syrousd

Sounds like you have issues with the FPGA in the control unit. You need to plug to the car and run complete diagnostics. Unfortunately BMW cluster is controlled by the control unit and it thinks it is operating normally but the display tells a different story! The logic in the display is translating the code incorrectly. There is programming command you can re-load in the cluster. Let me ask you this have you done any changes to your cluster such a V for Velocity and so on? This happens quiet often during reprogramming!

I had that issue and had to replace the cluster. There is another way but you have to be careful. You can connect a 9V battery to the CPU behind the cluster and let it cycle through the code. I wouldn't recommend it if you haven't done it before>

Hope this helped a little:

cmyachtie

Been attempting to isolate the cause of this and taken some voltage readings and noticed that the instrument cluster makes funny clicking noises and gauges move about even without the key inserted in the ignition and when the key is tuned either to pos. 1 or 2 without starting the engine the cluster will light up repeatedly and "reboot" itself numerous times it is worse worse when the ambient temp. is colder. Once car heats up after about 30 mins or so it rarely happens.

Timing is erratic, no pattern whatsoever, sometimes it repeats immediately and other times it will take several mins. before it starts over again.

Have replaced K30 relay and disconnected the IBS, voltage readings seem OK to me, fluctuating between11.88 and 12.05 volts and when engine running hovering between 13.5 and 14.2 volts.

What does concern me though is the fluctuations don't know if that is caused by something some relay perhaps cycling, I would expect the voltage to be more constant when nothing is really happening (just ignition key turned in pos 1 or 2 I mean).... ?

As it seems to be temperature related I believe, since I never had any issues before the fall 2012.

Have eliminated the micro power module and the cluster by keeping it above 30 degrees C. for a awhile and then getting in the car but still same problem persists. Will keep at it as I am not ready to have the dealer take my $$ for a new cluster.........

Any suggestions welcome!!!

cmyachtie

Thanks but I have not done any programming at all, would not know where to start yet even, car is still too new to me.
By control unit do you mean the DME??

cmyachtie

Decided to take a video of what is happening with my instrument cluster, after having the car parked overnight, the tripodometer and clock have lost there previous settings and upon entering the car this is what happens since we got cold weather, when I first got this car in September everything seemingly was alright. Now I have second thoughts on that as I had to set the clock on several occasions even during the warm weather. The symptoms have me torn between two causes one being strictly temperature related and the other being power related it's almost like there is a lithium battery somewhere that needs to be replaced and is charging sufficiently after the car has ran for over 30 mins. Actually there are 3 causes the 3rd one being a SW adaptive issue but am rather shooting in the dark on that one.

Also I should mention the car OTT runs great even during this annoying cluster rebooting....

Look forward to any inputs on this

Thanks






Enjoy the video

cmyachtie

1)
It also does this sitting in the garage when the key is turned to the 2 pos w/o engine running during the cold weather, gets less often when temps warm up..

2)
OK, just realized that while this cluster is rebooting, IF I'm driving along that actually the odometer does not increments either which is a good thing to keep the mileage down I suppose...LOL.

Case in point the other I drove into town and back and when I took the finished odometer reading noticed it was only 53 km where I know it should have been over 70. And today just going for a short trip that should be 17 km was only 7.........
So the culprit must be in the DME or control unit instead??

advancedlogic

Have you tried swapping instrument clusters? Checked your IVM module for possible contributory faults? KOMBI? There are so many interrelated modules, I'd try swapping clusters first to see if there may be a board fault. Otherwise, it may be time to bite the bullet and take it to the dealer for analysis. Of course you could elect to repair yourself after the problem is identified. Best of luck!

mickeyboy500

This is very synonymous of your battery voltage being much too low.

That fits in with you saying that if you leave it for a few days and not drive it the problem occurs, either your alternator is not charging the battery correctly in the first place or something is draining the battery whilst the car is asleep.

Your battery should hold about 12.6v when the car is switched off and 14.5v (ish) when the alternator is charging it.

Did you put in the same size (Ah) battery when you chamged it?
Did you register it to the car once fitted?

These are important points when you change batteries onmodern BMWs.

cmyachtie

Dealer fitted and registered battery with PO, have not been back to dealer YET but if I am convinced battery is the culprit (meaning they installed a DUD or F#$$%ed up doing the install/registering) will be back there to have them fix it but am reluctant to go there at this point as I know they will bleed me $$$ while they replace stuff....morons they are.

mickeyboy500

I am with you all the way re: the stealers so you need to be sure of yourground first. To that end you need to get the "if" out of theequation first.

Get a multimeter and record your battery voltage for the followingconditions:

a) After the car has been left standing overnight (or for a couple of daysif you can) or both - should be around 12.5v

b) With the engine running in the driveway - should be around 14.5v

c) With the engine switched off, but immediately after you have been on ahalf decent run (i.e. Alternator been charging for a decent while, say 30 minutes) -Should be around 12.5v

Only then will you have some idea as to what is happening to your battery(in differing circumstances) and if it is all or part or none of the problem.

If you have DIS (or know someone that has it and will help you out) you canaccess the battery history charge status over the past 5 days, it should beshowing somewhere in the upper 90's, it will also tell you when the lastbattery change / registration was, (see image below) confirming whether thestealer did the job correctly or not.

I'm not saying the battery is definitely your problem but everything youdescribe has all the hall marks so you need to either eliminate it or proveotherwise in the first instance.

Fixing a battery issue whether it is down to a dead cell, Alternator notcharging or something is draining it overnight is likely to be a whole lot less expensiveto fix than swopping out ECU's or other components.

Let us know how you get on.

http://i616.photobucket.com/albums/t...ps654aede3.jpg

advancedlogic

I was initially thinking battery, except you state that the car runs fine even with the cluster rebooting. Have you had any starting issues?