JBOO

Nice write-up Robbie. Very helful for those considering a quick add-on to their system. thanks!

tategoi

Am I right to say that there are 3 variation on the car stereo? Standard, Hi-fi and Logic 7?

Iceman

Yes.

jksanford

Robbie,

Any chance you could post some pictures of your install? I'd love to see it.

James

acribb

Robbie, i'm trying to figure out the cleanest way to do this sort of thing as well. Another member, Lenk, was talking about using the existing power and ground feeding the stock amp. You're right, this DOES NOT sound like a good idea. I'd like to know how you ran your power wire from the battery to the mounted amp (how you got it through the firewall) and how and where you physically attached the amp as well as the ground to the car.

Some pictures would be great.

I'd like to do this work myself - for me it's fun, and I like to know something is done right. I know many car installers will just cut corners wherever possible including not replacing broken clips on door panels, etc.

Thanks!

amigo525

Some pictures can be helpful. I think i am missing something. I never read about which the model number for the alpine sub/amp.

mandviwa

This is very useful! Can you also tell us how to set up a AUX IN connector (for an MP3 player). THanks!

Munir

No, I don't hae L7 Just the standard UK set-up.

If you are gonna install a sub-amp in the trunk - DO NOT take power anywhere other than straight from the battery. The current draw is too great, and you are, at best, risking blowing some fuses, or, at worst, risking a fire in the car.

Installing a sub amp in the boot couldn't be easier, and takes less than an hour....

1) Remove both side trims, floor panel, spare wheel (if you have it) and plastic strip that the boot lid closes on (the one with the aux power connector in it).

2) Find a suitable place for the amp - mine is mounted above the left hand wheel arch.

3) Connect the remote wire to the aux-connector live point in the boot. This is switched with the ignition, and will turn the amp on and off, preventing power draw when the engine is not running.

4) Connect the unit to a suitable earth. Make sure the earth is good - you may want to scrape some paint off arround the point you choose. I chose a bracket bolt by the rear light assembly. Before connection, use an Ohm-meter between the earth and the negative battery terminal to check it is good. The reading should be virtually zero.

5) Connect the speaker level inputs. (If you amp supports speaker level inputs, then connect direcly, if not, you'll have to get an adapter, available from any car audio store). Do this by carefully popping the speaker grills off the speakers on the rear parcel shelf - by using a small flat blade. There are three screws securing the speakers under this grill - remove them. take the speaker out, and disconnect it. Use something sharp, like a knitting needle, to thread the speaker-level input wire from the trunk, through the sound-proof material, into the speaker recess.
Splice into the speaker wire with the speaker level input wire for the amp, using 3M clips, or bullet conectors. Reconnect the speaker, reinstall the speaker, and replace the grill. Repeat this on both sides.

6) Route the speaker-level input wires behind the trunk paneling to the amp, and connect.

7) Route the cable that feeds the sub-woofer to the place where it is to be installed - I installed a wire-grip speaker connector (like the sort on the back of domestic stereo speakers) into some of the trunk paneling to make it clean, but this is optional.

8) Connect the power to the battery, ensuring there is an in-line fuse. With my Alpine, it was all included, and the wire terminated on a spade connector (C shape) that fitted the battery terminal perfectly. (Make sure the in-line fuse is disconnected at this point). I didn't even need to fully disconnect the battery.

9) Replace all trunk paneling, spare wheel etc..

10) Connect and install Sub-woofer speaker, and enjoy!!!!

Remember, that you a) need to tune the amp to the car using the inbuilt EQ and level adjusters (really, just spend some time playing with the settings until it sounds right for you) and you need to get the sound from the trunk into the car - difficult if you do not have the thru-load facility, as the sound proofing is so darn good.

Any questions, drop me a line.

Robbie
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Lenk

Here is the specific information you need to properly add asubwoofer using the wires directly from wiring harness going into the amp in the trunk on the left side of the trunk. Do not use the back speakers as the sound as crossed over from the M-ASK or CCC computer and therefore you are not really getting true sub frequencies

1. Unplug the harness

2. Here are the wires you need going from the amp to the subwoofer:

Left sub + RT/WS Right sub - BL/BR
- BR/GE +BL/RT these wires a 1.75 mm thick

3. Use Crimp Connectors and attach speak wires to these wires. The can be purchased from Roadio and avoid you from cutting these wires.


As a bonus here is the all important ever so useful BMW wire color code chart to decipher the above colors

acribb

Thanks Lenk for the info. If you can, please post some pictures of your setup, once finished, or even better, as steps as your installer does the work. I'd like to know how the sub works out for you. As many have mentioned, the car is so soundproof that it may muffle the bass. I also still would like to see some close-ups of how the amp was mounted/grounded and how the power wire was run to the battery, and how you spliced into the wiring harness (i'm a visual learner). Thanks again for all the good info!

Kiwi530i

Thanks, that's really useful information.

On the subject of car audio does anyone know about replacing the standard speakers, what sizes and the ease of removing panels etc