Aftermarket Subs and Amp FARAD CAPACITOR
12-27-2009, 11:34 AM
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Hey guys i just wanted to know your oppinions on a FARAD Cap and if i would need one, basically i have two Pioneer 3500W Peak/1000W Rms and a JBL GTO14001e Amplifier which plays 1200Rms at 4OHM and 1500Rms at 2OHM.
Do you think i need a 1.5 Farad Cap as im currenlty running the Subwoofers individually at 2OHM and wired seperately to the amplifier via the left+right terminals or should i just wire my Subs into 4OHM and get a 1.2 Farad Cap??
Are Farad Caps any good? will it drain my battery in any way? as i currently get my rear lights dim when the bass kicks on them lows..
HELP needed guys
I currenlty have the subs wired like the lil diagram which i drew below...(lol its supposed to show the subs wired individually into 2OHMs)
by the way the subs are DVC4 and the amp is a Mono.
Thanks in advance peepz
Do you think i need a 1.5 Farad Cap as im currenlty running the Subwoofers individually at 2OHM and wired seperately to the amplifier via the left+right terminals or should i just wire my Subs into 4OHM and get a 1.2 Farad Cap??
Are Farad Caps any good? will it drain my battery in any way? as i currently get my rear lights dim when the bass kicks on them lows..
HELP needed guys
I currenlty have the subs wired like the lil diagram which i drew below...(lol its supposed to show the subs wired individually into 2OHMs)
by the way the subs are DVC4 and the amp is a Mono.
Thanks in advance peepz
12-28-2009, 05:48 AM
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Never heard of Farad caps, I am familiar with the term farad, which is used to describe cpapcitor ratings.
Generally speaking, you should have .5 farads for every 500w of power. So if you can push 1200w RMS then a 1.5 farad capacitor should be fine.
The whole purpose of a capacitor is to take the load off the battery, thus no dimming headlights when the bass hits. Just make sure you use the right gauge wiring.
Your diagram shows a standard two channel, 4 ohm configuration (some amps list + and - as individual channels, I refer to each pair as one channel). Normally you would have to bridge the amp to get a two ohm output. But since I don't know the specs on your amp, I can't confirm. Bottom line is if both the amp and speakers are stable at that impedance - then you are good to go.
1200w RMS at 4 or 2 ohms is LOUD.
Generally speaking, you should have .5 farads for every 500w of power. So if you can push 1200w RMS then a 1.5 farad capacitor should be fine.
The whole purpose of a capacitor is to take the load off the battery, thus no dimming headlights when the bass hits. Just make sure you use the right gauge wiring.
Your diagram shows a standard two channel, 4 ohm configuration (some amps list + and - as individual channels, I refer to each pair as one channel). Normally you would have to bridge the amp to get a two ohm output. But since I don't know the specs on your amp, I can't confirm. Bottom line is if both the amp and speakers are stable at that impedance - then you are good to go.
1200w RMS at 4 or 2 ohms is LOUD.
12-28-2009, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by pukka' post='1080558' date='Dec 28 2009, 02:48 PM
Never heard of Farad caps, I am familiar with the term farad, which is used to describe cpapcitor ratings.
Generally speaking, you should have .5 farads for every 500w of power. So if you can push 1200w RMS then a 1.5 farad capacitor should be fine.
The whole purpose of a capacitor is to take the load off the battery, thus no dimming headlights when the bass hits. Just make sure you use the right gauge wiring.
Your diagram shows a standard two channel, 4 ohm configuration (some amps list + and - as individual channels, I refer to each pair as one channel). Normally you would have to bridge the amp to get a two ohm output. But since I don't know the specs on your amp, I can't confirm. Bottom line is if both the amp and speakers are stable at that impedance - then you are good to go.
1200w RMS at 4 or 2 ohms is LOUD.
Generally speaking, you should have .5 farads for every 500w of power. So if you can push 1200w RMS then a 1.5 farad capacitor should be fine.
The whole purpose of a capacitor is to take the load off the battery, thus no dimming headlights when the bass hits. Just make sure you use the right gauge wiring.
Your diagram shows a standard two channel, 4 ohm configuration (some amps list + and - as individual channels, I refer to each pair as one channel). Normally you would have to bridge the amp to get a two ohm output. But since I don't know the specs on your amp, I can't confirm. Bottom line is if both the amp and speakers are stable at that impedance - then you are good to go.
1200w RMS at 4 or 2 ohms is LOUD.
Im currently using 4gauge power/grounds wires with an in line fuse rated at 150amps (AFS fuse)
Do you think using 4gauge wires are fine or should i upgrade to 1/0 gauge wires?
12-28-2009, 02:53 PM
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My Ride: 2008 535i:
(8/07 Build) Metallic Bronze, Beige NASCA Leather, Ventilated Seats, Sport Pkg, Cold Wxr Pkg, Logic-7 Sound, HUD, Night Vision, PDC, Split Rear Seats, NAV, Premium Pkg, Comfort Access, HD Radio, Sport Auto Trans
Current mods: M-Aero Kit, JB4, Motorcepts 6000k HID Foglamps
Umnitza ICE-Lite 10w LED 6000k AE's
1992 Camaro RS:
Fully Restored w/Custom Interior, 5.0L V8, T-tops, OEM Z28 Foglamps, Inst Cluster, & Spoiler, Custom Sound, Too many engine mods to list
4AWG should do, but it also kinda depends on how much wire you are running from the battery to the cap (resistance loss)
It's been way too long since I've done something like this. I found a link you can use as a reference HERE
WARNING: Be SURE you know how to handle a capacitor. These things keep an electrical charge and have to be discharged manually. If you don't know what you are doing or aren't careful you could have a very bad day.
It's been way too long since I've done something like this. I found a link you can use as a reference HERE
WARNING: Be SURE you know how to handle a capacitor. These things keep an electrical charge and have to be discharged manually. If you don't know what you are doing or aren't careful you could have a very bad day.
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