Adding an aftermarket amplifier and subwoofers - plug and play
01-29-2009, 08:01 AM
#113
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HI Bruce (and everyone else),
I am really sad and it's been a really bad start to the new year. My new (2008) BMW LCI 530 E60 got flooded due to the freak weather here (a lot of cars was hit) and water got into the car at all 4 footwells of the car. This means, the subwoofer (under seat speakers), as well as the seat electronics (underneath the both front seats) are submerged
I have a HIFI Professional system with 10-speakers and the additional small amp at the back boot trunk (on the left side) as per the pictures posted on this thread.
Several points to be made before I list my questions below, and I sincerely hope that I can get some assistance from all of you to salvage the situation.
1. The footwells and underneath the front seats are definitely submerged for 3 or 4 inches (around ankle deep, but it didn't reach the top of the seat) i.e. a, thus this would definitely mean that the subwoofer speakers are submerged as well. This area was flooded for perhaps 2-3 hours.
2. The lower 1/3 of the footwell was totally flooded, thus the carpets, and foams underneath are soaking wet.
3. The car was NOT switched on during the flood and battery (red battery cable, in trunk of car) was promptly removed after opening the trunk (footwells still flooded by this time) but we are able to reach the car to unplug the battery.
4. The car was NOT started, and all pools of water was drained out promptly after this, although there is still a lot of water on the carpet and foam underneath the carpet.
5. Car was towed to the workshop the next day, and excess water was drained as much as we can by sucking out the water from the carpet, and blowing air thru the car. Carpet tops are now dry, but the foam underneath the carpet are still damp and some areas wet.
6. All cables connected to the seat, was disconnected, and the seat computer board and motors are immediately removed and dried. The computer board was cleaned using electrical cleaner and we checked for continuity tests using a multi-meter to see if anything was shorted. While we can't be sure, the continuity tests is fine as far as we can tell.
7. We are pretty lucky that the water is not muddy, and is clear. There are some sediments of sand, but it's very little.
8. The little amp that is powering the subs underneath the front seats has been disconnected, and there are no water at all in the trunk of the car, just in the 4 footwells inside the car. None of the fuse has been blown as far as we can tell, as we have not plugged back the battery or started the car since the battery cable was disconnected during day of flood.
9. The exhaust was removed to empty the water inside it, motor oil was changed and both air filter and oil filter was changed. We can confirm from the m-oil when bleeding it, that no water got into the engine. Engine bay at the front looks fine.
10. The ECU compartment, Gear box (I have an auto transmission) area, the dash board, etc, are all not in contact with the water, as the water didn't reach that level at all.
Now, it seems like the most important thing now is the issue of the electronics of the car, pertaining to the 2 front seat electronics and the underseat subwoofer. Because we have plugged out the battery, we are unable to move the electronic seat, and thus to open the subwoofer cover to reach those speakers. The 2 large hex nuts on the seat rails are not accessible at the back, as it's partially covered by the seat mechanism, thus no tools can fit in.
We have dried out the top carpet, but to dry out the foam underneath the carpets, we will need to put the car under the sun for a couple of days. Unfortunately, the weather is not permitting (constantly raining).
Thus the questions I have:
a. Is there any other electronic boards or systems underneath the carpeting, in the 4 footwells, except for the 2 subwoofers?
b. Will plugging in the battery, but not starting out the car activates the amp in the back, and thus runs power to the subwoofer, if the radio is not on?
c. While the car ECU is under the glove compartment and is safe from any water contact, is there any other ECU or Computer boards controlling any other thing in the lower levels of the car? We see that most of the wiring are at the side of the car, underneath the panels, but it's been known that some cars like Audi has control system mounted below the footwells.
d. Is there a way to manually/physically move the front 2 seats without activating the battery and thus moving it electronically? We need to access the 4 hex bolts in order to remove the subwoofer on the driver side (right) but can't find a way to do it without activating the battery.
e. Does anyone has a wiring layout of an LCI e60 that can help show the location of the electronics of the car?
f. We managed to open one of the subwoofer, and while it's wet, the speaker itself looks to be ok, and once dried seems to be in good shape. Will the speaker still be usable if it's left to properly dry, thoroughly cleaned and oil on the rubber areas (seal)? Of course the speakers will be left outside until the car is completely dried out.
g. Is there any other precautions we should take, considering that we need to plug in the battery in the trunk in order to connect the seat electronics, move the seat and then take out the subwoofer.
h. Any other advise?
