From my experience that is the correct BMW Part Number for the hub. You will need all the items listed below on Real OEM although you could get away with reusing the Torx bolts (#3) BMW recommends replacing them and I ended up doing so just because I removed and reinstalled them so many times while doing the brake upgrade. You certainly will need a new collar nut (#4).
RealOEM.com * BMW E60 M5 SIDE SHAFT/WHEEL BEARINGS

The brakes I bought off another forum member had 1 loose bearing so I replaced it with one of these: BMW Rear Wheel Bearing ES 2184796 | eBay

...and from my research there is no difference between the non-M and M5 bearings for the E60. Find the cheapest OEM ones you can.

I hope this helps.


.....Getting back on topic.....

My front wheels are back after being remachined by Forgestar, Rubber is mounted and wheels are installed! As a refresher:

Forgestar F14 SDC - Textured Gunmetal
FRONT: 19x9.5 et23ish Hankook V12 245/40
REAR: 19x10 et30ish Hankook V12 275/35

Since the rear M5 hubs changed my offsets by about 20mm (ordered wheels before brake upgrade ) There is a 12mm spacer on the rear but I am swapping them out to a 20mm.

I am happy with the fitment on the front, there is no rubbing at all and I didn't need to do any fender work on the OEM M5 fenders. Rears should be perfect after the new spacers get on, the new wheels sit about 3mm inward compared to my old Miros (19x9.5 et20) but they have more tire stretch with a 255/40 on a 9.5" vs the Forgestars running 275/35 on 10" The added tire width and higher offset should cancel out with an extra millimeter or so of clearance... which is all I need! We will see.

I also threw on some studs: 75mm front and 90mm rear. I have some winter specific wheels I plan on throwing on for trips to the snow, assuming the Sierra Nevadas actually get some snow this winter.


Sorry for the poor photos, I will get some better ones after the spacers are installed.

Evan

 

Nice. For the 20 mm spacers, are you getting the normal hubcentric type with extended bolts, or the type that bolts to the hub? I've heard the latter is a better way to go with spacers that are bigger, like 15 mm+

 

Spacers are "normal" hubcentric H&Rs. I am running 90mm studs in the rear which are means to accommodate up to a 20mm spacer so it should all work seamlessly.

Evan

 

I ordered the same PN for the hubs from RMEuropean. I signed up for their rewards program when I ordered new front rotors, so I received an additional discount.

I ordered M5 rear bearings from ECSTuning since I didn't want to deal with returing them in case 535xi bearings didn't fit.

As to not take away from Evan's thread, feel free to PM me if you need further details.

Evan - It's about time you posted pics with the new wheels! I've read all about them and the aggressive sizing, but they look awesome from your pics! What's next on your build? With the sale of your M5, I assuming RBs

I'm hoping to install these AR DPs myself in the next few weeks…

 

At this point, effort will be spent on fixing some of the quirks of the car...

My CCC iDrive is dead, I get the splash screen for 10 seconds and then whole system reboots, the cycle continues forever. I think this means the system is kaput so I am looking to replace the unit with one that works. They seem to run $500-$1,000 which is murder, there is the option to upgrade to a CIC unit but that will be more Infotainment than I need. If my stereo works and I am able to see the screen for climate controls, I am a happy man.

My 3rd brake light is out and my power gate normally fully opens after 2 or 3 attempts which leads me to believe the wiring harness for the rear door is cut through. Gotta fix this.

There is a clunking coming from the front suspension. Braking system is all good, coilovers are secured, Thrust arm bushing were replaced 2,000 miles ago, I am not sure what it could be (although I have not dedicated any serious time to trouble shooting).

Most annoying is my transmission: there is a significant delay between pedal input/engine revs and the transmission actually translating that into forward movement, it makes driving the car in smooth manner and if you give the car some healthy throttle off the line the delay/clunk is downright concerning. Similar symptoms can be noticed when upshifting and downshifting; sometimes when coming to a stop the 2-1 downshift feels like the car behind me rear-ended me at 3mph with pillows strapped to it's bumper. I pray to the heavens BMW acknowledges the symptoms and replaces the unit, so far there has been to code thrown for the tranny. I have 1/2 a mind to thrash the thing until it breaks. My warranty is up next summer.

I also may have a boost leak; time to check the vacuum hoses.

HPFP may need replacing (again).

After one trip to Tahoe with some snow/salt road conditions my front bumper looks, well, terrible, pitted like crazy, there was definitely something wrong with the paint durability. My novice assessment is the paint was not cured properly or maybe they sprayed water instead of a clear coat (that was a joke). I have known Long from LTMW for a while and he said they would take care of me. This is added to the list now too.

So other than that, the car is all good!

Evan

 

very nice car , but i'm happy with this






i'm going to wrap my roof ,i think yours looks great,and fit a standed rear bumper , so i can fit a bitter defuser

 

@ ucsbwsr - Do you have pics of the regular fender vs. M5 ones? Like before / after pics of the car?

 

@davewhitt: As you should be.

@Lotus99: I never really took accurate before and after pictures. If you look at pictures when my car had the stock front bumper and fenders on (they were upgraded at the same time) you can see how that Miro wheels look sitting in those fenders vs more recent photos when the M5 bumper and fenders were on (before the Forgestar wheels).

There are some members on this board who have photo documented the swap better than I. It is roughly a +10mm width difference per fender. Hope this helps.

Evan

 

When you had installed KW coilovers, did you replace your rear upper mounts? If you did, did you replace it with new OEM or aftermarket?

 

The OEM mounts were reused.