90. I didn't realize it until you mentioned it. I am glad I confirmed and asked questions (even stupid ones).

Much appreciated, sir!!!

Have a great day, my friend!

pcy

Glad I could help as others have helped me.

The two screws you see (in the picture I posted) are easy to remove. 3rd screw is hidden and requires some finesse to remove because there is little room under that motor for you to fit the ratchet. Use the smallest ratchet you have with an extension. When you try to remove that bolt on the bottom you will understand what I am saying.

E60I

Pcy,

Just curious, when I installed the starter, I noticed the fly wheel (the gear wheel that contacts with the starter's ) has a rusty color. Is that normal? When I try to turn it, it did not move. Can it be turned by hand? I hope my engine is not locked up. And yes, I do often change my oil every 5,000 to 8,000 miles.

My problem is similar to this guy's: https://5series.net/forums/e60-discu...-start-134204/

I hope a new starter will also fix my problem.

I am still waiting for the oil separator, gaskets and hoses to arrive...

pcy

Rust color on the flywheel shouldn't be a concern. You won't be able to turn the flywheel by hand; it's connected to the crankshaft.

When you receive the parts, install everything and double-check all connections. good luck.

E60I

Pcy or anyone,

After replacement of a new starter, oil separator, connecting line, return pipe and vent hose, I turned the key to the start position and all the engine does is turn over for a second and shuts off. Three attempts were made and I got the same result. Why is the engine not running continuously like normal?

Do I need to do anything extra to get the engine running after I replaced the starter and oil separator parts? How many times do I need to crank the engine to let the oil flow through the oil separator and related parts?

All the parts (oil separators, connecting line, return pipe, vent hose) are plug and play, right? Other than installing them, do I need to unplug or do anything else on those new parts?

I ran it through the code reader and it says 2E84 (Electrical coolant pump, communication). Does any of the wires or hoses that I disconnect to remove the starter and intake manifold have anything to do with the electrical coolant pump? Can a failed coolant pump prevent the engine from running?

Thank you in advance for your help!

E60I

Hi Pcy or anyone who can relate,

I checked all the connections as best I could, and the engine still fails to run. It cranks (at least we know the starter is fixed), but won't run on cold starts.

Please confirm with me if you can. In the back of the manifold, there is a black box with four electrical connectors. From that box, here is what I have connected:

1st connector (top one) = Connects to the wire for the connection line (11157522931)

2nd Connector = Connects to the wire for the return pipe ( part #11157567801)

3rd Connector = Another similar plug (?) to the other three electrical connectors

4th Connector (very bottom) = Connects to the electrical wire of the oil separator.

What could I be missing? What do you suggest I should do?

Thanks!

pcy

Oil Separator - after installing the oil separator, oil doesn't need to flow-thru it for the car to start. Nothing else needs to be done after installing new oil separator.

Since the diagnostic code points to water pump, go under the car and check the electrical connector to the water pump. Remove the connector, spray electrical contact cleaner and reconnect - fully insert the connector until it clicks.

Crankshaft position sensor is right below the starter. While replacing the starter, you MAY HAVE either disconnected the connector to the crankshaft sensor.

Can you double-check the connector on the throttle actuator?

While trying these various things and trying to start, the battery may be getting weak. If you have a battery charger, connect that charger.