Evan's E61 Build: Pics, Updates, and Wagon Love for All
#381
Thread Starter
Members
Senior Members
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 899
Likes: 13
From: San Diego
My Ride: E61 with all the mods
Model Year: 2008
Engine: N54
----------------
Sorting through the rants nest that is M5 spec ABS/DSC hardlines which are pre bent (except the 2 rear lines which oddly came from Germany straight) but unfortunately every single port is different between the 535i RWD DSC and M5 DSC, big oversight on my part. #RetrofittingProblems
With my bare hands and a socket I was able to get the 2 rear lines and 1 line from the master cylinder bent and connected to the pump, they are not pretty but should work just fine. The other 3 lines had mismatching fitting diameters so Mesa Hose in Costa Mesa, CA is cutting my M5 hardlines and welding on some AN fitting which will be connected to a couple 8" SS soft lines so I can connect everything.
Once this is done I can reinstall the M5 brakes (Rotoras will wait) and bleed the brakes + clutch.
Bending hardlines
Label twice
Removing the front right hard line was a real peach (sarcasm) as I needed to remove the coolant lines and AC lines which run through the firewall amongst other things. I hate taking 1 step back to take 2 steps forward.
Hard lines bent and connected for master cylinder feed and R+L rear brakes lines. Fittings installed for the remaining ports in anticipation for the flexible lines.
My tips which were some cheapo black powdercoated slash cut tips were showing signs of wear from the heat.
So I sanded them down and hit them with a fresh coat of some ceramic engine enamel, we will see how it holds up.
Some details of the Y-pipe on my exhaust system. Welding is cool.
#382
Thread Starter
Members
Senior Members
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 899
Likes: 13
From: San Diego
My Ride: E61 with all the mods
Model Year: 2008
Engine: N54
Picked up the hydraulic lines from Mesa Hose. Hard lines were cut and had fitting welded on and they made 3 flexible lines to connect my hard lines to the ABS pump which had -AN bubble flare fittings.
The hardlines were exposed from the welding process so I taped them off and hit them with some Plasti Dip for protection.
They fit
Not the prettiest of of setups but thankfully this is now tucked away and out of the engine bay.
With the ABS/DSC now connected I could reinstall the brakes (again).
When you realize your mountain bike has better brakes than your car.
Wheel liner installed and DSC pump forever out of sight.
Time to bleed the brakes and clutch. Brakes were initially bled in the traditional manner with a Motiv pressure bleeder.
I tried to run the "Brake System" bleeding procedure in INPA where the ABS pump systematically activates to expel small air bubbles but of course since I have a RWD DSC pump in a US spec E61 where DSC modules were never fitted I ran into an issue getting the RWD module coded to my car. @levani was a huge help in getting my car to recognize the pump and even tracked down some INPA software files so I could have diagnostic capabilities (even if the files were in German). I Google translated my way and found the procedure but unfortunately it didn't work which is ok since I can always get this done later with other means.
Bleeding the clutch has given me all kinds of problems. Pressure bleeding against gravity didn't work. I also tried hand bleeding the slave cylinder with the clutch both retracted and extended. The only thing I haven't done is reverse bleed. Not sure why these BMW clutches have to be so difficult, while researching it online it appears to be a common theme.
As it is now, my clutch pedal is light/dead for the first 40% of travel, at about 50-60% travel I can hear the clutch being activated and the annoying upgrade clutch noise cease however I need to give the clutch >95% travel to get it to activate properly and once the gear is selected engagement starts REALLY early, well when about 5% of travel is used releasing the clutch pedal. I will be playing around with it more today.
Open DP cold starts were getting old for the neighbors so it was time to put the exhaust back in. I took the opportunity to lightly sand down the piping and remove any remaining charred oil marks and cooling droplets from when the engine blew.
Can you tell which section I sanded?
Ceramic coated ***, dirty merge collector, clean section 2 and 3.
Sways were reinstalled with some other necessary braces since my wagon is getting ready to support it's own weight. It looks like RD Sport went under so I had no way of getting the fancy proprietary teflon based bushing lubricant, so I referenced by friend the internet and it told me to use liberal amounts of Mobile 1 synthetic grease, so I did. If it squeaks then I will find another solution.
Off the jackstands!
Ta Da!
After a quick waterless wash.
The hardlines were exposed from the welding process so I taped them off and hit them with some Plasti Dip for protection.
They fit
Not the prettiest of of setups but thankfully this is now tucked away and out of the engine bay.
With the ABS/DSC now connected I could reinstall the brakes (again).
