Rotor Recommendations
#12
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My Ride: 2010 e61 535xi 6MT, 1999 e36/8 M Coupe
Model Year: 2010, 1999
Engine: N54, S52
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Thanks to all for the responses. You all have unloaded some good info.
#13
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My Ride: 2010 e61 535xi 6MT, 1999 e36/8 M Coupe
Model Year: 2010, 1999
Engine: N54, S52
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I'm a fan of aggressive pads and the cheapest rotors I can find. Nothing like the feel of an aggressive pad that gets more bite on a rotor the hotter it gets, opposed to fade from a standard OEM pad.
I've found no difference in lifespan or stopping power of a cheap rotor to an expensive one. I like the Zimmerman Z-coat because I don't have to paint the hats. I've used the cheapest Chinese rotors I can find for my trucks. I've never had a pad out live a rotor and I replace rotors when I replace the pads.
I've used Axxis Ultimates (also sold as PBR Ultimates) on Audis and BMWs for many years. When these are not available for my application I use EBC Yellowstuff. (e.g. Chevrolet Trucks). I'm also running EBC's on my E61 M5 brake conversion. Both of these pads are in no way low dust, they are however almost immune to heat fade. Nothing scarier than brake fade when hot stopping a car from triple digits or a truck with a 10,000# trailer on the back.
I'm a firm believer in pad bedding. I've used Stop Tech's recommended procedure for many years on lots of different cars and trucks.
I also subscribe to Stop Tech's The "Warped" Brake Disc and Other Myths of the Braking System information. If my brakes are hot, I leave enough space in front to allow me to creep rather than clamping a pad to a hot rotor during a stop.
I've found no difference in lifespan or stopping power of a cheap rotor to an expensive one. I like the Zimmerman Z-coat because I don't have to paint the hats. I've used the cheapest Chinese rotors I can find for my trucks. I've never had a pad out live a rotor and I replace rotors when I replace the pads.
I've used Axxis Ultimates (also sold as PBR Ultimates) on Audis and BMWs for many years. When these are not available for my application I use EBC Yellowstuff. (e.g. Chevrolet Trucks). I'm also running EBC's on my E61 M5 brake conversion. Both of these pads are in no way low dust, they are however almost immune to heat fade. Nothing scarier than brake fade when hot stopping a car from triple digits or a truck with a 10,000# trailer on the back.
I'm a firm believer in pad bedding. I've used Stop Tech's recommended procedure for many years on lots of different cars and trucks.
I also subscribe to Stop Tech's The "Warped" Brake Disc and Other Myths of the Braking System information. If my brakes are hot, I leave enough space in front to allow me to creep rather than clamping a pad to a hot rotor during a stop.
#14
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My Ride: '08 E61
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Thanks for the Stop Tech references. I learned a lot today through their White Papers. I have read much controversy about EBC brakes in my research over the past few days. You are the third to say that the Yellow Stuff, specifically, performed well. Have you purchased any pads with the GEOMET coating?
The EBC pads come with a red break-in coating on them, but I use Stoptech's brake in procedure, rather than EBC's, so I make short work of the coating.
I started using the EBC Yellowstuff on trucks years ago after being amazed at the stopping power of aggressive pads on my cars. The difference in stopping power when pulling a heavy load with the trucks is amazing.
Axxis (PBR) Ultimates and EBC Yellowstuff are very similar IMO. Comparable products from Hawk and Stoptech, etc. probably all perform similarly. The difference is a stock pad that produces scary brake fade when hot to a pad that has more and more bite the hotter it gets.
I think that there are different pads for different folks. My daughter likes the ceramic, low dust pads on her Tahoe. The OEM pads have close to 100K miles on them...amazing. I take them apart every 15K miles and clean the slides and they just keep going.
Bottom line for me...I'm willing to clean wheels and change brakes more often for the extra stopping power of aggressive pads. I've never been able to tell the difference in braking from one rotor to the next.
#15
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My Ride: 2010 e61 535xi 6MT, 1999 e36/8 M Coupe
Model Year: 2010, 1999
Engine: N54, S52
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Not familiar with GEOMET coating on pads. A quick search turned up info on their rotor coating that prevents rust. Sounds similar to Zimmerman's Z-coat. As I mentioned earlier, I tend to buy the cheapest rotors I can find. For my work trucks this tends to be "no name" made in China stuff...I've never had a problem with them. I usually tape off the rotor face with blue tape and spray a couple of coats of high-temperature grill paint on the hats. Works well to keep them from looking rusty, but I live in an area that might salt the roads twice a year.
