ccc freeze after 10 min
07-28-2012, 12:30 PM
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Hi folks,
to start with sorry for my engelish, hope that it is clear and understandable.
i have a bmw e60 535d with CCC idrive logic 7 dvd and a cd changer, the thing is after few minutes the system freezes and will not react on anuthing, even the idrive control looses its power (hardness, it becomes soft and light as a normal knop without any resistance), i have tried replaced both the logic 7 amp and the dvd bay even unplug the cd changer but still the same.
what can it be and /or what can i do..? i asked my local bmw workshop and they said that it could be the harness or the whole system. but they wasnt sure.
On cold start it can go up to 10 min before the problems start and on warm start it starts immediately,
to start with sorry for my engelish, hope that it is clear and understandable.
i have a bmw e60 535d with CCC idrive logic 7 dvd and a cd changer, the thing is after few minutes the system freezes and will not react on anuthing, even the idrive control looses its power (hardness, it becomes soft and light as a normal knop without any resistance), i have tried replaced both the logic 7 amp and the dvd bay even unplug the cd changer but still the same.
what can it be and /or what can i do..? i asked my local bmw workshop and they said that it could be the harness or the whole system. but they wasnt sure.
On cold start it can go up to 10 min before the problems start and on warm start it starts immediately,
07-29-2012, 06:13 AM
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Welcome to the forums!
I think there are two possible problems:
1. The whole CCC unit. It is known for developing loose connections in the crcuits due to the constant temperature amplitudes. This explains why when the car is cold, it works, but when its warm, it does not. If this is the problem, you either find an extremely talented electronics specialist who can detect the failed connection and fix it, or you buy anothe CCC unit for your car. If the new CCC unit has a recent manufacturing date, then the connections are made better by BMW's supplier.
2. The MULF module, which controls the Bluetooth. You have a MULF module if you have Bluetooth and Voice Controls, but NOT if you have the SOS button on your headliner (in this second case you have a different module - the TCU). If you have MULF, you can test if its the culprit if you take out the two optical cables from it and re-connect them with an optical "loop", to circumvent the module so-to-say. The MULF is in the trunk and also warms up in hot weather, but not as much as the CCC.
Do you have E60 or E61 (I know you wrote E60, but this is the E61 section..), do you have MULF or TCU, and when exactly was your car manufactured?
I think there are two possible problems:
1. The whole CCC unit. It is known for developing loose connections in the crcuits due to the constant temperature amplitudes. This explains why when the car is cold, it works, but when its warm, it does not. If this is the problem, you either find an extremely talented electronics specialist who can detect the failed connection and fix it, or you buy anothe CCC unit for your car. If the new CCC unit has a recent manufacturing date, then the connections are made better by BMW's supplier.
2. The MULF module, which controls the Bluetooth. You have a MULF module if you have Bluetooth and Voice Controls, but NOT if you have the SOS button on your headliner (in this second case you have a different module - the TCU). If you have MULF, you can test if its the culprit if you take out the two optical cables from it and re-connect them with an optical "loop", to circumvent the module so-to-say. The MULF is in the trunk and also warms up in hot weather, but not as much as the CCC.
Do you have E60 or E61 (I know you wrote E60, but this is the E61 section..), do you have MULF or TCU, and when exactly was your car manufactured?
07-29-2012, 06:41 AM
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Welcome to the forums!
I think there are two possible problems:
1. The whole CCC unit. It is known for developing loose connections in the crcuits due to the constant temperature amplitudes. This explains why when the car is cold, it works, but when its warm, it does not. If this is the problem, you either find an extremely talented electronics specialist who can detect the failed connection and fix it, or you buy anothe CCC unit for your car. If the new CCC unit has a recent manufacturing date, then the connections are made better by BMW's supplier.
2. The MULF module, which controls the Bluetooth. You have a MULF module if you have Bluetooth and Voice Controls, but NOT if you have the SOS button on your headliner (in this second case you have a different module - the TCU). If you have MULF, you can test if its the culprit if you take out the two optical cables from it and re-connect them with an optical "loop", to circumvent the module so-to-say. The MULF is in the trunk and also warms up in hot weather, but not as much as the CCC.
Do you have E60 or E61 (I know you wrote E60, but this is the E61 section..), do you have MULF or TCU, and when exactly was your car manufactured?
I think there are two possible problems:
1. The whole CCC unit. It is known for developing loose connections in the crcuits due to the constant temperature amplitudes. This explains why when the car is cold, it works, but when its warm, it does not. If this is the problem, you either find an extremely talented electronics specialist who can detect the failed connection and fix it, or you buy anothe CCC unit for your car. If the new CCC unit has a recent manufacturing date, then the connections are made better by BMW's supplier.
2. The MULF module, which controls the Bluetooth. You have a MULF module if you have Bluetooth and Voice Controls, but NOT if you have the SOS button on your headliner (in this second case you have a different module - the TCU). If you have MULF, you can test if its the culprit if you take out the two optical cables from it and re-connect them with an optical "loop", to circumvent the module so-to-say. The MULF is in the trunk and also warms up in hot weather, but not as much as the CCC.
Do you have E60 or E61 (I know you wrote E60, but this is the E61 section..), do you have MULF or TCU, and when exactly was your car manufactured?
). im thinking if this is a common problem with the CCC unit if so there has been any diy repair for it, that i could use even as a guideline.
07-30-2012, 03:17 AM
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There is no DIY "repair".
Afaik, such a repair, if at all possible, can be done only by skilled electronics engineer with lots of time on his hands.
