DIY: Brakes Replacement & Painting the Calipers
10-28-2010, 06:11 AM
#51
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My Ride: E60 530i
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10-28-2010, 04:37 PM
#52
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That is what I was concerned with... You may want to treat the allen screw as a more as a locator pin and leave it loose, actually backed out a turn, otherwise it can cause binding issues when you are reattaching the wheel. You would want to make sure that the head of the screw doesn't protrude above the face, otherwise that would create other alignment issues.
10-22-2011, 06:29 PM
#53
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My Ride: 2005 530i, Premium Package, Grey Leather, Rear Euro Reflectors
I just did my rear brake pads this weekend (not rotors, just pads).
I thought I would share some thoughts/experiences. I am an avid DIY, but this was my first BMW work. '07 550i.
First off, I jacked up the car using my Sears hydraulic car jack...has a round ring that lifts the vehicle. Well, I used the jack point, but BMW uses that form fit rectangular plastic piece that fits their spare jack perfectly. My round jack dug into that plastic some. Funny, but this was the most nerve racking part..actually jacking up the car. The suspension took a lot of jacking before the wheel really started to lift. I dont know, I have changed a lot of tires in my days, but this one seemed more trouble. What jacking point does everyone else use?
I used the TIS and since I was not replacing the rotors, I just removed the guide bolts..that was very easy. However, removing the 'tension spring' was not. I tried all different angles/methods with a screw driver, but couldnt figure it out. Finally I was able to pop it out by twisting where the spring is held in the caliper 'hole' and popped it out. Easy now, just didnt know the trick.
well, then the caliper should just 'slide back' and come off. Well, no. It took a rubber mallet and nut driver (to hammer on) and got the caliper to push off.
I kept the piston side brake pad installed and using a c-clamp, pressed it all the way back. I had already opened the brake reservoir (by removing the entire interior filter assembly, which was easy). I was amazed that the brake fluid basically didnt rise much at all.
then I removed the pad, cleaned up the caliper a bit and put on some anti-squeal grease on the areas mentioned in the TIS. Installed the new pads, slide the caliper back on and reinstalled the guide bolts. The new sensor was also easy.
The most tiring was getting the tire back on! haha.
I was able to reset the idrive easy enough. It says 31000 miles now. Nice.
I will be definitely doing the front brakes in 15000 miles or so and I plan on bleeding my own brakes.
As I said, I am curious where others use as a jacking point assuming they dont use the spare tire cheapo jack.
Oh, and this must be the dirtiest job possible.
thx
I thought I would share some thoughts/experiences. I am an avid DIY, but this was my first BMW work. '07 550i.
First off, I jacked up the car using my Sears hydraulic car jack...has a round ring that lifts the vehicle. Well, I used the jack point, but BMW uses that form fit rectangular plastic piece that fits their spare jack perfectly. My round jack dug into that plastic some. Funny, but this was the most nerve racking part..actually jacking up the car. The suspension took a lot of jacking before the wheel really started to lift. I dont know, I have changed a lot of tires in my days, but this one seemed more trouble. What jacking point does everyone else use?
I used the TIS and since I was not replacing the rotors, I just removed the guide bolts..that was very easy. However, removing the 'tension spring' was not. I tried all different angles/methods with a screw driver, but couldnt figure it out. Finally I was able to pop it out by twisting where the spring is held in the caliper 'hole' and popped it out. Easy now, just didnt know the trick.
well, then the caliper should just 'slide back' and come off. Well, no. It took a rubber mallet and nut driver (to hammer on) and got the caliper to push off.
I kept the piston side brake pad installed and using a c-clamp, pressed it all the way back. I had already opened the brake reservoir (by removing the entire interior filter assembly, which was easy). I was amazed that the brake fluid basically didnt rise much at all.
then I removed the pad, cleaned up the caliper a bit and put on some anti-squeal grease on the areas mentioned in the TIS. Installed the new pads, slide the caliper back on and reinstalled the guide bolts. The new sensor was also easy.
The most tiring was getting the tire back on! haha.
I was able to reset the idrive easy enough. It says 31000 miles now. Nice.
I will be definitely doing the front brakes in 15000 miles or so and I plan on bleeding my own brakes.
As I said, I am curious where others use as a jacking point assuming they dont use the spare tire cheapo jack.
Oh, and this must be the dirtiest job possible.
thx
10-25-2011, 02:25 AM
#54
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My Ride: 2008 535i LCI with sports/premium package, Sports trans with paddle shifters, CF emblems, JB4 Software, Dinan Exhaust, Navigation, M5Tech body kit, Carbon wrap interrior trim and CIC Controller.
That little PITA screw in the rotor can easily be removed with one of these and this tool is very cheap (impact driver). Any local auto store should have them. I bought one long ago at a cheap tool store and it still works like new and is worth its weight in gold. Even if you don't need it for the rotor screw, it can come in handy for so many other hard to get out items. All you do is insert the correct tip put on a pair of gloves for safety. Put the tool with tip into the screw and hit the impact driver with a hammer.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...r-Set/_/N-25dw
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...r-Set/_/N-25dw
01-05-2012, 07:25 AM
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Great write up. I'll be doing this either tonight or over the weekend. Have the R1 slotted and drilled rotors, and the R1 brand ceramic pads....from what I understand they are just centric ceramic posi quiet pads. Interested to see what my dust situation is. I have powder coated my wheels in shiny black.......dust magnets. I'll let ya'll know how it goes.
01-06-2012, 07:10 AM
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Easy breezy install. Put some wd-40 on those pesky rotor screws and used an impact, came off smooth as silk. Loud brakes at first but after a few stops they started to bed in. Smooth and quiet. Installed a new sensor. I wasn't sure if I need one or two sensors for the front, so I bought two. You only need one. Reset the brake warning on the odometer and am good to go. Here are a couple pics.
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