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The "25-second trick" does not work. You need to reset the transmission adaptations using INPA or other software.
Yes, replace the solenoids (and seals!) before replacing the transmission.
I purchased the solenoids at thectsc.com.
I purchased the seals at pelicanparts.com
I did the work in my garage with the car on jackstands. The worst part of the job for me was both the transmission fluid getting everywhere (buy lots of Oil-Dri pads) and removing the Mechtronics seal. There's just not a lot of room to get that seal out, especially lying on your back and only being able to use one hand.
I just did 2007 525i 6hp19 transmission service last saturday/sunday (two days). 1st day removing pan and valvebody, next day clean valve body, remove all solenoids and clean with MAS Cleaner. I found one solenoid out of spec. Green Solenoids suppose to be 5 ohm, I am getting Location 4 Green Solenoid 7.3 ohm. I did not have preorder so I had to use it, i changed location for this out of spec solenoid from 4 to 2. I used to get 4f83, 4f85 randon limp modes after about 50 miles drive. but after restarting car, was able to drive normally, so after 4-5 years I decided to service it finally. I found the PAN built in 2006, means original for 2007 model. I found lots of metal powder in the pan but no any big pieces of metal. I have 219K miles on this car. I replace all 4 rubber sleeves and Rubber Bridge with new one but i had to use same round plastic medtronic because new one was not getting in when i try it on the valve body outsie. I found lots of brocken foam pieces, I did not know about that Foam Protection for Solenoids, so i had to finish my job without using that Foam protection for solenoids. I drive about 100 miles, so far so good but I have not try more than 40 miles at a time yet. I used 2 Gallans of Maxlife Multicar Transmission Oil, which i had used couple of times before drain and fill without any advers effect. I will update after driving more long distance. The hard part is to remove Medtronics Connector Sleeve. Also I had probem with one of the T40 bolt from Valve body that got strip, but I manage to remove using Lock Plier. Again I did not have replacement so I used it again. I had bought New PAN from FPC and New 24 PAN bolts from Amazone, but no new bolts for Valve body. I used Ramps for the front wheels and Jack Stands for the back wheels and keep the floor Jack in the back middle. I got out about 2 gallans and put new 2 gallans of Maxlife Multicar TX Oil. Don't wanted to spend to much on this old car.I think my proble was the original oil pan with too much metal powder collected in the filter may be not getting enough oil pressure or that 7.3 ohm Green Solenoid. I use car Battery to test all Solenoids to make sure they all clicks before putting it back. According to AI consultation with my situation my problem suppose to be Rubber Seals and Rubber Bridge and OLD Filter PAN before I started this service. But I found that Rubber Sleeves and Bridge looked fine. In my opinion the Original PAN Filter or that one Green Solenoid 7.3 ohm may be the culprit. Also I found that the yellow plastic rectangle sliding part had tiny holes that blocked. I clean that prlastic, may be that dirty plastic slider was not getting lubricant to properly slide on the Valve body Punger for shifting Gears?????