It's indeed a very sad case, but a lot of people has been saying that it's not actually very bad, but we just have to be very careful drying out the car completely before attempting to power the electronics.
Would greatly appreciate anyone's help, advise and insights into this.
Thanks.
I am really sad and it's been a really bad start to the new year. My new (2008) BMW LCI 530 E60 got flooded due to the freak weather here (a lot of cars was hit) and water got into the car at all 4 footwells of the car. This means, the subwoofer (under seat speakers), as well as the seat electronics (underneath the both front seats) are submerged
I have a HIFI Professional system with 10-speakers and the additional small amp at the back boot trunk (on the left side) as per the pictures posted on this thread.
Several points to be made before I list my questions below, and I sincerely hope that I can get some assistance from all of you to salvage the situation.
1. The footwells and underneath the front seats are definitely submerged for 3 or 4 inches (around ankle deep, but it didn't reach the top of the seat) i.e. a, thus this would definitely mean that the subwoofer speakers are submerged as well. This area was flooded for perhaps 2-3 hours.
2. The lower 1/3 of the footwell was totally flooded, thus the carpets, and foams underneath are soaking wet.
3. The car was NOT switched on during the flood and battery (red battery cable, in trunk of car) was promptly removed after opening the trunk (footwells still flooded by this time) but we are able to reach the car to unplug the battery.
4. The car was NOT started, and all pools of water was drained out promptly after this, although there is still a lot of water on the carpet and foam underneath the carpet.
5. Car was towed to the workshop the next day, and excess water was drained as much as we can by sucking out the water from the carpet, and blowing air thru the car. Carpet tops are now dry, but the foam underneath the carpet are still damp and some areas wet.
6. All cables connected to the seat, was disconnected, and the seat computer board and motors are immediately removed and dried. The computer board was cleaned using electrical cleaner and we checked for continuity tests using a multi-meter to see if anything was shorted. While we can't be sure, the continuity tests is fine as far as we can tell.
7. We are pretty lucky that the water is not muddy, and is clear. There are some sediments of sand, but it's very little.
8. The little amp that is powering the subs underneath the front seats has been disconnected, and there are no water at all in the trunk of the car, just in the 4 footwells inside the car. None of the fuse has been blown as far as we can tell, as we have not plugged back the battery or started the car since the battery cable was disconnected during day of flood.
9. The exhaust was removed to empty the water inside it, motor oil was changed and both air filter and oil filter was changed. We can confirm from the m-oil when bleeding it, that no water got into the engine. Engine bay at the front looks fine.
10. The ECU compartment, Gear box (I have an auto transmission) area, the dash board, etc, are all not in contact with the water, as the water didn't reach that level at all.
Now, it seems like the most important thing now is the issue of the electronics of the car, pertaining to the 2 front seat electronics and the underseat subwoofer. Because we have plugged out the battery, we are unable to move the electronic seat, and thus to open the subwoofer cover to reach those speakers. The 2 large hex nuts on the seat rails are not accessible at the back, as it's partially covered by the seat mechanism, thus no tools can fit in.
We have dried out the top carpet, but to dry out the foam underneath the carpets, we will need to put the car under the sun for a couple of days. Unfortunately, the weather is not permitting (constantly raining).
