Light bulbs for the rear license plate?
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Just out of curiosity, is the LED bulbs brighter than a conventional bulb with the purple tint to make it look white. By going with a regular bulb, you wouldn't have to worry about having to use the resistor to get rid of the warning triangle, right?
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Originally Posted by Octo' post='305753' date='Jul 1 2006, 01:46 AM
Just out of curiosity, is the LED bulbs brighter than a conventional bulb with the purple tint to make it look white. By going with a regular bulb, you wouldn't have to worry about having to use the resistor to get rid of the warning triangle, right?
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My Ride: 2007 550i White/Black, SMG, Sports Pkg, Comfort Access, Nav, HUD, Satellite Radio, Anthracite Maple Trim
2006 X5 3.0, Black/Black, Sports Pkg, Premium Pkg, Xenon Adaptive Headlight, NAV, Rear Climate Pkg, Anthracite Trim
Originally Posted by Octo' post='305753' date='Jul 1 2006, 01:46 AM
Just out of curiosity, is the LED bulbs brighter than a conventional bulb with the purple tint to make it look white. By going with a regular bulb, you wouldn't have to worry about having to use the resistor to get rid of the warning triangle, right?
thank you bigguns and everyone else.. i got the resistors a t radio shack for $1.95 for 2 ..installed them and woala! no more warning triangule or message anymore..
..but but it was a bit tricky making the resitor sit in place tight since the trunk gets opened and shut frequently...just make sure the resitor wires are bend making good pressure
..but but it was a bit tricky making the resitor sit in place tight since the trunk gets opened and shut frequently...just make sure the resitor wires are bend making good pressure
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My Ride: I have a 2007 Black Sapphire BMW 530i with SMG. It has the auburn interior, has PDC, Sports Package, Premium Package, rear automatic sunshades with manual side sunshades, 35% black tint, Upgraded angeleyes from Angelibrights, and Logic 7 Sound System
Model Year: 2007
somebody wanna help those of us out there that are not very good dyi? Like the installation for the angelibrights was a great write up and I could easily follow those diretions. ANybody want to do the same for this, because it is a worthy mod??
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Originally Posted by BigGuns' post='305591' date='Jun 30 2006, 04:18 PM
You could cut the wires at the end of the resistor if you want, but I do not feel it is necessary.
Not being savvy with the electronics lingo, I believe it is installed parallel, as it has direct, shared contact with the LED bulb and +/- contacts.
Got the pics to work...shitty quality, but here you go...
Resistor in light housing, wires through contacts
Attachment 21250
Resistor and LED festoon in housing
Attachment 21251
Final product
Attachment 21252
Not being savvy with the electronics lingo, I believe it is installed parallel, as it has direct, shared contact with the LED bulb and +/- contacts.
Got the pics to work...shitty quality, but here you go...
Resistor in light housing, wires through contacts
Attachment 21250
Resistor and LED festoon in housing
Attachment 21251
Final product
Attachment 21252
I am glad that the resistor is working for you guys, but keep something in mind. The lower the resistance value is the more current travels through the resistor. The resistors that are used for "fooling" the car into believing that there is a bulb there instead of the LED's have lower resistance values in order to match the light bulbs resistance. This means that a higher current goes through the resistor and for this reason you have to use a high power resistor instead of a normal one. However, once you do this the resistors will get at least warm and maybe even hot. The LED manufacturers that sell power resistor use the kind that have an aluminum heat sink on them and they recommend that it be installed on a flat metal surface so that the heat will dissipate faster and the heat build up will not be too high.
So since your resistors don't have heat sinks and are not installed on a metal surface I would recommend that you guys keep checking them to make sure they are not getting too hot (at least for a while in the beginning until you're sure it's fine).
So since your resistors don't have heat sinks and are not installed on a metal surface I would recommend that you guys keep checking them to make sure they are not getting too hot (at least for a while in the beginning until you're sure it's fine).
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rodybmw, thanks for the heads up on the resistors and heat sink. This is a mod where I'm waiting to do.
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Originally Posted by rodybmw' post='307428' date='Jul 6 2006, 06:45 AM
I am glad that the resistor is working for you guys, but keep something in mind. The lower the resistance value is the more current travels through the resistor. The resistors that are used for "fooling" the car into believing that there is a bulb there instead of the LED's have lower resistance values in order to match the light bulbs resistance. This means that a higher current goes through the resistor and for this reason you have to use a high power resistor instead of a normal one. However, once you do this the resistors will get at least warm and maybe even hot. The LED manufacturers that sell power resistor use the kind that have an aluminum heat sink on them and they recommend that it be installed on a flat metal surface so that the heat will dissipate faster and the heat build up will not be too high.
So since your resistors don't have heat sinks and are not installed on a metal surface I would recommend that you guys keep checking them to make sure they are not getting too hot (at least for a while in the beginning until you're sure it's fine).
So since your resistors don't have heat sinks and are not installed on a metal surface I would recommend that you guys keep checking them to make sure they are not getting too hot (at least for a while in the beginning until you're sure it's fine).
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Just checked out my LEDs after a week of use. It does not appear that the resistors are getting too hot...there is no warping or indication that the plastic housing is melting, or anything of the sort.


