norsecarnut

Wow man, those wheels look really sweet and classy. I wouldn't change anything at all unless you actually want to up-size the tire alone, like I did.

Maybe scratch that itch some other way or do something else with the money burning a hole in your pocket. Not to poke in your business, but maxing out an ira would be better, or taking a trip considering the wheels you have look great.

norsecarnut

I'll 2nd that. 189 nearly positive. Looks like nice offset too, not too sunk in but not too far out causing problems. If only a .5" difference in rim width, I'd say it would be perfectly fine to run the same tire on them too, say a 245/40x18 for factory spec or my size.

FYI, if there are reservations on using a run flat, going larger improves any concern of ride quality.

Personally I like how the RFT tightens up the handling too on this heavy car. My summers are no RFT but the winters are. I could find the summer I wanted and knew I'd have a full size spare with me anyway because summer is when I'll get into knarlier roads and have more potential for a flat.

alexio

you guys are probably right, and although I did have an itch for multispoke CSL 19" rims... I'll apply that money towards an extended warranty as this car has not exactly been reliable since I purchased it 12000 miles ago, and has probably cost the dealership $5-6k already. Even wondering whether it's smart to keep it and not just buy an ugly 4 door pickup truck (I live on the beach in Norcal... it's all about outdoor activities with equipment which gets dirty). Anyway, apology again for being too lazy to search, appreciate the help and responses.

alexio

i ended up craving to aesthetics, and deciding to keep the car AND upgrade the rims. What was bothering me initially was actually something I had not mentioned on this thread, and that was the horrible cowl shake/body flex. The steering wheel literally shuddered over uneven bumps, and it really made me feel like I was driving a poorly built car. Then on a hunch I purchased a Cusco strut bar from Modbargains... Oh my god... what a difference. It's like having a new car... outside of the faster turn-in and flatter corning (I don't drive this car sporty at all, just straight boring highway miles) the steering wheel feels SOLID, the structure doesn't shake, it's an incredible improvement. Thanks to Gilbert at Modbargains for suggesting such a great accessory... best $200 I have EVER spent on a car. After that went so well, I decided on the cobb accessport for some more power, and then purchased the new Sportline CS.16 rotary forged CSL replica wheels in a staggered setup. The weight is 20lb for the front wheels and 22lb for the rears which is excellent, now I just need to decide on tires. I was surprised how expensive tires this size are, but oh well, I have the wheels so I had better bite the bullet on tires. Thinking of going for 245/40/19 in front, and 275/35/19 in rear...

these end up increasing the overal diameter of my wheel 1 inch from 25.71 to 26.71 in front/26.57 in the rear. I'm hoping this overall diameter increase will help the car not look so "raised" even with my stock suspension. Am I making right decision on these tires?

can't wait to have these rims and the cobb accessport mounted. Last step will be slightly darker tint and this car will be perfect (for me)

norsecarnut

sounds like a good plan. the sizes should fit just fine like we have discussed elsewhere as long as the wheel ET is within reason.

Lotus99

Did you just put on a front strut bar? I had read I thought it's always good to replace front and back together to keep things balanced (on Dinan's site).

alexio

the wheels I ordered are the new rotary forged Sportline cs.16 from Modbargains... UPS truck should be arriving any minute actually.... OMG speak of the devil... UPS guy rang the doorbell exactly at time I wrote that

I didn't know there was a rear bar?... which one are you referring to? I got the Cusco one from Modbargains as this is the one they suggested... even though I understand the argument that it's not stiff like the hard racing one... it fits perfectly and has made an amazing difference to the horribly shuddering body structure/steering. huge huge improvement, couldn't be happier for the price.

Lotus99

Not saying there is one, just that I read on Dinan's site they recommend front and rears to be upgraded together, so I assumed it was a rule of thumb in general for cars, when upgrading the sway bars. From their 335 rear bar description: "The matching 26.5mm front antiroll bar should always be installed as well for proper balance."

Having said the above, I went to their site to check, and they do sell a front and a rear one, though in Carbon Fiber, and you're paying the big Dinan price for them too. They don't mention for them though you need to match them up like on the 335's.

http://www.dinancars.com/shop/D180-0...ce.aspx#page=1

http://www.dinancars.com/shop/D180-0...ce.aspx#page=1

norsecarnut

Not for wagons though....right?

alexio

I think you're confusing "strut bar" with "sway bar"... different objects entirely. The strut bar is what goes in the engine bay to brace the suspension tower points, thereby making the body structure more rigid... the sway bars go below the car, to help with suspension alignment, over/understeer etc.