Evan's E61 Build: Pics, Updates, and Wagon Love for All
08-10-2016, 07:32 PM
#361
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Thank you @E61FUN
----------------------------------------
Mismatched heater hose on my oil catch can...
...now both Vibrant.
Intercooler installed
Found the M6/M5 ABS/DSC pump brackets I needed on eBay, after a cleaning they look brand new.
Unfortunately 1/3 mounting holes did not align, a drill quickly took care of that.
Mounted
Pump mounted. I am really pleased with how clean it came out. Now all I need are the M5 hard lines and the relocation is complete.
The original 335i transmission output flange
1/2" breaker bar with some adapters and a BIG socket
Nut off
Puller
LEFT: M5 RIGHT: 335i
Replacing rear output seal
Chains, 3/8 extensions, and a breaker bar were my counterhold while torquing to 125lb/ft
M5 output flange installed
M5 guibo and hardware installed
Test fitting and measuring M5 driveshaft
Test fitting shift arm
Transmission support stuff
----------------------------------------
Mismatched heater hose on my oil catch can...
...now both Vibrant.
Intercooler installed
Found the M6/M5 ABS/DSC pump brackets I needed on eBay, after a cleaning they look brand new.
Unfortunately 1/3 mounting holes did not align, a drill quickly took care of that.
Mounted
Pump mounted. I am really pleased with how clean it came out. Now all I need are the M5 hard lines and the relocation is complete.
The original 335i transmission output flange
1/2" breaker bar with some adapters and a BIG socket
Nut off
Puller
LEFT: M5 RIGHT: 335i
Replacing rear output seal
Chains, 3/8 extensions, and a breaker bar were my counterhold while torquing to 125lb/ft
M5 output flange installed
M5 guibo and hardware installed
Test fitting and measuring M5 driveshaft
Test fitting shift arm
Transmission support stuff
08-13-2016, 08:38 AM
#362
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Thread Starter
Picked up some intake ducting from an E60 M5. Chances are good the oem unit flows better than the ducting I made out of aluminum flashing so I will run this but probably fabricate a new and improved scoop. The rear portion of the ducting bolts to the chassis in the oem location, nice.
My dwnpipes and modded RB heat shield are back from receiving their ceramic coating.
Before
After
The engine bay is looking nice and clean with that DSC pump relocated and the new heat shield. CLEAN!
Trans out ...again. Good view of the M5 output flange and guibo.
Minor rust removed frank crank flange with a dremel
MFactory single mass chromoly flywheel
My counter hold as I torque the flywheel
...in the off chance you were wondering about possible damage.
Friction disc
Spec 3+ clutch
New pivot for the throw out fork
My dwnpipes and modded RB heat shield are back from receiving their ceramic coating.
Before
After
The engine bay is looking nice and clean with that DSC pump relocated and the new heat shield. CLEAN!
Trans out ...again. Good view of the M5 output flange and guibo.
Minor rust removed frank crank flange with a dremel
MFactory single mass chromoly flywheel
My counter hold as I torque the flywheel
...in the off chance you were wondering about possible damage.
Friction disc
Spec 3+ clutch
New pivot for the throw out fork
08-13-2016, 09:07 AM
#363
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My Ride: white
Model Year: 1947
Engine: b38
Picked up some intake ducting from an E60 M5. Chances are good the oem unit flows better than the ducting I made out of aluminum flashing so I will run this but probably fabricate a new and improved scoop. The rear portion of the ducting bolts to the chassis in the oem location, nice.
I just took delivery of all the parts to finish my M5 front end conversion. I now have M5 inner fender liners and the M5 lower brake cooling ducts that attach to back of the outer air inlets at the lower corners of the M5 bumper cover. Those brake ducts have "risers", if you will. I wondered if those directed air to the intake on the V10. Yet now I see what you have just posted ^.
Don't your M5 ducts have those risers?
(I think that the ducts are laid out backwards in the image below... left is driver's side, and right is passenger side.)
Last edited by E61FUN; 08-13-2016 at 09:17 AM.
08-13-2016, 09:13 AM
#364
New Members
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: earth
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My Ride: white
Model Year: 1947
Engine: b38
08-13-2016, 11:24 AM
#365
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Thread Starter
Is there some type of screen that attaches to the diamond-shaped face of the intake scoop in front of the radiator?
I just took delivery of all the parts to finish my M5 front end conversion. I now have M5 inner fender liners and the M5 lower brake cooling ducts that attach to back of the outer air inlets at the lower corners of the M5 bumper cover. Those brake ducts have "risers", if you will. I wondered if those directed air to the intake on the V10. Yet now I see what you have just posted ^.
Don't your M5 ducts have those risers?
