JL AUDIO W7 HELPP
#11
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Originally Posted by nelson29' post='619144' date='Jul 8 2008, 09:49 PM
You dont need a capacitor but will need a battery. i have the ODYSSEY PC 1700T Battery installed.
http://www.odysseybatteries.com/battery/pc1700t.htm
Its one of the best batteries out there. check the specs!!! eventually u will need a higher output alternator.
http://www.odysseybatteries.com/battery/pc1700t.htm
Its one of the best batteries out there. check the specs!!! eventually u will need a higher output alternator.
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Originally Posted by nelson29' post='619144' date='Jul 8 2008, 09:49 PM
You dont need a capacitor but will need a battery. i have the ODYSSEY PC 1700T Battery installed.
http://www.odysseybatteries.com/battery/pc1700t.htm
Its one of the best batteries out there. check the specs!!! eventually u will need a higher output alternator.
http://www.odysseybatteries.com/battery/pc1700t.htm
Its one of the best batteries out there. check the specs!!! eventually u will need a higher output alternator.
those are some sick amp...you running them to some focal?
#13
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Im using Rainbow Platinum Speakers . I will recommended you go for the Jl w6v2 sub. its a better SQ sub. 1 of them is plenty with adequate power.
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Originally Posted by Macak' post='619084' date='Jul 8 2008, 05:22 PM
I'VE HAD MY 2007 BMW 525I FOR ALMOST 2 YEARS NOW, I AM GETTING READY TO GET A JL AUDIO W7 WITH THE JL AUDIO 1000/1 AMP. I DONT KNOW MUCH ABOUT SYSTEMS BUT I KNOW THAT THIS SETUP IS VERY GOOD. NOW I WANTED TO KNOW IF I WILL NEED A CERTAIN CAPACITOR OR NEED TO CHANGE MY ALTERNATOR. ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED???
I want to help you guys understand this better. Just so you all know a battery is a capacitor. It just has way more resistance than a car audio capacitor. A batter takes hours to charge or discharge and a capacitor can charge or discharge almost instantly. That is why capacitors are installed in audio systems to reduce the current load spikes to the battery. Also neither one creates energy so if your total power draw is more than you charging capacity neither one will solve the problem. A 1000 watt amp at 50% efficiency will draw about 30 amps with peaks as high as 60 amps or more. That does not seem like much but remember that the oem radio/ amp pulls power, the A/C, the headlights all pull power.... And also a matching 450/4 amp would pull another 30 amps. I do not know the amp output of the E60 alternator so if anyone does please post it here for reference.
Basically the answer to your question is this- You primary battery should be a standard cycle battery of high CCA value. If you add large amplifiers you should add a capacitor as close to the amp as possible. Rockford fosgate makes a 10 farrad cap for about $500 usd. If you still find that those two things are not enough then a alternator with increased output would be the next logical step. As a side note I am not a fan of 2000 watt sub amps since most cars do not have the juice to run them and they are heavy ( 50+ lbs ) anyway I prefer subs to be much more efficient and quick and the good ones do not need that kind of power to run them.
#16
Originally Posted by Macak' post='619084' date='Jul 8 2008, 07:22 PM
I'VE HAD MY 2007 BMW 525I FOR ALMOST 2 YEARS NOW, I AM GETTING READY TO GET A JL AUDIO W7 WITH THE JL AUDIO 1000/1 AMP. I DONT KNOW MUCH ABOUT SYSTEMS BUT I KNOW THAT THIS SETUP IS VERY GOOD. NOW I WANTED TO KNOW IF I WILL NEED A CERTAIN CAPACITOR OR NEED TO CHANGE MY ALTERNATOR. ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED???
#17
Originally Posted by xxrap985xx' post='619090' date='Jul 8 2008, 08:38 PM
did you have any problems with your system.. like when i turn up the volume on mine the sub cut out but the amp to go into protect and the second i put the volume down they come right back on. i was wondering which wires did you tap into for LOC and also do you have the logic7 system?
#18
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Originally Posted by BIGRON' post='619896' date='Jul 9 2008, 08:19 PM
yea i have logic7, i had that problem when i had a rocksford amp, the amp was getting to hot so it would go on protect mode, and it would shut on and off every 5 minutes. i dont know what wires i got.
Sounds to me like they were bridging the amp mono and the resulting ohm load drop was causing overheating.
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Originally Posted by thedreamshop' post='619178' date='Jul 9 2008, 03:00 AM
I want to help you guys understand this better. Just so you all know a battery is a capacitor. It just has way more resistance than a car audio capacitor. A batter takes hours to charge or discharge and a capacitor can charge or discharge almost instantly. That is why capacitors are installed in audio systems to reduce the current load spikes to the battery. Also neither one creates energy so if your total power draw is more than you charging capacity neither one will solve the problem. A 1000 watt amp at 50% efficiency will draw about 30 amps with peaks as high as 60 amps or more. That does not seem like much but remember that the oem radio/ amp pulls power, the A/C, the headlights all pull power.... And also a matching 450/4 amp would pull another 30 amps. I do not know the amp output of the E60 alternator so if anyone does please post it here for reference.
Basically the answer to your question is this- You primary battery should be a standard cycle battery of high CCA value. If you add large amplifiers you should add a capacitor as close to the amp as possible. Rockford fosgate makes a 10 farrad cap for about $500 usd. If you still find that those two things are not enough then a alternator with increased output would be the next logical step. As a side note I am not a fan of 2000 watt sub amps since most cars do not have the juice to run them and they are heavy ( 50+ lbs ) anyway I prefer subs to be much more efficient and quick and the good ones do not need that kind of power to run them.
Basically the answer to your question is this- You primary battery should be a standard cycle battery of high CCA value. If you add large amplifiers you should add a capacitor as close to the amp as possible. Rockford fosgate makes a 10 farrad cap for about $500 usd. If you still find that those two things are not enough then a alternator with increased output would be the next logical step. As a side note I am not a fan of 2000 watt sub amps since most cars do not have the juice to run them and they are heavy ( 50+ lbs ) anyway I prefer subs to be much more efficient and quick and the good ones do not need that kind of power to run them.
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