rough idle when pulling up to stop lights
True...there are a lot of errors which will not throw lights. i find some when i diagnose. I would definitley check the MAFS and basic cheap maintenance first. Sparks plugs, air filter, for vaccum leaks etc. I change spark plugs about every 30-40K....you can see some DIY when I changed them at 20K when doing my DISA....not a pretty site.
When riding the brake to a stop light, the MPG should not drop to 13 MGP with the RPM bouncing between 500-800 RPMs. The car idles fine at a complete stop. Even if the automatic transmission is downshifting as the car approaches a stop, with the foot on the brake, this should not cause the MPG to decrease. Although it could be transmission related. But putting the car in neutral and gliding to a stop should not cause dancing needles.
I called the dealer to setup an appointment and the advisor blamed it on bad gasoline. I only use 91 octane from a reputable place (Conoco). I don't believe it is bad fuel. None of our other cars have ever had a problem with the fuel in our area.
I will check the MAF sensor and air filter. The car only has 32k miles. If I can't find anything, I'll take it to the dealer.
I called the dealer to setup an appointment and the advisor blamed it on bad gasoline. I only use 91 octane from a reputable place (Conoco). I don't believe it is bad fuel. None of our other cars have ever had a problem with the fuel in our area.
I will check the MAF sensor and air filter. The car only has 32k miles. If I can't find anything, I'll take it to the dealer.
When riding the brake to a stop light, the MPG should not drop to 13 MGP with the RPM bouncing between 500-800 RPMs. The car idles fine at a complete stop. Even if the automatic transmission is downshifting as the car approaches a stop, with the foot on the brake, this should not cause the MPG to increase. Although it could be transmission related. But putting the car in neutral and gliding to a stop should not cause dancing needles.
I called the dealer to setup an appointment and the advisor blamed it on bad gasoline. I only use 91 octane from a reputable place (Conoco). I don't believe it is bad fuel. None of our other cars have ever had a problem with the fuel in our area.
I will check the MAF sensor and air filter. The car only has 32k miles. If I can't find anything, I'll take it to the dealer.
I called the dealer to setup an appointment and the advisor blamed it on bad gasoline. I only use 91 octane from a reputable place (Conoco). I don't believe it is bad fuel. None of our other cars have ever had a problem with the fuel in our area.
I will check the MAF sensor and air filter. The car only has 32k miles. If I can't find anything, I'll take it to the dealer.
I think I figured out the mystery behind the MPG needle jump while braking for a stop light. While braking and the speed drops to about 20 mph, the MPG needle suddenly sweeps over to 12 MPG. I believe it is due to the automatic transmission. I suspect the torque converter "locks up" at speeds greater than 20 mph to increase fuel economy. When the automatic transmission is not in "lock-up" mode, which I suspect is speeds of 0 - 20 MPH, the built in slippage that allows smooth starts, stops, and shifts, decreases fuel economy. So when I slow down for a stop light and the speed drops to 20 MPH, the torque converter decouples out of lock-up mode and I get less fuel consumption. This shows up as a bump on the mpg needle and sometimes the RPM needle bounces.
Since my first three BMWs were manual transmission, this torque converter and "lock-up" feature are new to me. And since most other cars do not have an instant analog MPG display, we don't notice when the transmission changes in and out of lock-up mode.
Since my first three BMWs were manual transmission, this torque converter and "lock-up" feature are new to me. And since most other cars do not have an instant analog MPG display, we don't notice when the transmission changes in and out of lock-up mode.
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Apr 8, 2015 06:08 AM



