Brake fluid change DIY
Motive's BMW bleeder cap fits exactly on 5 series (bolt on)
The Japanese "generic" cap doesn't bolt on to any specific application.
You have to wrap chain from the cap and around the reservoir.
It's pretty easy if the brake fluid reservoir if exposed, if not, it's pretty sucks to seal the reservoir w/ generic cap to apply pressure.
The Japanese "generic" cap doesn't bolt on to any specific application.
You have to wrap chain from the cap and around the reservoir.
It's pretty easy if the brake fluid reservoir if exposed, if not, it's pretty sucks to seal the reservoir w/ generic cap to apply pressure.
Members
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 88
Likes: 0
From: Michigan
My Ride: 2004 545i,1995 M3
Model Year: 2004
...As a final thought, I personally think it is a bunch of BS regarding the necessity of changing the fluid unless you have a race car. Name any other manufacturer that has this requirement and don't say that BMW's are something special. In my case the dealer didn't do it on my car and I have a hunch it may just be a scam...
The old two man method is probably still the best, though the pressure bleeder should be more convenient. I have heard people say the pressure bleeders force moisture from the air into the fluid, but if you change the fluid every two years I would think that's not a concern.
Contributors
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,110
Likes: 0
From: Quincy, MA, USA
My Ride: E60 530i
Model Year: 2004
Engine: M54
Every German branded car I ever owned had brake fluid replacement as required service. I've had VW, Mercedes, and now BMW. I don't believe the Japanese or US cars had. Must be the German mindset, but as a racer I agree it's important. Brake fluid absorbs moisture, and thus old brake fluid has a lower boiling point than new, and will also lead to rust inside the braking system. The way I drive, regular brake fluid replacement is worth it.
Tilton used to sell a kit to do just that; maybe they still do. I could never make it work without pumping the pedal a few times after connecting the bottle and opening the bleeder screw. After a few pumps more fluid would come out, either by gravity or momentum, not sure which. Took a long time though, and if the threads around the bleeder screw were loose air could get into the caliper through the threads.
The old two man method is probably still the best, though the pressure bleeder should be more convenient. I have heard people say the pressure bleeders force moisture from the air into the fluid, but if you change the fluid every two years I would think that's not a concern.
Tilton used to sell a kit to do just that; maybe they still do. I could never make it work without pumping the pedal a few times after connecting the bottle and opening the bleeder screw. After a few pumps more fluid would come out, either by gravity or momentum, not sure which. Took a long time though, and if the threads around the bleeder screw were loose air could get into the caliper through the threads.
The old two man method is probably still the best, though the pressure bleeder should be more convenient. I have heard people say the pressure bleeders force moisture from the air into the fluid, but if you change the fluid every two years I would think that's not a concern.


