roskinc

what if you hold that other key next to the ignition as you try to turn it over using the new cut key..

seems like the other person had this issue too and had to cut open his 2nd key to get it working.

bym007

I tried holding the working key next to the ignition, but it does not turn. I may be holding it incorrectly though.

What do you mean by cutting the 2nd key?

Addyp

I'm also having the same problems, key will unlock the f

Addyp

Unlock the door but it won't turn in the ignition...??. Anyone come up with a solution for this yet..??.

Cheers

bym007

I asked my Indy mechanic (ex-BMW dealer) about the key issue, and although he is not 100%, he reckons they key may have been cut incorrectly.

terry8

Hi I think most people will be using their spare keys which have been in the drawer for years. I think that its not something under top of the key or being on top of the blade but rather the proximity of the circuit board nearer the ignition. The battery must be very weak. Also in the new flip case the distant of the board is further. So either try with a new battery or if the battery is rechargeable, drive around with the spare key for a few weeks before retrying. Let me know if it works as other people have got it working.

Rizbel

Another easy DIY completed. Thanks

Wea0versd

The Bulb you see there is the actual new bulb

Bimmerstyle

I've also ordered this flip style key from the UK ebay seller but I haven't recieved it yet. Should be in the mail somewere next week.

I havent cut my key open to look what's in there but after reading quite a bit on the internet regarding these keys I'm pretty sure no OEM keys have the separate immobilizer chip in them, only the aftermarket ones do. So, why do some of them work and others don't? Sheer luck in my opinion.

From what I've gathered on the web it has nothing to do with the battery charge. I has nothing to do with the black plastic part in front of the diamond key housing. It however has something to do with the distance between the electronics board to the locking mechanism and the ring antenna that surrounds the lock.

On the attached picture are highlighted the two parts that are important to us.

1 is the transponder chip. It is soldered on de PCB but it doesn't need the battery's power. It is powered by the induction coming from the induction coil.

2 is the induction coil. It has 2 functions. Charging the battery and transmitting the info coming from and powering the transponder chip.

The problem that some people are having with the key not functioning when placed in the flip case has imho to do with the distance from the induction coil in the key fob to the ring antenna surrounding the lock.

So to my believes the sollution to make it work is desolder the induction coil from the key's PCB, solder some wires to it and via those wires connect it again to the PCB. Now you can place the coil in front of the key where there is some space to put the separate "aftermarket" transponder. If my theory is correct, now the coil picks up the induction from the ring antenna surrounding the lock, transfers this to the transponder chip and simultaneously charges the battery. You now should have a fully operating key.

As I said, I'm expecting to have my flip case arriving somewhere next week. When I have it and it doesn't work out of the box (what I expect) I will try what I've just explained here and post my results here. I think this could be the sollution to everyone here who's flipkey isn't working...


Another sollution that is likely to work is to cut your wallet/valet key open (if you have one), remove the transponder chip from it and place this in the front of the flip key housing. Now your car most likely will start using the valet key's transponder for information. Keep in mind however that since the ring antenna doesn't provide induction to the coil in the key the battery also will not charge anymore when in the lock.

Bimmerstyle

Ok, so I've got my key fob in the mail today. Pretty fast schipping for standard mail services. 5 working days to get it from the UK to Belgium. It isn't lighting fast but it ain't bad either.

First impressions I've got... Not so great. The key feels quite flimsy. Also when looking at it directly from the side reveals quite a gap. It's all twisted where the spring mechanism sits. The plastic body can't cope with the power of the spring load and bends open.

From a distance it looks quite good. Also when looking more closely it ain't that bad until you flip it to the side and notice the gap. I'm not really sure I want to hack open my old key to replace it with this flimsy looking one.

I didn't have a chance yet to test it in the ignition to see how it turns. I tried to have the blade cut this afternoon but the first locksmith I went couldn't cut it. He didn't have the right tools and told me most locksmiths won't have them because they rarely get a customer who wants this type of BMW key cut. Basicly only BMW can reproduce these key's with the proper PCB inside so independed locksmiths don't hassle with them, he told me.

I have some other locksmiths in the area but they are all closed on Monday's. I will try another one tommorow.

If I can get the key cut I will try it in the ignition first before I open up my old key. Some people complain that it doesn't turn smoothly and they have to flip it a little bit back closed to make it turn in the ignition. If this also happens with mine I really don't think I will open up the old key and try to make the flipkey work. Otherwise I probably end up with a smashed up diamond key and a flimsy flip key that's difficult to use...

I will keep you guys posted but for now I'm quite disapointed...