Thus the questions I have:
a. Is there any other electronic boards or systems underneath the carpeting, in the 4 footwells, except for the 2 subwoofers?
b. Will plugging in the battery, but not starting out the car activates the amp in the back, and thus runs power to the subwoofer, if the radio is not on?
c. While the car ECU is under the glove compartment and is safe from any water contact, is there any other ECU or Computer boards controlling any other thing in the lower levels of the car? We see that most of the wiring are at the side of the car, underneath the panels, but it's been known that some cars like Audi has control system mounted below the footwells.
d. Is there a way to manually/physically move the front 2 seats without activating the battery and thus moving it electronically? We need to access the 4 hex bolts in order to remove the subwoofer on the driver side (right) but can't find a way to do it without activating the battery.
e. Does anyone has a wiring layout of an LCI e60 that can help show the location of the electronics of the car?
f. We managed to open one of the subwoofer, and while it's wet, the speaker itself looks to be ok, and once dried seems to be in good shape. Will the speaker still be usable if it's left to properly dry, thoroughly cleaned and oil on the rubber areas (seal)? Of course the speakers will be left outside until the car is completely dried out.
g. Is there any other precautions we should take, considering that we need to plug in the battery in the trunk in order to connect the seat electronics, move the seat and then take out the subwoofer.
h. Any other advise?
It's indeed a very sad case, but a lot of people has been saying that it's not actually very bad, but we just have to be very careful drying out the car completely before attempting to power the electronics.
Would greatly appreciate anyone's help, advise and insights into this.
Thanks.
01-29-2009, 08:11 AM
#114
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My Ride: BMW E60 520d SE Saloon M47 2.0dTitanium Grey II, Grey−Dakota Leather, Visibility Package, Media Package, Through Load System, Lumbar support − fr seats, Automatic Air Conditioning−Advanced, High beam assistant, Hi−Fi Loudspeak
Model Year: 2006
Put this post as a new thread to receive better responses.
01-30-2009, 08:18 PM
#115
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My Ride: 05 530i
87 325is
85 VW GTI
Once a car gets flooded up to the ankles we would normally total them. Its not worth the liability to the insurance company to worry about electronics failing on the car, or worst case, becoming ill from mold spores in the carpet and sound deadner. I'd express to your claims adjuster that you're highly concerned for your health as you have a sensitive immune system and history of mold related hospitalizations (they won't ask for documents).
Originally Posted by beenthere' post='780176' date='Jan 29 2009, 09:01 AM
HI Bruce (and everyone else),
I am really sad and it's been a really bad start to the new year. My new (2008) BMW LCI 530 E60 got flooded due to the freak weather here (a lot of cars was hit) and water got into the car at all 4 footwells of the car. This means, the subwoofer (under seat speakers), as well as the seat electronics (underneath the both front seats) are submerged
I have a HIFI Professional system with 10-speakers and the additional small amp at the back boot trunk (on the left side) as per the pictures posted on this thread.
Several points to be made before I list my questions below, and I sincerely hope that I can get some assistance from all of you to salvage the situation.
1. The footwells and underneath the front seats are definitely submerged for 3 or 4 inches (around ankle deep, but it didn't reach the top of the seat) i.e. a, thus this would definitely mean that the subwoofer speakers are submerged as well. This area was flooded for perhaps 2-3 hours.
2. The lower 1/3 of the footwell was totally flooded, thus the carpets, and foams underneath are soaking wet.
3. The car was NOT switched on during the flood and battery (red battery cable, in trunk of car) was promptly removed after opening the trunk (footwells still flooded by this time) but we are able to reach the car to unplug the battery.
4. The car was NOT started, and all pools of water was drained out promptly after this, although there is still a lot of water on the carpet and foam underneath the carpet.
5. Car was towed to the workshop the next day, and excess water was drained as much as we can by sucking out the water from the carpet, and blowing air thru the car. Carpet tops are now dry, but the foam underneath the carpet are still damp and some areas wet.
6. All cables connected to the seat, was disconnected, and the seat computer board and motors are immediately removed and dried. The computer board was cleaned using electrical cleaner and we checked for continuity tests using a multi-meter to see if anything was shorted. While we can't be sure, the continuity tests is fine as far as we can tell.
7. We are pretty lucky that the water is not muddy, and is clear. There are some sediments of sand, but it's very little.
8. The little amp that is powering the subs underneath the front seats has been disconnected, and there are no water at all in the trunk of the car, just in the 4 footwells inside the car. None of the fuse has been blown as far as we can tell, as we have not plugged back the battery or started the car since the battery cable was disconnected during day of flood.
