Adding an aftermarket amplifier and subwoofers - plug and play
01-20-2008, 08:59 PM
#42
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My Ride: BMW E60 520d SE Saloon M47 2.0dTitanium Grey II, Grey−Dakota Leather, Visibility Package, Media Package, Through Load System, Lumbar support − fr seats, Automatic Air Conditioning−Advanced, High beam assistant, Hi−Fi Loudspeak
Model Year: 2006
Originally Posted by User_irl' post='520324' date='Jan 20 2008, 05:58 PM
Hi Bruce,
now i'm going to improve the sound in my E60 '04. I have the standart sound system (as i know). If the Earthquakes are now only available via the US, may be better option will be Pioneer TS-SW841D ? ( http://www.pioneer.co.uk/uk/products/25/13...841D/index.html )
And drive them by Pioneer GM-6300F. ( http://www.pioneer.co.uk/uk/products/25/29...300F/index.html )
Do you know - will they fit under the seats?
What you think?
Thanks.
now i'm going to improve the sound in my E60 '04. I have the standart sound system (as i know). If the Earthquakes are now only available via the US, may be better option will be Pioneer TS-SW841D ? ( http://www.pioneer.co.uk/uk/products/25/13...841D/index.html )
And drive them by Pioneer GM-6300F. ( http://www.pioneer.co.uk/uk/products/25/29...300F/index.html )
Do you know - will they fit under the seats?
What you think?
Thanks.
01-22-2008, 01:08 AM
#43
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My Ride: 2007 520dT LCI,
titansilver, advantagepack, comfortpack, coldclimatepack, 242-rims, black Daytona leather, chrome line, grey highgloss int.
Retrofit:Brink towhitch.
Upgraded audio: Audio-System Xion 200(4"mids, highs and 8"underseatsubs), JBL GTO 427´s in the ceiling and JL-Audio A4300 amp.
For the dark & snowy season: Nokian Hakka 5 studded, Hella 3003 Compact auxilary lights.
1999 523i,
Oxfordgreen, Sandbeige leather interior, style 89-rims, HiFI pro DSP, Xenon, PDC, ACC, double glazing, removable tow hitch, cold climate pack, wood trim, cruise control, armrest front, Steering wheel heating, Lumbar support.
Previously owned BMWs:
1999 528iA E39
1990 735 iA E32
Originally Posted by bruce_miranda' post='520256' date='Jan 20 2008, 02:09 PM
The basic sound package in the UK has 2 mid-range speakers installed under the seats. They are connected in parallel to the front door speakers. You too can do the mod but it would mean a bit more rewiring to get the amp wires to the subs. I used an amp made by a German company called Xetec. For me it was the power handling and size that mattered the most and not the real brand of the amp, each SWS-8 needs to be driven by atleast 150W RMS. But I found the Xetec amp is a very fine sounding piece, I am very impressed. The Earthquakes are now only available via the US. So you do land up paying the import duty and get no warranty for them but they are much cheaper than buying it via the German websites that would do them in the past.
Hi Bruce,
Thanx for a really good write up on this topic.
I?m about to do this mod but I got a few questions since I have the standard UK/Europe system.
Is there a line level output on the MASK? If so what pinouts is it?
If not, are the underseats in the standard system fullrange or is there a passive crossover at some point?
If the signal to the underseats are fullrange I should be able to tap into them and feed the amp
with high level input, right?!
I got my sights on a sweet system from Audio-System (see pic) that I think I?ll go for and power them with a JBL GTO 1004 amp.
Any thoughts?
//Daniel
01-22-2008, 04:32 AM
#44
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Model Year: 2006
Daniel I love that picture of those speakers because they look perfect and a direct swap. Any website for these guys?
I don't have access to the WDS to tell you the MASK / CCC pin numbers for the line level output. But I'm sure the speakers are all full range.
I don't have access to the WDS to tell you the MASK / CCC pin numbers for the line level output. But I'm sure the speakers are all full range.
01-22-2008, 04:42 AM
#45
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My Ride: 2007 520dT LCI,
titansilver, advantagepack, comfortpack, coldclimatepack, 242-rims, black Daytona leather, chrome line, grey highgloss int.
Retrofit:Brink towhitch.
