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- The regulated voltage (engine running, battery charged, accessories and light OFF) is usually between 13.2 and 14.5 depending on temperature and operating conditions. If the voltage is higher than 14.8, the voltage regulator is most likely faulty.
Umm when I said this, it meant the alternator was bad.
Ok, now I am a bit confused, should I replace alternator (a pricey option) or just voltage regulator (not so pricey)? Is there ay other way to check which one is faulty without getting new voltage regulator?
nb yours will cut off at a higher voltage than in that example.
Or since you have it out you could ask an auto elec to test it for you.
If it is true that you saw 15V during earlier testing then that is a sign the regulator is faulty, and regulators are a common failure item, to the point where some people replace them before they fail just as maintenance.
nb yours will cut off at a higher voltage than in that example.
Or since you have it out you could ask an auto elec to test it for you.
If it is true that you saw 15V during earlier testing then that is a sign the regulator is faulty, and regulators are a common failure item, to the point where some people replace them before they fail just as maintenance.
Thanks for sharing this information. I can definitely check it with my bench top power supply at work. I checked the diodes pack and they turned out to be fine, one way giving 0.78V vs out of range when reversed.
Just tested the regulator using a variable power supply by connecting as shown and the voltage at the brushes didn't cut off even at 15 - 16VDC and there is no current draw being shown on the power supply.
Ordered a genuine Bosch replacement regulator via free 2 day air shipping, FedEx took liberty in changing the shipping to 12 day air. Anyways, it was delivered yesterday, installed last night, drain went back to ~0A with the supply to the trunk fuse box disconnected.
Turned on the car (not engine), cleared all the codes. Turned off and on again and left it On for 5min, then read errors again, the only two errors I see at the moment are DSC-6F51 (kind of error E4) and MMI/CCC-C508 (60) and 4x4 error on the dashboard. Looking up on the net, it looks like steering angle sensor, in that case, shouldn't be there an error in SZL as well?
Any suggestions? I don't want to drive it out of the garage just to find out that it wont start again and being unable to bring it back into the garage.
Ordered a genuine Bosch replacement regulator via free 2 day air shipping, FedEx took liberty in changing the shipping to 12 day air. Anyways, it was delivered yesterday, installed last night, drain went back to ~0A with the supply to the trunk fuse box disconnected.
Turned on the car (not engine), cleared all the codes. Turned off and on again and left it On for 5min, then read errors again, the only two errors I see at the moment are DSC-6F51 (kind of error E4) and MMI/CCC-C508 (60) and 4x4 error on the dashboard. Looking up on the net, it looks like steering angle sensor, in that case, shouldn't be there an error in SZL as well?
Any suggestions? I don't want to drive it out of the garage just to find out that it wont start again and being unable to bring it back into the garage.
thanks
4x4 on the dashboard is probably just needing to start the car and turn the wheel lock-to-lock. That happens when you take power away from the car.
If it is an SZL issue the the other two errors are common. Have you read the error messages via INPA. I see the error code you posted but there should be a message giving you more info. If the SZL was bad you would definitely have a code for that
02-20-2021, 01:52 PM