The other option is a replacement with another unit, for which the only DIY that is needed is the removal instruction, which is widely available here. Then in this case, also coding might be needed, which is also not a DIY process...
Afaik, such a repair, if at all possible, can be done only by skilled electronics engineer with lots of time on his hands.
The other option is a replacement with another unit, for which the only DIY that is needed is the removal instruction, which is widely available here. Then in this case, also coding might be needed, which is also not a DIY process...
09-20-2012, 06:11 PM
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My Ride: ActiveHybrid - fully tricked out
Model Year: 2013
Welcome to the forums!
I think there are two possible problems:
1. The whole CCC unit. It is known for developing loose connections in the crcuits due to the constant temperature amplitudes. This explains why when the car is cold, it works, but when its warm, it does not. If this is the problem, you either find an extremely talented electronics specialist who can detect the failed connection and fix it, or you buy anothe CCC unit for your car. If the new CCC unit has a recent manufacturing date, then the connections are made better by BMW's supplier.
2. The MULF module, which controls the Bluetooth. You have a MULF module if you have Bluetooth and Voice Controls, but NOT if you have the SOS button on your headliner (in this second case you have a different module - the TCU). If you have MULF, you can test if its the culprit if you take out the two optical cables from it and re-connect them with an optical "loop", to circumvent the module so-to-say. The MULF is in the trunk and also warms up in hot weather, but not as much as the CCC.
Do you have E60 or E61 (I know you wrote E60, but this is the E61 section..), do you have MULF or TCU, and when exactly was your car manufactured?
I think there are two possible problems:
1. The whole CCC unit. It is known for developing loose connections in the crcuits due to the constant temperature amplitudes. This explains why when the car is cold, it works, but when its warm, it does not. If this is the problem, you either find an extremely talented electronics specialist who can detect the failed connection and fix it, or you buy anothe CCC unit for your car. If the new CCC unit has a recent manufacturing date, then the connections are made better by BMW's supplier.
2. The MULF module, which controls the Bluetooth. You have a MULF module if you have Bluetooth and Voice Controls, but NOT if you have the SOS button on your headliner (in this second case you have a different module - the TCU). If you have MULF, you can test if its the culprit if you take out the two optical cables from it and re-connect them with an optical "loop", to circumvent the module so-to-say. The MULF is in the trunk and also warms up in hot weather, but not as much as the CCC.
Do you have E60 or E61 (I know you wrote E60, but this is the E61 section..), do you have MULF or TCU, and when exactly was your car manufactured?
Agggh - I got hit wit "problem 1." today. That's gonna cost me $$$$$ when I pick up the car tomorrow at the dealer.
It's actually been having problems for a few weeks. Started off with a spontanious reboot once every couple of days. Then it turned into everyday. Then it would reboot but take 6 attempts before actually rebooting. This morning it wouldn't even start. It's been hot here in Toronto and the car has been outside (not in the cooler garage). The dealer confirmed that the CCC is reporting all kinds of faults.
When I bought the car, I told my lovely bride that I would keep the car for 18 years or until the first major computer failure. Well, the price of the computer has dropped (since 2005 when I bought the car) from $2500 to $1200 (Cnd). So lovely bride has said I don't have to fulfil my promise. But next time it happens it might be the end of the road for the car.
So - I asked the dealer about getting the old parts back and they told me they want $1,100 for them. What's with that? Do they refurbish them? Are they worth that much?
I leave you today much, much poorer. No new toys for me for a while.
Cheers
09-21-2012, 12:05 PM
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My Ride: 2010 535 xi - M Sport Pkg & other goodies
If you're paying for the new unit (vs. claiming it under warranty), then what's their problem giving it to you? Unless it's some sort of scam by them, and they managed to repair the old one, but charge you for a whole new unit? 
09-25-2012, 05:08 PM
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My Ride: ActiveHybrid - fully tricked out
Model Year: 2013
Lastly, I'm not sure but it seems to run a little slower.
Anyway, it's done now.
Thanks for letting me vent.
Cheers
10-18-2012, 09:14 AM
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This is a very problematic area. Any component (active or inactive) can cause the bus to freeze and you will get a none responsive system. The problem is, as the dealer told you it may be internal (ie. in the amplifier, radio head or gimbal) or it may be in either the fiber bus or the electrical bus. The only way to really test is to isolate each component with a fiber optic jumper until you find the failure. Warning, often these issues are heat related. For example a poor solder joint on a PC board will expand with heat and contract in the cold making diagnostic that much harder. From experience, here at German Auto Center, we typically find either a fault in the fiber at one of the connectors or a bad amplifier or radio head unit. One thing to check is does anything work at all when it first locks up? Often things will start with a screen locking up but the radio or CD may still work, then you may not be able to change channels. etc. This might give you a hint of which component is first locking up the bus system. Technically what happens is a component looses communication and starts transmitting faults on the bus consuming all available traffic.
By the way (part 2) the dealer’s approach is to replace ALL components one at a time including the amplifier, radio head, cd/nav unit and then the gimbal and antenna. Again, my experience is the most common failure is the cd/nav unit, then the amplifier then the radio head unit. They (the dealer) do not diagnose this situation.
By the way (part 2) the dealer’s approach is to replace ALL components one at a time including the amplifier, radio head, cd/nav unit and then the gimbal and antenna. Again, my experience is the most common failure is the cd/nav unit, then the amplifier then the radio head unit. They (the dealer) do not diagnose this situation.
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