DIY: Brakes Replacement & Painting the Calipers
10-19-2010, 11:08 AM
#41
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Has anyone else had any issues with getting the single rotor hex bolt off (the bolt that holds the rotor in place)?
I would rather not have to drill it out like the OP did.
Just wondering how widespread this issue really is.....
I would rather not have to drill it out like the OP did.
Just wondering how widespread this issue really is.....
10-19-2010, 12:18 PM
#42
Those hex brake disc screws are a pain. Use a hex socket bit. Use penetrating fluid. And give then a sharp tap with a hammer before trying to undo them. They do come off.
10-19-2010, 01:15 PM
#43
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And can you expand on how to tap that screw with a hammer? Do you mean just take a hammer and hit the area on the old rotor where the bolt is?
10-20-2010, 05:39 AM
#46
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My Ride: E60 530i
Model Year: 2004
Engine: M54
I have not done my brake pads/rotors yet. BMW approach is similar to Honda, pain in the neck!!! Last brake job was done by dealer when car was still under warranty.
10-27-2010, 10:18 AM
#48
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MNMike, I think you helped me figure out a problem I have had for months. When you wrote:
Option 2 that I went with I don't really suggest - but off the record I think is perfectly safe. Most cars do not have a bolt like this holding the rotor in place. I think its there to keep the rotor in place for easy install of the caliper and wheels. You realize once your wheels are tightened down they'll keep the rotor snuggly in place. Furthermore, the little stud and wheel bolts keep it from doing any sort of rotation. Again, I don't fully recommend doing this, but I think it's ok.
After doing my brakes and changing both front spindle/bearing assemblies, I had a vibration that acted like a bad wheel or tire, or warped rotors. After reading this I thought maybe the allen bolt, which I had religeously tightened, maybe was causing alignment issues with the hub surface. As you correctly pointed out, it only holds the disc in place while reassembling everything. I took mine apart, loosened the bolt about one full turn, then reassembled...took it out and the vibration has nearly disappeared. I now suspect that most of the problems were being caused by that little bolt holding the disc at a slightly off angle. Tightening a wheel onto it would add to the problem if the disc and the mating surface were not absolutely flush when put together.
Option 2 that I went with I don't really suggest - but off the record I think is perfectly safe. Most cars do not have a bolt like this holding the rotor in place. I think its there to keep the rotor in place for easy install of the caliper and wheels. You realize once your wheels are tightened down they'll keep the rotor snuggly in place. Furthermore, the little stud and wheel bolts keep it from doing any sort of rotation. Again, I don't fully recommend doing this, but I think it's ok.
After doing my brakes and changing both front spindle/bearing assemblies, I had a vibration that acted like a bad wheel or tire, or warped rotors. After reading this I thought maybe the allen bolt, which I had religeously tightened, maybe was causing alignment issues with the hub surface. As you correctly pointed out, it only holds the disc in place while reassembling everything. I took mine apart, loosened the bolt about one full turn, then reassembled...took it out and the vibration has nearly disappeared. I now suspect that most of the problems were being caused by that little bolt holding the disc at a slightly off angle. Tightening a wheel onto it would add to the problem if the disc and the mating surface were not absolutely flush when put together.
10-27-2010, 11:46 AM
#49
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MNMike, I think you helped me figure out a problem I have had for months. When you wrote:
Option 2 that I went with I don't really suggest - but off the record I think is perfectly safe. Most cars do not have a bolt like this holding the rotor in place. I think its there to keep the rotor in place for easy install of the caliper and wheels. You realize once your wheels are tightened down they'll keep the rotor snuggly in place. Furthermore, the little stud and wheel bolts keep it from doing any sort of rotation. Again, I don't fully recommend doing this, but I think it's ok.
After doing my brakes and changing both front spindle/bearing assemblies, I had a vibration that acted like a bad wheel or tire, or warped rotors. After reading this I thought maybe the allen bolt, which I had religeously tightened, maybe was causing alignment issues with the hub surface. As you correctly pointed out, it only holds the disc in place while reassembling everything. I took mine apart, loosened the bolt about one full turn, then reassembled...took it out and the vibration has nearly disappeared. I now suspect that most of the problems were being caused by that little bolt holding the disc at a slightly off angle. Tightening a wheel onto it would add to the problem if the disc and the mating surface were not absolutely flush when put together.
Option 2 that I went with I don't really suggest - but off the record I think is perfectly safe. Most cars do not have a bolt like this holding the rotor in place. I think its there to keep the rotor in place for easy install of the caliper and wheels. You realize once your wheels are tightened down they'll keep the rotor snuggly in place. Furthermore, the little stud and wheel bolts keep it from doing any sort of rotation. Again, I don't fully recommend doing this, but I think it's ok.
After doing my brakes and changing both front spindle/bearing assemblies, I had a vibration that acted like a bad wheel or tire, or warped rotors. After reading this I thought maybe the allen bolt, which I had religeously tightened, maybe was causing alignment issues with the hub surface. As you correctly pointed out, it only holds the disc in place while reassembling everything. I took mine apart, loosened the bolt about one full turn, then reassembled...took it out and the vibration has nearly disappeared. I now suspect that most of the problems were being caused by that little bolt holding the disc at a slightly off angle. Tightening a wheel onto it would add to the problem if the disc and the mating surface were not absolutely flush when put together.
I will also remember to tighten my lugs in a star pattern evenly.