9. The exhaust was removed to empty the water inside it, motor oil was changed and both air filter and oil filter was changed. We can confirm from the m-oil when bleeding it, that no water got into the engine. Engine bay at the front looks fine.
10. The ECU compartment, Gear box (I have an auto transmission) area, the dash board, etc, are all not in contact with the water, as the water didn't reach that level at all.
Now, it seems like the most important thing now is the issue of the electronics of the car, pertaining to the 2 front seat electronics and the underseat subwoofer. Because we have plugged out the battery, we are unable to move the electronic seat, and thus to open the subwoofer cover to reach those speakers. The 2 large hex nuts on the seat rails are not accessible at the back, as it's partially covered by the seat mechanism, thus no tools can fit in.
We have dried out the top carpet, but to dry out the foam underneath the carpets, we will need to put the car under the sun for a couple of days. Unfortunately, the weather is not permitting (constantly raining).
Thus the questions I have:
a. Is there any other electronic boards or systems underneath the carpeting, in the 4 footwells, except for the 2 subwoofers?
b. Will plugging in the battery, but not starting out the car activates the amp in the back, and thus runs power to the subwoofer, if the radio is not on?
c. While the car ECU is under the glove compartment and is safe from any water contact, is there any other ECU or Computer boards controlling any other thing in the lower levels of the car? We see that most of the wiring are at the side of the car, underneath the panels, but it's been known that some cars like Audi has control system mounted below the footwells.
d. Is there a way to manually/physically move the front 2 seats without activating the battery and thus moving it electronically? We need to access the 4 hex bolts in order to remove the subwoofer on the driver side (right) but can't find a way to do it without activating the battery.
e. Does anyone has a wiring layout of an LCI e60 that can help show the location of the electronics of the car?
f. We managed to open one of the subwoofer, and while it's wet, the speaker itself looks to be ok, and once dried seems to be in good shape. Will the speaker still be usable if it's left to properly dry, thoroughly cleaned and oil on the rubber areas (seal)? Of course the speakers will be left outside until the car is completely dried out.
g. Is there any other precautions we should take, considering that we need to plug in the battery in the trunk in order to connect the seat electronics, move the seat and then take out the subwoofer.
h. Any other advise?
It's indeed a very sad case, but a lot of people has been saying that it's not actually very bad, but we just have to be very careful drying out the car completely before attempting to power the electronics.
Would greatly appreciate anyone's help, advise and insights into this.
Thanks.
I am really sad and it's been a really bad start to the new year. My new (2008) BMW LCI 530 E60 got flooded due to the freak weather here (a lot of cars was hit) and water got into the car at all 4 footwells of the car. This means, the subwoofer (under seat speakers), as well as the seat electronics (underneath the both front seats) are submerged
I have a HIFI Professional system with 10-speakers and the additional small amp at the back boot trunk (on the left side) as per the pictures posted on this thread.
Several points to be made before I list my questions below, and I sincerely hope that I can get some assistance from all of you to salvage the situation.
1. The footwells and underneath the front seats are definitely submerged for 3 or 4 inches (around ankle deep, but it didn't reach the top of the seat) i.e. a, thus this would definitely mean that the subwoofer speakers are submerged as well. This area was flooded for perhaps 2-3 hours.
2. The lower 1/3 of the footwell was totally flooded, thus the carpets, and foams underneath are soaking wet.
3. The car was NOT switched on during the flood and battery (red battery cable, in trunk of car) was promptly removed after opening the trunk (footwells still flooded by this time) but we are able to reach the car to unplug the battery.
4. The car was NOT started, and all pools of water was drained out promptly after this, although there is still a lot of water on the carpet and foam underneath the carpet.
5. Car was towed to the workshop the next day, and excess water was drained as much as we can by sucking out the water from the carpet, and blowing air thru the car. Carpet tops are now dry, but the foam underneath the carpet are still damp and some areas wet.
