ucsbwsr

I am currently running the AWD subframe. The front axles were disassembled at the outer CVs and the ends (cups + splines) were reinserted to hold the steering knuckles together. I plan to convert to the RWD subframe as it will allow me to run the M5 steering rack and the fast ratio I am looking for the the conversion is a little involved since along with the subframe engine mounts, control arms, wheels carriers, lower steering shaft, steering rack, etc. all need to be swapped. The benefits of the RWD subframe is it's aluminum construction which saves ~20lbs and the better steering racks you can run, if neither of those things are important to you then I would just run it as I do now, it works just fine if you can stand the 1x1.18 steering ratio.
Never tried but it would require tons of fender work and a silly amount of tire stretch and negative camber, I like flush fitment with ample tire meat and ideally very little negative camber so the M5 fenders were the obvious choice for me.

BTW, do you mind editing your post and removing the quote with all the photos, I would appreciate it as it helps keep me thread more manageable for people to read through. It is long enough so I try to keep duplicate photos to a minimum, thanks.
Correct!

jadedj

Car is sick

07tundra

Is there anywhere in this build where he mentions offset of the wheels or does anyone know what offsets work? Wondering what et to get them flush without spacers though not looking for the stanced look either, i'm fine with rolling or shaving also.

amesser325

Not sure if he mentions the offset, but I know they're 19s by maybe 9, so fairly small offset. Stock M5 wheels are 19 x 8.5 Fr ET12, 19 x 9.5 Rr ET28, and if used on a 2WD car would stick out 10mm as well (hence why M5 fenders are wider).

I put a set of Style 124s in 18 x 8 ET20 (2WD wheels) on my xiT, and they stuck out of the stock fenders ~5-10mm. Not obscene but noticeable. No fender rub. Installing M5 fenders that are 10mm wider made them perfectly aligned.
Not hijacking his thread but I ended up retrofitting all the 2WD parts (which are common between all 2WD variants - M, non-M) to my car, which reduced the wheel track. In order to keep the same fitment and avoid interference with the suspension I had to add 20mm spacers.

Why are you trying to avoid spacers? I understand the ~increased wear on wheel bearings, etc but it's likely you'll have to give up something to get a particular look, whether it's handling crispness, extra WB wear, tramlining, etc.

Cheers,

Andy

ucsbwsr

Thanks
The info is in the thread, somewhere. I run M5 fenders and M5 brakes so my current specs are not going to be very helpful
19x9.5 et20 (maybe?) 19x11 et12

The Miros were pretty flush in the front at 9.5 et33 9.5 @ et27ish would be pretty flush out back.

ucsbwsr

Alright guys, I am back from the dead. Time to continue this build.

Nearly a year ago I got in a fender bender with a lady who thought it would be a great idea to pull out in front of me (in my clear merge lane) and just STOP! I did my best to avoid her but couldn't. The E61 took a good wack in the passenger headlight area but it looks like there is no major chassis damage. The E61 has sat for many months

The hood, bumper cover, fender, and headlight are all toast but can be replaced easily. The main damage is to the sub fender and the support located behind the headlight which connects the sub fender to the radiator support. Currently I am in the process of talking with local repair shops and getting quotes for this work, the plan is to have them execute the structural repairs and I will handle all the nuts and bolts. I will also try to source AW E60 M5 body parts to swap on, the backup will be to source any E60 M5 body parts and have them painted AW.

Since I didn't know how long the repair was going to take I picked up a "beater" E39 540iT to run in the meantime. Naturally it has received some necessary maintenance and "necessary" modifications such as KWV1s, E60 hub conversion, and Style 163 wheels, along with some other unnecessary modifications such as an upgraded stereo, modified headlights, and a 7-series comfort seat retrofit.

This will be up for sale after the E61 is fixed. Ideally I would like to do a manual trans swap on the E39 before selling because A) it would be awesome and it should greatly strengthen resale value.

Here is the E39 Touring "DAS VADR"


Last pic before the accident


Pics of the damage

sterile stork

An update to your thread! Many sincere apologies about the damage to your E61, however as this lengthy thread would indicate, your long-roof will rise & drive again

spazzz

Duplicate right headlight build?
Those retros are killer beams.

ucsbwsr

Yes, it will be back. I have a lot invested in this car and built it to own/drive/enjoy for a long time so there is much to be done.
Essentially yes, I built the headlights up with the best-of-the-best components and I haven't come across anything better so the build will look essentially the same.

spazzz

I did my other car with the Morimoto D2S 3.0 with the XB55 ballast but man,you have that quad setup down.
I am content with CBIs in the stock fuzzy cutoff fresnel lens projector of this car.