Upgraded audio: Audio-System Xion 200(4"mids, highs and 8"underseatsubs), JBL GTO 427´s in the ceiling and JL-Audio A4300 amp.
For the dark & snowy season: Nokian Hakka 5 studded, Hella 3003 Compact auxilary lights.
1999 523i,
Oxfordgreen, Sandbeige leather interior, style 89-rims, HiFI pro DSP, Xenon, PDC, ACC, double glazing, removable tow hitch, cold climate pack, wood trim, cruise control, armrest front, Steering wheel heating, Lumbar support.
Previously owned BMWs:
1999 528iA E39
1990 735 iA E32
Originally Posted by bruce_miranda' post='521196' date='Jan 22 2008, 02:32 PM
Daniel I love that picture of those speakers because they look perfect and a direct swap. Any website for these guys?
I don't have access to the WDS to tell you the MASK / CCC pin numbers for the line level output. But I'm sure the speakers are all full range.
I don't have access to the WDS to tell you the MASK / CCC pin numbers for the line level output. But I'm sure the speakers are all full range.
You find it in various dealers in Germany. One of them is Big Dog Audio
http://www.bigdogaudio.de/lautsprecher-fah...-x-ion-200.html
I got a price of 360euros delivered to Sweden.
Sounds like a good deal to me
//daniel
01-27-2008, 09:49 PM
#47
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Originally Posted by bruce_miranda' post='520256' date='Jan 20 2008, 08:09 AM
The basic sound package in the UK has 2 mid-range speakers installed under the seats. They are connected in parallel to the front door speakers. You too can do the mod but it would mean a bit more rewiring to get the amp wires to the subs. I used an amp made by a German company called Xetec. For me it was the power handling and size that mattered the most and not the real brand of the amp, each SWS-8 needs to be driven by atleast 150W RMS. But I found the Xetec amp is a very fine sounding piece, I am very impressed. The Earthquakes are now only available via the US. So you do land up paying the import duty and get no warranty for them but they are much cheaper than buying it via the German websites that would do them in the past.
Damn the mids aint bad then , I thought it might of been 2 weak subs.. Just as I thought more wiring, but does this mean I will have no amp in my boot ?? Which I think will be the case, where can I now run the rest of the cables from any ideas ??
i.e. +, -, inputs, remote...
Do you know what kind of price im looking at for the sws-8 i cant seem to find a company that ships to the uk..
Thanks
01-27-2008, 11:11 PM
#48
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Model Year: 2006
If you dont have the amp in the boot you will need to either run the inputs from the HeadUnit or take them from the Speakers and covert them back to line level via a convertor. The positive and negative is best taken from the battery and the remote will have to come from maybe the boot socket.
Look on eBay there are a few people who sell the SWS-8 and they will ship to UK.
Look on eBay there are a few people who sell the SWS-8 and they will ship to UK.
01-31-2008, 06:48 AM
#49
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Model Year: 2006
I have made a small update to this thread the relavant places. I finally managed to find the BMW OEM connector to use at the speaker end. The BMW part number is 61136901731. So you need 2 of those and four contacts BMW Part No 61138364835 to get a completely plug and play solution with no custom made or tacky looking plugs.
Also a quick update on the power to the amp. My amp does not drain the battery at all. It comes on when the car wakes up but doesn't wait until the car goes to sleep to turn itself on. If I simply open the boot the amp is on but with the boot open I can see the amp turning off within a few minutes even though the boot light is still on. That must mean that if your amp is not power hungry you can go with the car's wiring including the remote feed itself like I did.
Also a quick update on the power to the amp. My amp does not drain the battery at all. It comes on when the car wakes up but doesn't wait until the car goes to sleep to turn itself on. If I simply open the boot the amp is on but with the boot open I can see the amp turning off within a few minutes even though the boot light is still on. That must mean that if your amp is not power hungry you can go with the car's wiring including the remote feed itself like I did.
02-03-2008, 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by bruce_miranda' post='523700' date='Jan 28 2008, 08:11 AM
The positive and negative is best taken from the battery and the remote will have to come from maybe the boot socket.
i don't have any sockets in my boot. Do you have any idea where else i can get a "remote" for the Amp?
Thanks.