6. All cables connected to the seat, was disconnected, and the seat computer board and motors are immediately removed and dried. The computer board was cleaned using electrical cleaner and we checked for continuity tests using a multi-meter to see if anything was shorted. While we can't be sure, the continuity tests is fine as far as we can tell.
7. We are pretty lucky that the water is not muddy, and is clear. There are some sediments of sand, but it's very little.
8. The little amp that is powering the subs underneath the front seats has been disconnected, and there are no water at all in the trunk of the car, just in the 4 footwells inside the car. None of the fuse has been blown as far as we can tell, as we have not plugged back the battery or started the car since the battery cable was disconnected during day of flood.
9. The exhaust was removed to empty the water inside it, motor oil was changed and both air filter and oil filter was changed. We can confirm from the m-oil when bleeding it, that no water got into the engine. Engine bay at the front looks fine.
10. The ECU compartment, Gear box (I have an auto transmission) area, the dash board, etc, are all not in contact with the water, as the water didn't reach that level at all.
Now, it seems like the most important thing now is the issue of the electronics of the car, pertaining to the 2 front seat electronics and the underseat subwoofer. Because we have plugged out the battery, we are unable to move the electronic seat, and thus to open the subwoofer cover to reach those speakers. The 2 large hex nuts on the seat rails are not accessible at the back, as it's partially covered by the seat mechanism, thus no tools can fit in.
We have dried out the top carpet, but to dry out the foam underneath the carpets, we will need to put the car under the sun for a couple of days. Unfortunately, the weather is not permitting (constantly raining).
Thus the questions I have:
a. Is there any other electronic boards or systems underneath the carpeting, in the 4 footwells, except for the 2 subwoofers?
b. Will plugging in the battery, but not starting out the car activates the amp in the back, and thus runs power to the subwoofer, if the radio is not on?
c. While the car ECU is under the glove compartment and is safe from any water contact, is there any other ECU or Computer boards controlling any other thing in the lower levels of the car? We see that most of the wiring are at the side of the car, underneath the panels, but it's been known that some cars like Audi has control system mounted below the footwells.
d. Is there a way to manually/physically move the front 2 seats without activating the battery and thus moving it electronically? We need to access the 4 hex bolts in order to remove the subwoofer on the driver side (right) but can't find a way to do it without activating the battery.
e. Does anyone has a wiring layout of an LCI e60 that can help show the location of the electronics of the car?
f. We managed to open one of the subwoofer, and while it's wet, the speaker itself looks to be ok, and once dried seems to be in good shape. Will the speaker still be usable if it's left to properly dry, thoroughly cleaned and oil on the rubber areas (seal)? Of course the speakers will be left outside until the car is completely dried out.
g. Is there any other precautions we should take, considering that we need to plug in the battery in the trunk in order to connect the seat electronics, move the seat and then take out the subwoofer.
h. Any other advise?
It's indeed a very sad case, but a lot of people has been saying that it's not actually very bad, but we just have to be very careful drying out the car completely before attempting to power the electronics.
Would greatly appreciate anyone's help, advise and insights into this.
Thanks.
02-01-2009, 10:12 AM
#116
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Bruce-
Your articles and pictures are great !
I just bought a US 2008 528I which obviously has the hifi unit as standard. I have bought the earthquake subs and was thinking about taking things a step further by installing a 5 channel amp such as the Infinity Reference 5350a or an Alpine PDX-5.
My goal is to use the amp wiring guide and plug you used to power my subs however, I want to take it one step further and power the rest of the speakers in the car from the amp through the factory wiring.
As for the remaining 8 speakers, I want to drive them off the remaining 4 channels on the amp and wondered if there is a crossover that runs to those tweeters anywhere between the speaker wire and the speaker itself?
What Ohm load would I need to power the remaining 8?
Are the tweeters wired in via the speakers in the door or do they have their own discreet wiring?
Specifically where is the wire harness located so that I could tap into the factory wiring?
I want to confirm that the line level on pins 13,3,4,14 are true line level full frequency signal which means I wouldn't need to use a line output converter.