The EBC pads come with a red break-in coating on them, but I use Stoptech's brake in procedure, rather than EBC's, so I make short work of the coating.
I started using the EBC Yellowstuff on trucks years ago after being amazed at the stopping power of aggressive pads on my cars. The difference in stopping power when pulling a heavy load with the trucks is amazing.
Axxis (PBR) Ultimates and EBC Yellowstuff are very similar IMO. Comparable products from Hawk and Stoptech, etc. probably all perform similarly. The difference is a stock pad that produces scary brake fade when hot to a pad that has more and more bite the hotter it gets.
I think that there are different pads for different folks. My daughter likes the ceramic, low dust pads on her Tahoe. The OEM pads have close to 100K miles on them...amazing. I take them apart every 15K miles and clean the slides and they just keep going.
Bottom line for me...I'm willing to clean wheels and change brakes more often for the extra stopping power of aggressive pads. I've never been able to tell the difference in braking from one rotor to the next.
The EBC pads come with a red break-in coating on them, but I use Stoptech's brake in procedure, rather than EBC's, so I make short work of the coating.
I started using the EBC Yellowstuff on trucks years ago after being amazed at the stopping power of aggressive pads on my cars. The difference in stopping power when pulling a heavy load with the trucks is amazing.
Axxis (PBR) Ultimates and EBC Yellowstuff are very similar IMO. Comparable products from Hawk and Stoptech, etc. probably all perform similarly. The difference is a stock pad that produces scary brake fade when hot to a pad that has more and more bite the hotter it gets.
I think that there are different pads for different folks. My daughter likes the ceramic, low dust pads on her Tahoe. The OEM pads have close to 100K miles on them...amazing. I take them apart every 15K miles and clean the slides and they just keep going.
Bottom line for me...I'm willing to clean wheels and change brakes more often for the extra stopping power of aggressive pads. I've never been able to tell the difference in braking from one rotor to the next.
#16
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My Ride: 2010, E61, 535i xDrive
Model Year: 2010
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I always thought one selects cross drilled rotors for faster cooling not for stopping power. Stopping power is a function of calipers (more pistons the better) and pads. Additionally, cross drilled rotors look nicer than normal rotors (that is only a bonus for those who see it that way)
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#17
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My Ride: 2010 e61 535xi 6MT, 1999 e36/8 M Coupe
Model Year: 2010, 1999
Engine: N54, S52
![Default](https://5series.net/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I always thought one selects cross drilled rotors for faster cooling not for stopping power. Stopping power is a function of calipers (more pistons the better) and pads. Additionally, cross drilled rotors look nicer than normal rotors (that is only a bonus for those who see it that way) ![Wink](https://5series.net/forums/images/smilies/imported/wink.gif)
![Wink](https://5series.net/forums/images/smilies/imported/wink.gif)
Then I noticed that ECS sells StopTech cross-drilled rotors and was momentarily confused. Upon further research, it became apparent that cross-drilling can still positively contribute if you increase rotor size without increasing pad area. In other words, if you generate the same amount of heat (same pad area) and increase rotor size, then you are increasing the amount of rotor mass which gives you buffer to remove mass by cross-drilling.
Agreed on the elements for stopping power
#18
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I always thought one selects cross drilled rotors for faster cooling not for stopping power. Stopping power is a function of calipers (more pistons the better) and pads. Additionally, cross drilled rotors look nicer than normal rotors (that is only a bonus for those who see it that way) ![Wink](https://5series.net/forums/images/smilies/imported/wink.gif)
![Wink](https://5series.net/forums/images/smilies/imported/wink.gif)
More pistons does not equal more power, caliper piston vs master cylinder piston surface area is what determines "power". Multiple pistons aids in even pressure on the pad surface.
As hatterasman stated, pads are important, rotors not so much for a daily driver other than looks. Even on race cars I have run $12 rotors with no issues. However I will spend money to get the pedal feel and fade resistance of a good pad.
The Stoptech whitepapers are a great resource to decipher what is BS.
#20
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