DIY: Brakes Replacement & Painting the Calipers
06-01-2010, 04:42 AM
#31
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My Ride: E60 530i
Model Year: 2004
Engine: M54
I just did my rear brake pads this weekend (not rotors, just pads).
I thought I would share some thoughts/experiences. I am an avid DIY, but this was my first BMW work. '07 550i.
First off, I jacked up the car using my Sears hydraulic car jack...has a round ring that lifts the vehicle. Well, I used the jack point, but BMW uses that form fit rectangular plastic piece that fits their spare jack perfectly. My round jack dug into that plastic some. Funny, but this was the most nerve racking part..actually jacking up the car. The suspension took a lot of jacking before the wheel really started to lift. I dont know, I have changed a lot of tires in my days, but this one seemed more trouble. What jacking point does everyone else use?
I used the TIS and since I was not replacing the rotors, I just removed the guide bolts..that was very easy. However, removing the 'tension spring' was not. I tried all different angles/methods with a screw driver, but couldnt figure it out. Finally I was able to pop it out by twisting where the spring is held in the caliper 'hole' and popped it out. Easy now, just didnt know the trick.
well, then the caliper should just 'slide back' and come off. Well, no. It took a rubber mallet and nut driver (to hammer on) and got the caliper to push off.
I kept the piston side brake pad installed and using a c-clamp, pressed it all the way back. I had already opened the brake reservoir (by removing the entire interior filter assembly, which was easy). I was amazed that the brake fluid basically didnt rise much at all.
then I removed the pad, cleaned up the caliper a bit and put on some anti-squeal grease on the areas mentioned in the TIS. Installed the new pads, slide the caliper back on and reinstalled the guide bolts. The new sensor was also easy.
The most tiring was getting the tire back on! haha.
I was able to reset the idrive easy enough. It says 31000 miles now. Nice.
I will be definitely doing the front brakes in 15000 miles or so and I plan on bleeding my own brakes.
As I said, I am curious where others use as a jacking point assuming they dont use the spare tire cheapo jack.
Oh, and this must be the dirtiest job possible.
thx
I thought I would share some thoughts/experiences. I am an avid DIY, but this was my first BMW work. '07 550i.
First off, I jacked up the car using my Sears hydraulic car jack...has a round ring that lifts the vehicle. Well, I used the jack point, but BMW uses that form fit rectangular plastic piece that fits their spare jack perfectly. My round jack dug into that plastic some. Funny, but this was the most nerve racking part..actually jacking up the car. The suspension took a lot of jacking before the wheel really started to lift. I dont know, I have changed a lot of tires in my days, but this one seemed more trouble. What jacking point does everyone else use?
I used the TIS and since I was not replacing the rotors, I just removed the guide bolts..that was very easy. However, removing the 'tension spring' was not. I tried all different angles/methods with a screw driver, but couldnt figure it out. Finally I was able to pop it out by twisting where the spring is held in the caliper 'hole' and popped it out. Easy now, just didnt know the trick.
well, then the caliper should just 'slide back' and come off. Well, no. It took a rubber mallet and nut driver (to hammer on) and got the caliper to push off.
I kept the piston side brake pad installed and using a c-clamp, pressed it all the way back. I had already opened the brake reservoir (by removing the entire interior filter assembly, which was easy). I was amazed that the brake fluid basically didnt rise much at all.
then I removed the pad, cleaned up the caliper a bit and put on some anti-squeal grease on the areas mentioned in the TIS. Installed the new pads, slide the caliper back on and reinstalled the guide bolts. The new sensor was also easy.
The most tiring was getting the tire back on! haha.
I was able to reset the idrive easy enough. It says 31000 miles now. Nice.
I will be definitely doing the front brakes in 15000 miles or so and I plan on bleeding my own brakes.
As I said, I am curious where others use as a jacking point assuming they dont use the spare tire cheapo jack.
