Yeah I'm starting to wonder if this is just what every one of them does alexander. Although before radiator change the rev limit bars would go down to 2 bars and stay that way the whole day even if turned off. Now, as soon as I turn the car off for roughly 20 minutes the bars shoot up to 6400rpm and take a long time to go down to 3 bars which is around 6800rpm... so I really don't know what to put this down to. And yes I had 1 or 2 days when the car did actually warm up quickly and reach above 90 as expected, but it was at random. Really don't know what else to try, especially when money is just being thrown at it Giving it a rest until I get a chance to play around with the modules, need to save up first.

 

Have to sum up my situation;

1) changed stat twice, worked like a couple of days at 100-105 and responded on power cooling down towards 80 degC.

2) it fluctuate 75-85 with the fan (checked on idle) and up to 95 km/h, Im serious exactly 95 over that it warms up (in 2 min) to 100 degC. Even if I degear and rolls down hill in >95 km/h it Stays warm.....< 95 it cools down. Do I have a speed related issue? ABS sensors?

3) the other week it was below zero degC and they deice the roads with salt (my black car is a grey rat!) So my tailgate (glass door) micro switch start malfunction, opens during travel, at the same time engine coolant is pretty stable at 100 degC. Do I have a wire/connection/sensor issue (shorting, loose connection).

4) changed VANOS solenoids some week ago, do I have a oil system issue.

5) since 5 days back to low temp in low speeds!

6) no fault codes!

7) have run couple of coolant bleeding cycles, no effect.

8) engine coolant temp sensor show same as ambient temp when coold, seems to work then?

9) when runing on 80 degC I get down to 4 lines on speedometer (oil temp) and 2-3 when operating hot! Takes like > 10 min to get to 80 degC

10) as it is runing cold in my opinion I have checked for mayo
under the oil cap, ok and idle is fine no stalling either!

Im glad the Sun i shining, blue sky + 3 degC!

 

I'm starting to think its the water pump. Correct me if I'm wrong, but it looks like all you guys with this problem haven't changed your water pumps yet. I haven't changed mine either, but I was talking to a couple BMW techs and they were saying how it could be water starting to fail electronically making rad fan come on when not supposed to and other stuff. I don't want change it on a whim. Don't really have a extra 1000+ laying around, but I think that's what it is. Going to have to wait for to die completely before I will replace it. For now I'm sick and tired of this crap. If not for this problem car would be perfect.

 

You know my tech was also saying it could be water pump but he reckons it would certainly throw an error as it's sensitive and really closely monitored. But like you, it's the last part to attempt replacing due to price :/

 

Drove the state road to work this morning, 80 degC in 80 km/h.

Drove home highway in 130 km/h and at 101-103 degC.... Suprise....Even when leaving highway and slowing down in town and driving 15 km home I mappped arround 100.??

I realy like to know whats going on....

 

Hi all




I have the same excatly the same problem as you Guys! my car is an 530I 2006 05 N52 engine


Mine also came on after Radiator was replaced! have tried changed the stat and the sensors but without any changes:-(


Has any tried to replace the oil stat?


Have any of you fixed the problem?


Best Regards

 

Like to give you all a feedback on our issue, its like 3 month since we spooke a lot of this...

During winter when outside temp has been below like 5 degC, mine has most of time been running on 99 to 103 degC but as spring came and temp rises it have gone back to my issue...running on 80 in speeds below 95 km/h....

So has anyone else have had the patient to observe and solve the issue?

Don Dario - Did you map the temp before rad exchange and now its running cold? Was anything else exchanged with the rad?

I have not changed the oil cooler yet.... (I have a man gearbox so I refer to the engine oil cooler..)

Regards Torgny

 

Well it has been a long time, mine is still running cold, I did change the oil cooler and that didn't resolve it. The only things left are the water pump or data-maps sent to the ECU (which might require a new DME), both of these are not cheap so I'm not touching them until they fail, the water pump should but it's still going strong :/ so no luck on my end, here's a list of things I replaced until now:

Radiator
Thermostat replaced twice with new ones
Coolant temperature sensor (fan switch)
Water/heater valve
Oil Cooler Thermostat

Plus: VANOS solenoids, transmission pan and oil; although this wasn't related to the engine running cold issue.

 

Hi Torgny


Sorry for the late answer but i have been on a small vacation;-)


But no i didnt read the precise hidden temp. but i allways keep an eye on the "temp gauge" on the rpm gauge and the temp went up much quicker then now, its taking a very long time to get the 80C .


How long time does it take you BMW to get the 80C ? 15-20 min.? or?


I think its the DME or just the Building of the coolling system that isnt well made!


There a new radiator without with one less spigot and a new hose but oi have tried to block the hose with a brake hose tooll but with out any luck! i got my radiator changed with the old version:-(


Its a bit weird that the pattern shift as to the weather changes?


Best Regards

 

As I logg the coolant temp via OBD Bluetooth adapter and Torque PRO I see pretty accurat when I use the diagram time vs temp. I Would say that it takes 7-8 min to reach 80 degC when cruise in ECO mode...... Ambient temp is about 10 degC now.

Im still suspecting the front ABS- speed senors. .....

Torgny