When you realize your mountain bike has better brakes than your car.
Wheel liner installed and DSC pump forever out of sight.
Time to bleed the brakes and clutch. Brakes were initially bled in the traditional manner with a Motiv pressure bleeder.
I tried to run the "Brake System" bleeding procedure in INPA where the ABS pump systematically activates to expel small air bubbles but of course since I have a RWD DSC pump in a US spec E61 where DSC modules were never fitted I ran into an issue getting the RWD module coded to my car. @levani was a huge help in getting my car to recognize the pump and even tracked down some INPA software files so I could have diagnostic capabilities (even if the files were in German). I Google translated my way and found the procedure but unfortunately it didn't work which is ok since I can always get this done later with other means.
Bleeding the clutch has given me all kinds of problems. Pressure bleeding against gravity didn't work. I also tried hand bleeding the slave cylinder with the clutch both retracted and extended. The only thing I haven't done is reverse bleed. Not sure why these BMW clutches have to be so difficult, while researching it online it appears to be a common theme.
As it is now, my clutch pedal is light/dead for the first 40% of travel, at about 50-60% travel I can hear the clutch being activated and the annoying upgrade clutch noise cease however I need to give the clutch >95% travel to get it to activate properly and once the gear is selected engagement starts REALLY early, well when about 5% of travel is used releasing the clutch pedal. I will be playing around with it more today.
Open DP cold starts were getting old for the neighbors so it was time to put the exhaust back in. I took the opportunity to lightly sand down the piping and remove any remaining charred oil marks and cooling droplets from when the engine blew.
Can you tell which section I sanded?
Ceramic coated ***, dirty merge collector, clean section 2 and 3.
Sways were reinstalled with some other necessary braces since my wagon is getting ready to support it's own weight. It looks like RD Sport went under so I had no way of getting the fancy proprietary teflon based bushing lubricant, so I referenced by friend the internet and it told me to use liberal amounts of Mobile 1 synthetic grease, so I did. If it squeaks then I will find another solution.
Off the jackstands!
Ta Da!
After a quick waterless wash.
#383
Thread Starter
Members
Senior Members
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 899
Likes: 13
From: San Diego
My Ride: E61 with all the mods
Model Year: 2008
Engine: N54
Rear axle nuts were torqued to spec (as hard as possible without snapping the breaker bar) since the car is now on the ground.
Rebled the clutch again (again again) and achieved more satisfactory results, might do it again down the line. Used some plumbers tape and zip ties instead of the $180 BMW Special tool.
Spec 3+ clutch and SMFW were making an odd mechanical groaning noise NOT THE DIESEL CHATTER (which everyone kept telling me even though I already specified it was a different noise). I think something was sticking as the groan was linked to rotation and magically stopped happening with a couple clutch engagements, it popped up again and then disappeared, components were installed dry as per instructions so I will keep my eye on it.
Rear pull rods got a fresh coat of paint and were installed with the strut brace, you can see why I needed to trim the large heat sink on the M5 LSD.
Engine bay is not fully reassembled with PCV, OCC, strut brace, and cooling shroud reinstalled. It looks SO much better with the DSC pump out of there, really happy with the results.
Blue painter's tape was removed from them fenders. +5hp.
Rebled the clutch again (again again) and achieved more satisfactory results, might do it again down the line. Used some plumbers tape and zip ties instead of the $180 BMW Special tool.
Spec 3+ clutch and SMFW were making an odd mechanical groaning noise NOT THE DIESEL CHATTER (which everyone kept telling me even though I already specified it was a different noise). I think something was sticking as the groan was linked to rotation and magically stopped happening with a couple clutch engagements, it popped up again and then disappeared, components were installed dry as per instructions so I will keep my eye on it.
Rear pull rods got a fresh coat of paint and were installed with the strut brace, you can see why I needed to trim the large heat sink on the M5 LSD.
Engine bay is not fully reassembled with PCV, OCC, strut brace, and cooling shroud reinstalled. It looks SO much better with the DSC pump out of there, really happy with the results.
Blue painter's tape was removed from them fenders. +5hp.
#386
Thread Starter
Members
Senior Members
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 899
Likes: 13
From: San Diego
My Ride: E61 with all the mods
Model Year: 2008
Engine: N54
For the interior I have done a few things like convert it from FULL cream beige to a black/beige hybrid with black carpet, center console, custom door cards, M5 door handle, black seat belts, b-pillar trim, lower door trim, and black floor/cargo mats.
The M5 steering wheel is already done as is the upgraded stereo and additional sound deadening.