Oh, and this must be the dirtiest job possible.
thx
06-01-2010, 09:31 AM
#34
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06-01-2010, 09:33 AM
#35
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My Ride: 545i Sport
Model Year: 2004
Engine: N62
...However, removing the 'tension spring' was not. I tried all different angles/methods with a screw driver, but couldnt figure it out. Finally I was able to pop it out by twisting where the spring is held in the caliper 'hole' and popped it out. Easy now, just didnt know the trick...
...As I said, I am curious where others use as a jacking point assuming they dont use the spare tire cheapo jack.
Oh, and this must be the dirtiest job possible.
thx
...As I said, I am curious where others use as a jacking point assuming they dont use the spare tire cheapo jack.
Oh, and this must be the dirtiest job possible.
thx
For the jacking point, I used the side jacking point with a 2ton jack. If I need to raise both wheels I use the Front center jacking point (rectangular pad) or rear differential housing (avoiding the cooling pins).
06-02-2010, 04:11 AM
#36
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I just did my rear brakes too and had the same experience with the tension spring.
For the jacking point, I used the side jacking point with a 2ton jack. If I need to raise both wheels I use the Front center jacking point (rectangular pad) or rear differential housing (avoiding the cooling pins).
For the jacking point, I used the side jacking point with a 2ton jack. If I need to raise both wheels I use the Front center jacking point (rectangular pad) or rear differential housing (avoiding the cooling pins).
If I jacked up the entire rear or front, I would want to get a good set of jack stands to stabilize the car and not be on one center point.
06-02-2010, 11:01 AM
#37
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My Ride: 545i Sport
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That would be a different application if all fours are up. I'd do 1 center on one axle and 2 sides on the other axle for stability( or 4 sides if you have 4 jackstands) .
06-02-2010, 12:01 PM
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08-22-2010, 06:56 AM
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My Ride: 2004 BMW 545i Sport Titanium Silver, Cold Weather, Sun Shades, Active Steering, K&N filter (Carbon Delete), CDV Delete), 18x8.5, 18x9.5 Beyerns, 5mm Rear Spacer, Smoked Side Markers (LED), 35% Tints/20% Rear, and a few other mods/add-ons. :)
1946 Willys Cj2a Chev.350/Th350/Dana 300. 39.5x16.5x15 Swamper Boggers, 15x12 Rock Crawlers, Custom Suspension, Custom Interior, Custom Everything! 400HP, 350Torque
2003 Ford F-350 XLT Lariat Super-Duty Powersttroke Diesel 8" lift, Racing Reservoir Shocks, 36x14.5x16.5 Swampers,16.5x12 Weld Typhoon Wheels, Tuner, Air Raid filter, Banks Wastegate, 4.5-5" Magnaflow Exhaust, MANY mods!
I too am planning on upgrading my front brakes and will be installing the cross drilled/slotted rotors. Can someone point me to the best place to buy them (best price/quality)? I don't really care what name is on the box.
Also, I am suprised to see that no one seems to be using the ceramic pads to get less brake dust. I know I am not the only one, but man ... my 545i seems to make more [brake] dust than a dump truck on a dirt road! Is anyone aware of a drawback to ceramic pads other than possibly a slightly increased stopping distance over a performance semi-metallic (Hawk, Stop-Tech, etc)?
I have to second to whoever it was who recommended using a ceramic based paint for the calipers ... you'll want that for lasting looks and heat transfer.
Great write-up on the DIY brake job! Thanks!
Also, I am suprised to see that no one seems to be using the ceramic pads to get less brake dust. I know I am not the only one, but man ... my 545i seems to make more [brake] dust than a dump truck on a dirt road! Is anyone aware of a drawback to ceramic pads other than possibly a slightly increased stopping distance over a performance semi-metallic (Hawk, Stop-Tech, etc)?
I have to second to whoever it was who recommended using a ceramic based paint for the calipers ... you'll want that for lasting looks and heat transfer.
Great write-up on the DIY brake job! Thanks!