(I think that the ducts are laid out backwards in the image below... left is driver's side, and right is passenger side.)
I just took delivery of all the parts to finish my M5 front end conversion. I now have M5 inner fender liners and the M5 lower brake cooling ducts that attach to back of the outer air inlets at the lower corners of the M5 bumper cover. Those brake ducts have "risers", if you will. I wondered if those directed air to the intake on the V10. Yet now I see what you have just posted ^.
Don't your M5 ducts have those risers?
(I think that the ducts are laid out backwards in the image below... left is driver's side, and right is passenger side.)
For the air intakes off the brake ducts, no I don't have those. Since there is no air box and no suction to pull air up and out of the brake ducts I don't think they would be very effective. Previously I built a "ramp" out of aluminum which directs 100% of the air that would be going to the brake upwards along the backside of the wheel liner. Due to the ram air effect I am positive this is a superior solution for getting cold air to the intake filter. It should be even more effective now that the DSC pump is done.
08-15-2016, 08:36 PM
#366
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Fired the beast up! The engine was primed with oil and she started on the first crank. It was ran through 2 cycles where it got to operating temp and then fully cooled, after the 3rd run the oil was drained while warm for examination. All looked good, no coolant or excessive chunks or metal.
Here are some videos.
1st start, DPs installed, no exhaust.
3rd start, exhaust installed:
On the 3rd run I pulled some logs:
Oil @97F and Oil @208F
datazap.me | ucsbwsr | Rebuilt N54 3rd Start
I refilled it the same Mobile 1 0w-40 and I will run this for the first 500 miles or so while I shake down the wagon and break in my new clutch. After that I will switch to Motul 5w-40.
With the engine up to temp I noticed the the coolant wasn't floating through the heat exchanger, likely due to the internal thermostat in the unit. I think I could have removed the t-stat and allowed flow but since the unit is far from ideal I figured I would remove it so simplicity sake and down the road if my wagon needs more cooling, either coolant or oil I can add what I need. With the heat exchanger out I now have a nice place for a 10x10 or so radiator core.
Before
After
3/4" Vibrant hose squeezed on to the metric sized BMW fitting
Here are some videos.
1st start, DPs installed, no exhaust.
3rd start, exhaust installed:
On the 3rd run I pulled some logs:
Oil @97F and Oil @208F
datazap.me | ucsbwsr | Rebuilt N54 3rd Start
I refilled it the same Mobile 1 0w-40 and I will run this for the first 500 miles or so while I shake down the wagon and break in my new clutch. After that I will switch to Motul 5w-40.
With the engine up to temp I noticed the the coolant wasn't floating through the heat exchanger, likely due to the internal thermostat in the unit. I think I could have removed the t-stat and allowed flow but since the unit is far from ideal I figured I would remove it so simplicity sake and down the road if my wagon needs more cooling, either coolant or oil I can add what I need. With the heat exchanger out I now have a nice place for a 10x10 or so radiator core.
Before
After
3/4" Vibrant hose squeezed on to the metric sized BMW fitting
09-01-2016, 05:13 PM
#368
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Senior Members
Thread Starter
Finally got around to replacing a leaking rear main seal.
M5 driveshaft should be back soon after being lengthened and rebuilt.
M5 DSC hardlines have been ordered but they will come from Germany so it may be a week or three before the arrive.
Evan
After the first initial runs and intervals of bringing the engine to temp it became obvious the rear main seal was leaking.
My seal also looked to be installed very deep, essentially bottomed out.
There was also some rust since this motor sat in a junkyard for a bit.
Before removing the old seal I took a dremel and wire wheel to the crank.
The Bentley manual and Workshop-manuals only covered the process for the older 8-bolt hubs and seals. Mine was a 6-bolt from 2011 and had a different seal design, for better I would say.
Seal was removed by drilling a small hole with a drill and then installing a screw with was then pulled out with a hammer, worked like a charm and no $300 BMW Special Tool needed.
Pic with seal removed.
There was a small ledge on the lip, I decided this was a good location to press the seal to.
New seal installed.
New seal does not leak!
Delrin bushings for my shift arm.
M5 driveshaft should be back soon after being lengthened and rebuilt.
M5 DSC hardlines have been ordered but they will come from Germany so it may be a week or three before the arrive.
Evan
After the first initial runs and intervals of bringing the engine to temp it became obvious the rear main seal was leaking.
My seal also looked to be installed very deep, essentially bottomed out.
There was also some rust since this motor sat in a junkyard for a bit.
Before removing the old seal I took a dremel and wire wheel to the crank.
The Bentley manual and Workshop-manuals only covered the process for the older 8-bolt hubs and seals. Mine was a 6-bolt from 2011 and had a different seal design, for better I would say.
