senorruiz

Thanks to everyone for all the experience and info on this topic across all the threads. This sheds light on the issues I am seeing as well.

I have a 2006 w/ sunroof manufactured in 2/2006. Similar to everyone else my issues are key not working, tailgate not fully raising, and electrical fault warnings. Dealer found water in the spare wheel area that damaged the HKL module and SDARS module and is attributing it to leakage in the sunroof cassette.

Dealer wants to reseal (not replace) the cassette which they are quoting at $1822 (11 hours of labor)....seems like a lot of labor and the most expensive option given the other potential culprits (bad seal and/or drain plugs more specifically). Also, if only the sunroof cassette is leaking wouldn?t that just get the headliner wet and not the spare tire area? I haven?t seen any water getting in the cabin.

Does anybody know how much time it takes to reseal the cassette per SIB 54 06 06?

Does anybody have or know where to find SIB RA 54 13 055 -- replacing the sunroof seal (couldn?t find it on this forum or via google)? Doesn?t seem like it should take the dealer more than 1 hr to replace, but curious what the SIB says.

Also curious if they have an approved way of cleaning the drains---or maybe they just come here to find the DiY instructions..

Thanks to all in advance.

jdh_e61

Thanks for all the great info.

Balla

Thank you all for helping me change my seal!

Just wanted to add this good video to this old thread(how initialise sunroof): https://wiki.bentleypublishers.com/display/tech/Sunroof+Initialization+BMW+5+Series+E60+E61+(video )


Balla

1Animal1

Thanks to everyone in this thread - I've just taken delivery of my new seal and will be fitting it this weekend

1Animal1

Balls, they have ordered me the wrong bit...i am now the proud owner of a useless bit of felt that fits somewhere under the sunroof

kerrys914

Seal replaced today and things are MUCH better now. The old seal did not want to come off without a fight. Spent about an hour getting the old 3M stick tape off the car.
The only thing I wasn't ready for was the small/large balls of glue from me getting the tape off the car. Some of them dropped down(the ones I couldn't grab) to the water tray. I need to blow some air around to see if I can get them to fly out and recheck for proper drainage.

Placing painters tape down below the seal might have caught some of the pieces I missed.

Over all not too bad of a DIY.

1Animal1

Question on this - if my roof currently gets stuck in the up position requiring me to manually wind it down (I have just bought a dremel to fix) - will i be able to change the seal and do the initialization process before doing the dremel fix to the rear glass. I only ask as i am hopeful that the new seal and initialization will hopefully fix the rear glass closing problem (long shot)

mmitev

New seal won't fix the closing problem, that's 99% certain.
When changing the seal, you only need to lift the roof once, to clean the glue from the old seal. So yes, its not a problem to change the seal before fixing the lifting/closing function.

1Animal1

cheers MM - I was more worried about the initialization process afterwards, with it sticking in the up position.... will it be able to complete the process with the sticking issue - i had read that the process removes the anti trap function while its cycling through, so i had guessed the sticking wouldnt have happened

mmitev

1. dont know the answer of that, but mine also has the sticking problem and this is how I always close it: press the button forward for a split-second. the roof moves down maybe 1-2 mm, not more. repeat this 10 times, and at some point the mechanism circumvents the anti-trap point, and closes. try this on yours.

2. I have done the initialisation a few times without the roof remaining tilted. this can mean that when initialising, it does indeed completely ignore the anti-trap function.