Tailgate wiring harness replacement??
#181
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I thought I'd heard of people extending theirs so it wasn't as taut as before. There's also a kit I thought from BMW, I was curious about what it was... I posted about it here, though didn't get many responses:
https://5series.net/forums/e61-touri...-thing-128943/
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https://5series.net/forums/e61-touri...-thing-128943/
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Last edited by Lotus99; 02-17-2013 at 06:09 PM.
#182
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My Ride: 2006 525d M-sport,19" staggered style 95 wheels,custom quad exhaust with modified reiger rear bumper insert,LCI front and rear lights,stage 2 custom remap, DPF removed, cat removed
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I don't think its the being taut that is the problem, its the fact that the wires are bent from about 90 degrees to straight every time the tailgate or glass is opened.
An idea that i had but didn't do was to fit a 6 inch long piece of "silicone wire" just through the conduit area
An idea that i had but didn't do was to fit a 6 inch long piece of "silicone wire" just through the conduit area
#183
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Did you click the "repair kit" link to see what it's about? I'm wondering if it's nothing more than new wires then? Not anything "improved"?
So it sounds like once fixed, it's just a matter of time again before they fail. It's like based on X times of opening and closing the hatch... Almost a wear and tear issue sadly...
So it sounds like once fixed, it's just a matter of time again before they fail. It's like based on X times of opening and closing the hatch... Almost a wear and tear issue sadly...
#184
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My Ride: 2006 525d M-sport,19" staggered style 95 wheels,custom quad exhaust with modified reiger rear bumper insert,LCI front and rear lights,stage 2 custom remap, DPF removed, cat removed
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Did you click the "repair kit" link to see what it's about? I'm wondering if it's nothing more than new wires then? Not anything "improved"?
So it sounds like once fixed, it's just a matter of time again before they fail. It's like based on X times of opening and closing the hatch... Almost a wear and tear issue sadly...
So it sounds like once fixed, it's just a matter of time again before they fail. It's like based on X times of opening and closing the hatch... Almost a wear and tear issue sadly...
But it does take years the first time(mine took 6 years) so even if it takes two years its a much cheaper fix that buying looms or taking it to bmw. It took me around 5 hours to strip the car, repair the wires and refit the car(i am in the motor trade) but even if someone payed me the £10 per hour i charge,£50 is a very cheap fix
#185
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This is a pic of what the "repair kit" is, to make it easy for others. Parts are about $200 per side it seems!
Someone else had said this about it (I just found it):
There is a repair kit available from BMW, which is basically a piece of cable harness. the original harness still has to be soldered, but whoever does it does not need to spend time on producing the new pieces of wire.
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![](http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/x/i/325.png)
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I don't know if I'm inclined enough (or have enough time) to tear apart the rear and take apart the hinges... Seems like it might be out of my ability level. I've taken apart the pieces and looked inside the Diversity Module though, so at least if that craps out on me out of warranty, I should be able to do that at least!
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Someone else had said this about it (I just found it):
There is a repair kit available from BMW, which is basically a piece of cable harness. the original harness still has to be soldered, but whoever does it does not need to spend time on producing the new pieces of wire.
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.
![](http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/x/i/325.png)
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I don't know if I'm inclined enough (or have enough time) to tear apart the rear and take apart the hinges... Seems like it might be out of my ability level. I've taken apart the pieces and looked inside the Diversity Module though, so at least if that craps out on me out of warranty, I should be able to do that at least!
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Last edited by Lotus99; 02-19-2013 at 03:19 PM.
