DIY ZF 6HP19Z Transmission Drain & Refill
10-16-2013, 05:57 AM
#281
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My Ride: 2007 530i Alpine White with Navi and Premium PackageIn progress: OEM Mtech kit, H&R Sport Springs, and 19
I didnt feel any difference. Just piece of mind after doing it. Not sure what to part out. I dont have the wheels on since my daughter curbed one while learning to drive smh. Not much else to take off that is in good shape.
10-25-2013, 01:27 AM
#282
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After reading this thread went about and replaced the leaker and took lots of pictures as people here kept asking to re-post the OP's pics of this process which seemed to have disappeared, so here is a 545i 2004 6HP26 oil pan&filter change. - a set on Flickr bunch that should help those looking for visuals. Don't know how well the descriptions are visible to the public from that site and JIC they are not here's some noticable items to be aware of for those attempting this.
1) When raising the car try to get it as high as you safely can, in my case the ramps I use should be higher for easier access.
2) For a reference to get the car level you can use the bottom of the rockerpanels under the doors as it is close to being level.
3) Remove that small heatshield near the filler plug (only 2 screws) for easier access, after you have removed the two large underbody splash panels.
4) I am a one man operation but two sets of hands is a lot easier.
5) Have a power driver ready for those 21 Torx screws holding the pan on will save you a lot of time.
6) While draining old oil raise the front of car some more to get more oil out and then drop it again to level before re-filling.
7) You can do this without flooding the garage with oil if you plan it properly and have a large drip tray.
8) have some preferably leather gloves ready to prevent from burning your hands when re-inserting the plug after re-filling that exhaust gets hot by the time you get all the required oil in again.
9) Easiest way to monitor tranny oil temperature during refill is INPA or similar diagn. program plugged into your ODBII connector.
That's about all I can think of beyond the obvious stuff........
Hopes this adds to the good info that is already here.
OH and almost forgot to mention, I used Pentosin ATF1 and am planning to drain it again this week to re-fill again so I get about 75% new oil in there as now it's only 50 % there IMHO...
Follow-up.......driven the car now for two weeks since the first drain and used 10 liters of Pentosin for the 2 drain ops. and also added 2 liters ZF fluid as the 10 ltrs Pentosin was insufficient (due to spillage) and thusfar am very satisfied with the new feel and functioning of the transmission, she shifts much smoother and better I find....would highly recommend doing this oil change for those that have approx 100K or thereabouts and/or 8-10 yrs I think that the aging as well as mileage make their toll on the oil quality even though it's "Lifetime" ...........
1) When raising the car try to get it as high as you safely can, in my case the ramps I use should be higher for easier access.
2) For a reference to get the car level you can use the bottom of the rockerpanels under the doors as it is close to being level.
3) Remove that small heatshield near the filler plug (only 2 screws) for easier access, after you have removed the two large underbody splash panels.
4) I am a one man operation but two sets of hands is a lot easier.
5) Have a power driver ready for those 21 Torx screws holding the pan on will save you a lot of time.
6) While draining old oil raise the front of car some more to get more oil out and then drop it again to level before re-filling.
7) You can do this without flooding the garage with oil if you plan it properly and have a large drip tray.
8) have some preferably leather gloves ready to prevent from burning your hands when re-inserting the plug after re-filling that exhaust gets hot by the time you get all the required oil in again.
9) Easiest way to monitor tranny oil temperature during refill is INPA or similar diagn. program plugged into your ODBII connector.
That's about all I can think of beyond the obvious stuff........
Hopes this adds to the good info that is already here.
OH and almost forgot to mention, I used Pentosin ATF1 and am planning to drain it again this week to re-fill again so I get about 75% new oil in there as now it's only 50 % there IMHO...
Follow-up.......driven the car now for two weeks since the first drain and used 10 liters of Pentosin for the 2 drain ops. and also added 2 liters ZF fluid as the 10 ltrs Pentosin was insufficient (due to spillage) and thusfar am very satisfied with the new feel and functioning of the transmission, she shifts much smoother and better I find....would highly recommend doing this oil change for those that have approx 100K or thereabouts and/or 8-10 yrs I think that the aging as well as mileage make their toll on the oil quality even though it's "Lifetime" ...........
Last edited by cmyachtie; 10-31-2013 at 02:11 PM.
11-25-2013, 10:32 AM
#283
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Looks like I need to do this on my '04 530 with 103K; sealing sleeve looks OK, area around pan gasket is moist with ATF.
Are you all replacing the pan screws for this job, or is it OK to just reuse them?
Are you all replacing the pan screws for this job, or is it OK to just reuse them?
11-26-2013, 05:26 AM
#284
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Apparently they SHOULD not be reused, that being said does not mean you cannot reuse them........the screws are supposed to be torque spec'd in that they become weaker after use.....you govern yourself accordingly I did replace them I know they are expensive but $100 or there abouts is a cheap insurance for tranny replacement should you loose your fluid.
