timmay77

I second ECS Tuning rotors. I've had them on my car for almost 2 years, still no rust. When it is time to replace them, I will go back to ECS......

apaisncsu

Thanks to all for the responses. You all have unloaded some good info.

apaisncsu

Thanks for the Stop Tech references. I learned a lot today through their White Papers. I have read much controversy about EBC brakes in my research over the past few days. You are the third to say that the Yellow Stuff, specifically, performed well. Have you purchased any pads with the GEOMET coating?

hatterasman

Not familiar with GEOMET coating on pads. A quick search turned up info on their rotor coating that prevents rust. Sounds similar to Zimmerman's Z-coat. As I mentioned earlier, I tend to buy the cheapest rotors I can find. For my work trucks this tends to be "no name" made in China stuff...I've never had a problem with them. I usually tape off the rotor face with blue tape and spray a couple of coats of high-temperature grill paint on the hats. Works well to keep them from looking rusty, but I live in an area that might salt the roads twice a year.

The EBC pads come with a red break-in coating on them, but I use Stoptech's brake in procedure, rather than EBC's, so I make short work of the coating.

I started using the EBC Yellowstuff on trucks years ago after being amazed at the stopping power of aggressive pads on my cars. The difference in stopping power when pulling a heavy load with the trucks is amazing.

Axxis (PBR) Ultimates and EBC Yellowstuff are very similar IMO. Comparable products from Hawk and Stoptech, etc. probably all perform similarly. The difference is a stock pad that produces scary brake fade when hot to a pad that has more and more bite the hotter it gets.

I think that there are different pads for different folks. My daughter likes the ceramic, low dust pads on her Tahoe. The OEM pads have close to 100K miles on them...amazing. I take them apart every 15K miles and clean the slides and they just keep going.

Bottom line for me...I'm willing to clean wheels and change brakes more often for the extra stopping power of aggressive pads. I've never been able to tell the difference in braking from one rotor to the next.

apaisncsu

Thanks for the additional info. After reading the StopTech papers today, I will likely use their bed-in advice. The ECS rotors with the GEOMET coating are not very expensive, so I will likely give them a shot and report back.

pocholin

I always thought one selects cross drilled rotors for faster cooling not for stopping power. Stopping power is a function of calipers (more pistons the better) and pads. Additionally, cross drilled rotors look nicer than normal rotors (that is only a bonus for those who see it that way)

apaisncsu

StopTech's docs on their website essentially say that cross-drilled rotors are becoming a thing of the past because while they seem to allow for easier escape of gasses and more cooling the drilling of the holes actually remove material that is intended to absorb and dissipate heat. What eventually happens is cracking because there is not enough rotor mass to handle the heat while it is being dissipated.

Then I noticed that ECS sells StopTech cross-drilled rotors and was momentarily confused. Upon further research, it became apparent that cross-drilling can still positively contribute if you increase rotor size without increasing pad area. In other words, if you generate the same amount of heat (same pad area) and increase rotor size, then you are increasing the amount of rotor mass which gives you buffer to remove mass by cross-drilling.

Agreed on the elements for stopping power

JeffVT

Stopping distance is a function of tires as any stock brake system can lock the wheels with ease (ignore ABS). Repeated hard braking capability is a function of pads. Rotor mass, materials and venting aid in cooling reducing the need for pads with higher temperature thresholds.

More pistons does not equal more power, caliper piston vs master cylinder piston surface area is what determines "power". Multiple pistons aids in even pressure on the pad surface.

As hatterasman stated, pads are important, rotors not so much for a daily driver other than looks. Even on race cars I have run $12 rotors with no issues. However I will spend money to get the pedal feel and fade resistance of a good pad.

The Stoptech whitepapers are a great resource to decipher what is BS.

pocholin

Thanks guys, I stand corrected...and cross-drilled rotors still look better than the solid ones. ;-)

FormerE30Owner

Not if they are cracked!