#186
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I also found this on a German forum (Google translated), along with the BMW repair manuals:
Overview of the function of each wire harnesses:
Is not the number of individual cables but the function. Right to Bottom (tailgate) has the following cables - rear lights tailgate right - license plate light - open button for tailgate - switch back window open - wiper motor + / - close tailgate switch inside (power liftgate) -
Right up (rear) - Plus rear window defroster / connector antenna diversity (ZV - Comfort Access, Comfort Access, radio reception) - switch back window open links down (tailgate) - Lock tailgate - lock rear window - 2x Most cable lock tailgate / rear window - Luggage compartment light tailgate - taillights left tailgate links up (rear window) - Mass Hechscheibenheizung - antenna cable ( Coax cable) - water hose washer
Right side:
![](http://www.teranet.ch/e61/Repsatz_Kabelbaum_Heckklappe_rechts.PNG)
Left side:
![](http://www.teranet.ch/e61/Repsatz_Kabelbaum_Heckklappe_links.PNG)
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Overview of the function of each wire harnesses:
Is not the number of individual cables but the function. Right to Bottom (tailgate) has the following cables - rear lights tailgate right - license plate light - open button for tailgate - switch back window open - wiper motor + / - close tailgate switch inside (power liftgate) -
Right up (rear) - Plus rear window defroster / connector antenna diversity (ZV - Comfort Access, Comfort Access, radio reception) - switch back window open links down (tailgate) - Lock tailgate - lock rear window - 2x Most cable lock tailgate / rear window - Luggage compartment light tailgate - taillights left tailgate links up (rear window) - Mass Hechscheibenheizung - antenna cable ( Coax cable) - water hose washer
Right side:
Left side:
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#187
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I think the fix is in the metal guides, they press the cables again the roof when the lid is closed.
The tension in the wires is intensional for them functioning. There is a spring if I remember correctly from rubber that puts the tension on the wires.
When the lid closed there is an excess of wire and this spring prevents the cables from tangling up.
Now the problem is that the end of the metal guides bends the cable 90° again the roof, there virtually no radius either at the of the metal guides. One can only bend a cable that many times like this before the insulation damages and it then brakes.
Fixing the wires one has to prevent making them shorter so the tension doesn't increase even more.
My fix was to shorten the end of the guide and making a curved exit so the wires have more and arn't pushed to much again the roof. Hope it makes sense what I am saying.
Doing nothing the problem will come back.
The tension in the wires is intensional for them functioning. There is a spring if I remember correctly from rubber that puts the tension on the wires.
When the lid closed there is an excess of wire and this spring prevents the cables from tangling up.
Now the problem is that the end of the metal guides bends the cable 90° again the roof, there virtually no radius either at the of the metal guides. One can only bend a cable that many times like this before the insulation damages and it then brakes.
Fixing the wires one has to prevent making them shorter so the tension doesn't increase even more.
My fix was to shorten the end of the guide and making a curved exit so the wires have more and arn't pushed to much again the roof. Hope it makes sense what I am saying.
Doing nothing the problem will come back.
![](http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/3425/bracketv.png)
#188
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In follow-up to my message from a couple weeks ago, an indy mechanic checked the wiring harnesses near the right tailgate hinge. The outside one had a couple broken wires. He cut out a 8 inch section of all the wires, soldered in new wires, and that fixed the back-up lamp malfunction. But not the problem with unable to lock the car from the key fob.
I went to a second indy mechanic (Boston Motor Werks in Belmont MA). They are former BMW shop mechanics and have all the BMW diagnostics. They said the battery was failing and that was probably the reason for the radio station weird behavior. And they thought the remote locking issue was due to a faulty antenna diversity module. They replaced both the battery and the diversity module. Now the radio and locks work great.
I went to a second indy mechanic (Boston Motor Werks in Belmont MA). They are former BMW shop mechanics and have all the BMW diagnostics. They said the battery was failing and that was probably the reason for the radio station weird behavior. And they thought the remote locking issue was due to a faulty antenna diversity module. They replaced both the battery and the diversity module. Now the radio and locks work great.
#189
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Here's the how-to. I recommend anyone who have the "glass pops open on its own accord and glasslid button only works occasionally, or not at all" problem, to replace the microswitch at a cost of EUR 24 and 15 minutes work BEFORE spending hours trying to take the rear hatch apart in order to check the integrity of the wires. Let me know if you have any feedback to the pictorial.
Okey I didn't do it myself - I bought the switch (37 euro here
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So I kind of took the risk, repaired the cheap part - thought it's about 50/50 will it fix it or. So maybe I was just lucky (this time)
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#190
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I've had a failing rear brake light (in the spoiler), so yesterday I followed the guide and fixed the broken cables. The battery was disconnected during the operation.
This morning when I started the car it said "high level of battery discharge" something I've never seen before... Could it be a low battery or just an error after I disconnected the battery ?
This morning when I started the car it said "high level of battery discharge" something I've never seen before... Could it be a low battery or just an error after I disconnected the battery ?