Scary thing happened last night
08-31-2009, 06:07 PM
#31
Senior Members
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Long Island NY
Posts: 865
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ok so i left the car at the dealer. I get the call, SA says that the BST cable that connects to the negative battery terminal is messed up and needs to be replaced. He said that is the probable cause for the car to shutdown and is definitely the cause for my passenger restraint failure. Stealer is charging me $700. 4 hrs of labor. Sounds a bit ridiculous to me. What do you guys suggest?
08-31-2009, 06:39 PM
#32
Senior Members
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Long Island NY
Posts: 865
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
does anyone know what is the exact purpose of the BST cable. Does it have anything to do with the car shutting off all of a sudden. I dont wanna cash up 700 just to remove the passenger restraint fault.
08-31-2009, 06:51 PM
#33
Contributors
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Hong Kong
Posts: 21,274
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My Ride: Mini Cooper
Originally Posted by aresh' post='994354' date='Sep 1 2009, 10:07 AM
ok so i left the car at the dealer. I get the call, SA says that the BST cable that connects to the negative battery terminal is messed up and needs to be replaced. He said that is the probable cause for the car to shutdown and is definitely the cause for my passenger restraint failure. Stealer is charging me $700. 4 hrs of labor. Sounds a bit ridiculous to me. What do you guys suggest?
if not, don't let them change the parts at there place, they will not refund the part that they have change. They will just try and find other part to change.
Just buy the parts from BMW parts department and take it to your local shop to replace.
My friend also change this to fix the alarm going off on it own but did not work.
it cost him about $320us and not fixed.
08-31-2009, 09:11 PM
#34
Contributors
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 801
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by aresh' post='994354' date='Aug 31 2009, 10:07 PM
ok so i left the car at the dealer. I get the call, SA says that the BST cable that connects to the negative battery terminal is messed up and needs to be replaced. He said that is the probable cause for the car to shutdown and is definitely the cause for my passenger restraint failure. Stealer is charging me $700. 4 hrs of labor. Sounds a bit ridiculous to me. What do you guys suggest?
not sure if the bst cable is the same as the ibs, but the ibs connects to the negative side: #1 http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?mo...;fg=10&hl=3
in case you need to replace the wire for pass airbag: #1 http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?mo...;fg=10&hl=5
good luck
08-31-2009, 10:37 PM
#35
Senior Members
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Portland, Oregon, USA
Posts: 664
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My Ride: 2006 550i, 1984 Mercedes Gelandewagen
Originally Posted by aresh' post='994399' date='Aug 31 2009, 07:39 PM
does anyone know what is the exact purpose of the BST cable. Does it have anything to do with the car shutting off all of a sudden. I dont wanna cash up 700 just to remove the passenger restraint fault.
I find $700 _way_ too high for a repair like that.
It takes about 90 seconds to get to the battery. What might have happened is that the whole harness has gone bad - and getting to all the places where it goes might be an all day event.
09-01-2009, 04:05 PM
#36
Senior Members
Well it's definately electrical. My guess is that it's not the battery. It MAY be a connection to the battery. It shut off and came back on a few moments later. I don't believe it to be the alternator.
I was driving in a parking lot and my car gave error "electical failure" or something and then said "it is not possible to drive" So I pulled over turned off car, turned on and no problems. Kept driving.
A week later i went to get in my car, it unlock and when i went to turn the key over EVERYHTING went dead as soon as i put the key in. So i get out and find that i didnt tighten the battery clamp +. So i did that and all has been good. I did not tighten it down properly after doing Nav retrofit.
The point is, When the car is started it uses the battery then switches to the alternator. So if the battery is the problem I dont think your car will have shut off like that unless there is + positive wire touching the ground somewhere which sends a shock through the system. So ask yourself what electrical mods do you have and has anythign changed recently?
Check your positives and grounds on all of those components. Vibrations also have an effect on their movement so keep that in mind, make sure they're tight and far away from each other as possible.
Good luck
I was driving in a parking lot and my car gave error "electical failure" or something and then said "it is not possible to drive" So I pulled over turned off car, turned on and no problems. Kept driving.
A week later i went to get in my car, it unlock and when i went to turn the key over EVERYHTING went dead as soon as i put the key in. So i get out and find that i didnt tighten the battery clamp +. So i did that and all has been good. I did not tighten it down properly after doing Nav retrofit.
The point is, When the car is started it uses the battery then switches to the alternator. So if the battery is the problem I dont think your car will have shut off like that unless there is + positive wire touching the ground somewhere which sends a shock through the system. So ask yourself what electrical mods do you have and has anythign changed recently?
Check your positives and grounds on all of those components. Vibrations also have an effect on their movement so keep that in mind, make sure they're tight and far away from each other as possible.
Good luck
09-01-2009, 04:10 PM
#37
Senior Members
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Long Island NY
Posts: 865
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by unknown' post='994561' date='Sep 1 2009, 01:11 AM
since they told you what the problem might be, you should try to replace yourself if youre handy and save $400...
not sure if the bst cable is the same as the ibs, but the ibs connects to the negative side: #1 http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?mo...;fg=10&hl=3
in case you need to replace the wire for pass airbag: #1 http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?mo...;fg=10&hl=5
good luck
not sure if the bst cable is the same as the ibs, but the ibs connects to the negative side: #1 http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?mo...;fg=10&hl=3
in case you need to replace the wire for pass airbag: #1 http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?mo...;fg=10&hl=5
good luck
yes it is the IBS cable
09-01-2009, 04:14 PM
#38
Senior Members
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Long Island NY
Posts: 865
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by refaie1' post='995330' date='Sep 1 2009, 08:05 PM
Well it's definately electrical. My guess is that it's not the battery. It MAY be a connection to the battery. It shut off and came back on a few moments later. I don't believe it to be the alternator.
I was driving in a parking lot and my car gave error "electical failure" or something and then said "it is not possible to drive" So I pulled over turned off car, turned on and no problems. Kept driving.
A week later i went to get in my car, it unlock and when i went to turn the key over EVERYHTING went dead as soon as i put the key in. So i get out and find that i didnt tighten the battery clamp +. So i did that and all has been good. I did not tighten it down properly after doing Nav retrofit.
The point is, When the car is started it uses the battery then switches to the alternator. So if the battery is the problem I dont think your car will have shut off like that unless there is + positive wire touching the ground somewhere which sends a shock through the system. So ask yourself what electrical mods do you have and has anythign changed recently?
Check your positives and grounds on all of those components. Vibrations also have an effect on their movement so keep that in mind, make sure they're tight and far away from each other as possible.
Good luck
I was driving in a parking lot and my car gave error "electical failure" or something and then said "it is not possible to drive" So I pulled over turned off car, turned on and no problems. Kept driving.
A week later i went to get in my car, it unlock and when i went to turn the key over EVERYHTING went dead as soon as i put the key in. So i get out and find that i didnt tighten the battery clamp +. So i did that and all has been good. I did not tighten it down properly after doing Nav retrofit.
The point is, When the car is started it uses the battery then switches to the alternator. So if the battery is the problem I dont think your car will have shut off like that unless there is + positive wire touching the ground somewhere which sends a shock through the system. So ask yourself what electrical mods do you have and has anythign changed recently?
Check your positives and grounds on all of those components. Vibrations also have an effect on their movement so keep that in mind, make sure they're tight and far away from each other as possible.
Good luck
Well i got the car checked out and surely is not the alternator or battery. So that i know is ok. I haven't changed anything, my amp has been connected to the car for months before i got this issue appearing. I definitely think that there is a grounding issue like you have mentioned. I will check the wires to see if they are tight and secure.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post