Seal was removed by drilling a small hole with a drill and then installing a screw with was then pulled out with a hammer, worked like a charm and no $300 BMW Special Tool needed.
Pic with seal removed.
There was a small ledge on the lip, I decided this was a good location to press the seal to.
New seal installed.
New seal does not leak!
Delrin bushings for my shift arm.
09-09-2016, 09:39 AM
#369
Members
Senior Members
Thread Starter
My wagon in its natural habitat....
I got some cold feet on the delrin shift arm bushings and ordered some oem rubber ones, to my surprise they were much harder than I was expecting.
When examining the oem shift arm support there was a lot of air and not a lot of rubber to support the arm.
Front
Rear
After striking out with metal washers and spacers I decided to get some 1/2" PVC plugs, their sizing was close to what I needed but being PVC I could use a dremel to make the exact shapes needed. The plug on the left was trimmed, bored out, and tapered so that it fit snugly both deep in the bushings and at the outer edge.
Plug modded and installed on the front side
Dremel work inside and out
Spacer cut
Installed, not pretty but effective
Coding/Flashing muscle Schumacher INC-700A
Pulled up UIF and flashed my VIN to the modules which didn't already have it.
Removed $205 and $203 from VO in CAS and LMA and defaulted some other major modules, then removed Auto trans from the MSD80 adaptations. I no longer have a gear cog show up in my dash so that is good but more testing later will confirm the AT-MT coding was successful.
My DSC module was not showing up in the UIF in INPA and I couldn't communicate with it in INPA or flash DSC60 in WinKFP. I have some wiring I need to check as when I cut the loom to extend and relocate my ABS/DSC pump to the oem M5 location I overlooked that a 2 pairs (twisted) and 2 single wires were identical so I have a few pins that I need to swap around in hopes that they were incorrectly soldered. Thankfully there are only 8 possible combinations the pins can be configured so if it is wiring related I can get to the bottom of it.
I am waiting for a small terminal release tool so that I can pop the pins out of the 47pin connector on the DSC pump.
Release ports are the little ports next to the terminals
Trimmed my engine cover since this section near the back looked odd without the oem airbox.
This was of course to make sure you could see cylinder 5 and 6 runners of my shiny new manifold.
Evolution of Speed Port Injection Manifold to be exact.
Business in the front, party in the back
I had them add a 1/2" NPT port in addition to the two 1/8" ports
Some people like big wings, chrome rims, crazy vinyl wraps.... this is my kind of bling: brushed aluminum
Much better
Intake manifold matches my oil cap
One more
I got some cold feet on the delrin shift arm bushings and ordered some oem rubber ones, to my surprise they were much harder than I was expecting.
When examining the oem shift arm support there was a lot of air and not a lot of rubber to support the arm.
Front
Rear
After striking out with metal washers and spacers I decided to get some 1/2" PVC plugs, their sizing was close to what I needed but being PVC I could use a dremel to make the exact shapes needed. The plug on the left was trimmed, bored out, and tapered so that it fit snugly both deep in the bushings and at the outer edge.
Plug modded and installed on the front side
Dremel work inside and out
Spacer cut
Installed, not pretty but effective
Coding/Flashing muscle Schumacher INC-700A
Pulled up UIF and flashed my VIN to the modules which didn't already have it.
Removed $205 and $203 from VO in CAS and LMA and defaulted some other major modules, then removed Auto trans from the MSD80 adaptations. I no longer have a gear cog show up in my dash so that is good but more testing later will confirm the AT-MT coding was successful.
My DSC module was not showing up in the UIF in INPA and I couldn't communicate with it in INPA or flash DSC60 in WinKFP. I have some wiring I need to check as when I cut the loom to extend and relocate my ABS/DSC pump to the oem M5 location I overlooked that a 2 pairs (twisted) and 2 single wires were identical so I have a few pins that I need to swap around in hopes that they were incorrectly soldered. Thankfully there are only 8 possible combinations the pins can be configured so if it is wiring related I can get to the bottom of it.
I am waiting for a small terminal release tool so that I can pop the pins out of the 47pin connector on the DSC pump.
Release ports are the little ports next to the terminals
Trimmed my engine cover since this section near the back looked odd without the oem airbox.
This was of course to make sure you could see cylinder 5 and 6 runners of my shiny new manifold.
Evolution of Speed Port Injection Manifold to be exact.
Business in the front, party in the back
I had them add a 1/2" NPT port in addition to the two 1/8" ports
Some people like big wings, chrome rims, crazy vinyl wraps.... this is my kind of bling: brushed aluminum
Much better
Intake manifold matches my oil cap
One more