Future plans include:
- custom gated shifter
- oem brushed aluminum trim
- new driver seat cushion
- bluetooth integration
- pano roof delete
#387
Thread Starter
Members
Senior Members
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 899
Likes: 13
From: San Diego
My Ride: E61 with all the mods
Model Year: 2008
Engine: N54
Snuck down the street to a local father/son repair shop to have them fabricate a transmission mount.
While the wagon was on a lift I snapped a couple pics of the undercarriage.
Completed trans support built to connect my oem 535xi Transfer case support mounting points to the 335i trans and UUC mounts. It is just what I wanted: reliable, serviceable, and economical. Strictly business.
My pedal trim needed to have a slit cut to allow for clutch pedal travel. A dremel made quick work of that. As you can see the foam piece was already there for the 3rd pedal.
I would almost rather install turbos than this center console, I hate it.
BEFORE
AFTER
At last, a manual transmission.
While the wagon was on a lift I snapped a couple pics of the undercarriage.
Completed trans support built to connect my oem 535xi Transfer case support mounting points to the 335i trans and UUC mounts. It is just what I wanted: reliable, serviceable, and economical. Strictly business.
My pedal trim needed to have a slit cut to allow for clutch pedal travel. A dremel made quick work of that. As you can see the foam piece was already there for the 3rd pedal.
I would almost rather install turbos than this center console, I hate it.
BEFORE
AFTER
At last, a manual transmission.
#388
Thread Starter
Members
Senior Members
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 899
Likes: 13
From: San Diego
My Ride: E61 with all the mods
Model Year: 2008
Engine: N54
With the trans support installed and shake-down period up next I turned my focus to software; pulling module codes, updating JB4/MHD BEFs, and resetting some adaptions
Wagon is currently running 91 pump gas with the port injection by passed and JB4 in Map 5.
Unfortunately it looks like there is a break in the PT-CAN as I have a few errors linked to the SZL and I think my DSC module is the culprit, it no longer shows up in INPA or NCSE. It did before so maybe something came loose when I was finalizing my DSC hydraulic lines? :\
There is also a clutch switch and brake light error which points to wiring for the MT. Reverse lights DO NOT work but wagon starts with clutch pressed in.
As it is the engine feels smooth and strong, I can feel the difference with the new engine mounts, upgraded trans and diff mounts, and my new/reinforced shifter mounts, everything feels tight and vivid without harsh. I get what sounds like a hint of diff whine on decel but that is the only noticeable downside to the firmer bushings.
The wagon makes all the right noises with the Tial BOV and a manual trans. The ST 335xi I drove while my wagon was being worked on has the HKS and I can't stand the noise of that thing, it is borderline embarrassing for me. It sounds like a sneezing hamster where the Tial sounds like, well pressurized air being released. No squeaky toys here.
I sold my old quad projector headlights to a fellow E61 owner which means I have to whip some up for my wagon. My new build will look similar to the last iteration but with a black eyebrow and some REALLY sick HID projectors retrofitted for the low beam, my personal favorite: SC430 projectors.
SC430 output:
Wagon is currently running 91 pump gas with the port injection by passed and JB4 in Map 5.
Unfortunately it looks like there is a break in the PT-CAN as I have a few errors linked to the SZL and I think my DSC module is the culprit, it no longer shows up in INPA or NCSE. It did before so maybe something came loose when I was finalizing my DSC hydraulic lines? :\
There is also a clutch switch and brake light error which points to wiring for the MT. Reverse lights DO NOT work but wagon starts with clutch pressed in.
As it is the engine feels smooth and strong, I can feel the difference with the new engine mounts, upgraded trans and diff mounts, and my new/reinforced shifter mounts, everything feels tight and vivid without harsh. I get what sounds like a hint of diff whine on decel but that is the only noticeable downside to the firmer bushings.
The wagon makes all the right noises with the Tial BOV and a manual trans. The ST 335xi I drove while my wagon was being worked on has the HKS and I can't stand the noise of that thing, it is borderline embarrassing for me. It sounds like a sneezing hamster where the Tial sounds like, well pressurized air being released. No squeaky toys here.
I sold my old quad projector headlights to a fellow E61 owner which means I have to whip some up for my wagon. My new build will look similar to the last iteration but with a black eyebrow and some REALLY sick HID projectors retrofitted for the low beam, my personal favorite: SC430 projectors.
SC430 output:
#390
Thread Starter
Members
Senior Members
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 899
Likes: 13
From: San Diego
My Ride: E61 with all the mods
Model Year: 2008
Engine: N54