Cleaning the MAF did wonders
#21
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Originally Posted by Krozi' post='829999' date='Mar 29 2009, 06:45 PM
+1 there really does not need to be a DIY for this.
Anywho...should only take 5 mins to pull the maf out, 2 mins to spray with crc and let dry, then another 5 mins to put it back in.
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Originally Posted by ktlocklear' post='830528' date='Mar 30 2009, 10:40 AM
Wow really.....If you don't know what a maf is, or don't have the right tools to take it off, you shouldn't be messing with it in the first place as thats one item under the hood you don't want to mess up. I paid $400 for a new one for my Nissan, I could only imagine what a new one cost from BMW
Anywho...should only take 5 mins to pull the maf out, 2 mins to spray with crc and let dry, then another 5 mins to put it back in.
Anywho...should only take 5 mins to pull the maf out, 2 mins to spray with crc and let dry, then another 5 mins to put it back in.
If I could catch the bastard that invented security screws...man
I think the right bit is a Security T25
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Sounds like a good DIY.
I don't believe your mpg improvement of 4-5mpg, however. There's something wrong with your before-and-after data or calculations.
Cal
I don't believe your mpg improvement of 4-5mpg, however. There's something wrong with your before-and-after data or calculations.
Cal
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Originally Posted by Krozi' post='830531' date='Mar 30 2009, 09:47 AM
I think the right bit is a Security T25
#25
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My Ride: 545i Sport
Model Year: 2004
Engine: N62
Here's my DIY:
-Disconnect MAF sensor harness. Loosen clamps with
1/4? nut driver.
-Unclip upper half of air box and lift carefully. Rotate
upper half of air box so MAF sensor is accesible through
the intake hole.
-Follow instructions on CRC MAF Sensor cleaner for use.
-Install housing back on, tighten clamp and re-attach harness.
-Disconnect MAF sensor harness. Loosen clamps with
1/4? nut driver.
-Unclip upper half of air box and lift carefully. Rotate
upper half of air box so MAF sensor is accesible through
the intake hole.
-Follow instructions on CRC MAF Sensor cleaner for use.
-Install housing back on, tighten clamp and re-attach harness.
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Originally Posted by Rizbel' post='830562' date='Mar 30 2009, 05:38 PM
Here's my DIY:
-Disconnect MAF sensor harness. Loosen clamps with
1/4? nut driver.
-Unclip upper half of air box and lift carefully. Rotate
upper half of air box so MAF sensor is accesible through
the intake hole.
-Follow instructions on CRC MAF Sensor cleaner for use.
-Install housing back on, tighten clamp and re-attach harness.
-Disconnect MAF sensor harness. Loosen clamps with
1/4? nut driver.
-Unclip upper half of air box and lift carefully. Rotate
upper half of air box so MAF sensor is accesible through
the intake hole.
-Follow instructions on CRC MAF Sensor cleaner for use.
-Install housing back on, tighten clamp and re-attach harness.
#27
Originally Posted by calpalmer' post='830536' date='Mar 30 2009, 10:53 AM
Sounds like a good DIY.
I don't believe your mpg improvement of 4-5mpg, however. There's something wrong with your before-and-after data or calculations.
Cal
I don't believe your mpg improvement of 4-5mpg, however. There's something wrong with your before-and-after data or calculations.
Cal
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HELP!!!!!!!
I use T25 Security Bit from SEARS (High Quality one) w/ HOLE and the damn screw still doesn't turn.
It looks like it needs a slightly larger Security Torx w/ HOLE like a T25.5 or T26 w/ hole or something.
It looks like my T25 will start grinding it a little bit if I put more force trying to open this damn screw.
Is it how it needs to be? You need to "break" the screw whenever you open it?
I know I can open it w/ plier but have anyone figured out a replacement screw that is philips or flat head?
I use T25 Security Bit from SEARS (High Quality one) w/ HOLE and the damn screw still doesn't turn.
It looks like it needs a slightly larger Security Torx w/ HOLE like a T25.5 or T26 w/ hole or something.
It looks like my T25 will start grinding it a little bit if I put more force trying to open this damn screw.
Is it how it needs to be? You need to "break" the screw whenever you open it?
I know I can open it w/ plier but have anyone figured out a replacement screw that is philips or flat head?
#29
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Originally Posted by salaki' post='831683' date='Mar 31 2009, 11:17 AM
HELP!!!!!!!
I use T25 Security Bit from SEARS (High Quality one) w/ HOLE and the damn screw still doesn't turn.
It looks like it needs a slightly larger Security Torx w/ HOLE like a T25.5 or T26 w/ hole or something.
It looks like my T25 will start grinding it a little bit if I put more force trying to open this damn screw.
Is it how it needs to be? You need to "break" the screw whenever you open it?
I know I can open it w/ plier but have anyone figured out a replacement screw that is philips or flat head?
I use T25 Security Bit from SEARS (High Quality one) w/ HOLE and the damn screw still doesn't turn.
It looks like it needs a slightly larger Security Torx w/ HOLE like a T25.5 or T26 w/ hole or something.
It looks like my T25 will start grinding it a little bit if I put more force trying to open this damn screw.
Is it how it needs to be? You need to "break" the screw whenever you open it?
I know I can open it w/ plier but have anyone figured out a replacement screw that is philips or flat head?
#30
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My Ride: '05 545 Titanium Silver, Black Leather - Nav, Logic 7, Cold weather.
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Originally Posted by salaki' post='831683' date='Mar 31 2009, 11:17 AM
HELP!!!!!!!
I use T25 Security Bit from SEARS (High Quality one) w/ HOLE and the damn screw still doesn't turn.
It looks like it needs a slightly larger Security Torx w/ HOLE like a T25.5 or T26 w/ hole or something.
It looks like my T25 will start grinding it a little bit if I put more force trying to open this damn screw.
Is it how it needs to be? You need to "break" the screw whenever you open it?
I know I can open it w/ plier but have anyone figured out a replacement screw that is philips or flat head?
I use T25 Security Bit from SEARS (High Quality one) w/ HOLE and the damn screw still doesn't turn.
It looks like it needs a slightly larger Security Torx w/ HOLE like a T25.5 or T26 w/ hole or something.
It looks like my T25 will start grinding it a little bit if I put more force trying to open this damn screw.
Is it how it needs to be? You need to "break" the screw whenever you open it?
I know I can open it w/ plier but have anyone figured out a replacement screw that is philips or flat head?
A #4 spanner bit also seemed to fit but I think that will strip the head.