11-26-2013, 06:20 AM
#285
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My Ride: E60 530i
Model Year: 2004
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After reading this thread went about and replaced the leaker and took lots of pictures as people here kept asking to re-post the OP's pics of this process which seemed to have disappeared, so here is a 545i 2004 6HP26 oil pan&filter change. - a set on Flickr bunch that should help those looking for visuals. Don't know how well the descriptions are visible to the public from that site and JIC they are not here's some noticable items to be aware of for those attempting this.
1) When raising the car try to get it as high as you safely can, in my case the ramps I use should be higher for easier access.
2) For a reference to get the car level you can use the bottom of the rockerpanels under the doors as it is close to being level.
3) Remove that small heatshield near the filler plug (only 2 screws) for easier access, after you have removed the two large underbody splash panels.
4) I am a one man operation but two sets of hands is a lot easier.
5) Have a power driver ready for those 21 Torx screws holding the pan on will save you a lot of time.
6) While draining old oil raise the front of car some more to get more oil out and then drop it again to level before re-filling.
7) You can do this without flooding the garage with oil if you plan it properly and have a large drip tray.
8) have some preferably leather gloves ready to prevent from burning your hands when re-inserting the plug after re-filling that exhaust gets hot by the time you get all the required oil in again.
9) Easiest way to monitor tranny oil temperature during refill is INPA or similar diagn. program plugged into your ODBII connector.
That's about all I can think of beyond the obvious stuff........
Hopes this adds to the good info that is already here.
OH and almost forgot to mention, I used Pentosin ATF1 and am planning to drain it again this week to re-fill again so I get about 75% new oil in there as now it's only 50 % there IMHO...
Follow-up.......driven the car now for two weeks since the first drain and used 10 liters of Pentosin for the 2 drain ops. and also added 2 liters ZF fluid as the 10 ltrs Pentosin was insufficient (due to spillage) and thusfar am very satisfied with the new feel and functioning of the transmission, she shifts much smoother and better I find....would highly recommend doing this oil change for those that have approx 100K or thereabouts and/or 8-10 yrs I think that the aging as well as mileage make their toll on the oil quality even though it's "Lifetime" ...........
1) When raising the car try to get it as high as you safely can, in my case the ramps I use should be higher for easier access.
2) For a reference to get the car level you can use the bottom of the rockerpanels under the doors as it is close to being level.
3) Remove that small heatshield near the filler plug (only 2 screws) for easier access, after you have removed the two large underbody splash panels.
4) I am a one man operation but two sets of hands is a lot easier.
5) Have a power driver ready for those 21 Torx screws holding the pan on will save you a lot of time.
6) While draining old oil raise the front of car some more to get more oil out and then drop it again to level before re-filling.
7) You can do this without flooding the garage with oil if you plan it properly and have a large drip tray.
8) have some preferably leather gloves ready to prevent from burning your hands when re-inserting the plug after re-filling that exhaust gets hot by the time you get all the required oil in again.
9) Easiest way to monitor tranny oil temperature during refill is INPA or similar diagn. program plugged into your ODBII connector.
That's about all I can think of beyond the obvious stuff........
Hopes this adds to the good info that is already here.
OH and almost forgot to mention, I used Pentosin ATF1 and am planning to drain it again this week to re-fill again so I get about 75% new oil in there as now it's only 50 % there IMHO...
Follow-up.......driven the car now for two weeks since the first drain and used 10 liters of Pentosin for the 2 drain ops. and also added 2 liters ZF fluid as the 10 ltrs Pentosin was insufficient (due to spillage) and thusfar am very satisfied with the new feel and functioning of the transmission, she shifts much smoother and better I find....would highly recommend doing this oil change for those that have approx 100K or thereabouts and/or 8-10 yrs I think that the aging as well as mileage make their toll on the oil quality even though it's "Lifetime" ...........
Thanks.
11-26-2013, 06:30 AM
#286
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Apparently they SHOULD not be reused, that being said does not mean you cannot reuse them........the screws are supposed to be torque spec'd in that they become weaker after use.....you govern yourself accordingly I did replace them I know they are expensive but $100 or there abouts is a cheap insurance for tranny replacement should you loose your fluid.
11-26-2013, 07:31 AM
#287
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thanks for the responses guys. at less than $2 each, I'm not going to take the chance of having an old bolt not seal correctly. Thanks again for the input.
It's somewhere in this thread, I think only a couple of pages back from the end. It's very simple to access, assuming you know your way around INPA.
It's somewhere in this thread, I think only a couple of pages back from the end. It's very simple to access, assuming you know your way around INPA.
11-26-2013, 08:01 AM
#288
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My Ride: E60 530i
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thanks for the responses guys. at less than $2 each, I'm not going to take the chance of having an old bolt not seal correctly. Thanks again for the input.
It's somewhere in this thread, I think only a couple of pages back from the end. It's very simple to access, assuming you know your way around INPA.
It's somewhere in this thread, I think only a couple of pages back from the end. It's very simple to access, assuming you know your way around INPA.