Could you provide a wiring reference for the rest of the factory speaker wiring in the same format as you have done for 20 pin plug? (If already posted elswhere, a link would be suffice.)
Also what part numbers and quantities would I need to build the plug for this?
Your articles and pictures are great !
I just bought a US 2008 528I which obviously has the hifi unit as standard. I have bought the earthquake subs and was thinking about taking things a step further by installing a 5 channel amp such as the Infinity Reference 5350a or an Alpine PDX-5.
My goal is to use the amp wiring guide and plug you used to power my subs however, I want to take it one step further and power the rest of the speakers in the car from the amp through the factory wiring.
As for the remaining 8 speakers, I want to drive them off the remaining 4 channels on the amp and wondered if there is a crossover that runs to those tweeters anywhere between the speaker wire and the speaker itself?
What Ohm load would I need to power the remaining 8?
Are the tweeters wired in via the speakers in the door or do they have their own discreet wiring?
Specifically where is the wire harness located so that I could tap into the factory wiring?
I want to confirm that the line level on pins 13,3,4,14 are true line level full frequency signal which means I wouldn't need to use a line output converter.
Could you provide a wiring reference for the rest of the factory speaker wiring in the same format as you have done for 20 pin plug? (If already posted elswhere, a link would be suffice.)
Also what part numbers and quantities would I need to build the plug for this?
02-01-2009, 03:01 PM
#117
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My Ride: BMW E60 520d SE Saloon M47 2.0dTitanium Grey II, Grey−Dakota Leather, Visibility Package, Media Package, Through Load System, Lumbar support − fr seats, Automatic Air Conditioning−Advanced, High beam assistant, Hi−Fi Loudspeak
Model Year: 2006
The line levels on the amp are not full range but already crossed over low freq lines only. So you may not be able to run the 5 ch amp using those feeds.
02-09-2009, 01:35 PM
#120
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After thinking about it last night, here is what I've decided to do for now........
I bought an Alpine PDX5 (5 channel) amplifier, I also bought a set of MB Quart 4" components with tweeters. I already own a set of 12" Rockford Fosgate 12s in a sealed box, it fits nicely up against the rear seats. I also ordered a MTX REQ-5 signal processor. My immediate plan is to install the REQ-5 using the factory front speaker wires to feed the front input, then use the BMW factory sub amp output to feed the sub input. This will give me a clean filtered output to feed the front input on the PDX5 as well as a for the sub input on the PDX5.
So, the front outputs of the new amp will drive the MB's in the front doors set to play at ~400hz and up; the rear outputs will drive the factory BMW 8" woofers at 400hz and below, and the sub output will drive the Rockford 12s in the trunk at somewhere around 60hz and below. The last remaining speakers (factory BMW in the rear deck) will remain driven off of the BMW radio. This way, I still have front-to-rear fading with no subwoofer fading, and if I remove the 12" subs/box for long trips I'll still have good bass response out of the factory 8"s.
I'm kicking around the option to use the sub output of the REQ5 to drive both the rear input on the PDX5 as well as the sub input, because (thanks to Bruce) I understand that the BWM subwoofer output is already crossed over for low-end response anyway. So, I could set the cross over on the amp to high-pass only on the rear channels, and use the amp to drive the BMW 8"s at a limited range of say 60hz to 200hz, instead of just 400hz and below. This would have the 12s at 60hz and below, the factory 8s at 60hz to 200hz, and the MB components at 400hz and up, additionally with the rear deck speakers playing at normal (current) range.
Upgrade option for later will be to use the PDX5 rear channels to drive the rear deck speakers instead of the 8s, and using the sub channel to then drive those 8.s. Then adding a 600.1 to drive the 12's in the box.
I bought an Alpine PDX5 (5 channel) amplifier, I also bought a set of MB Quart 4" components with tweeters. I already own a set of 12" Rockford Fosgate 12s in a sealed box, it fits nicely up against the rear seats. I also ordered a MTX REQ-5 signal processor. My immediate plan is to install the REQ-5 using the factory front speaker wires to feed the front input, then use the BMW factory sub amp output to feed the sub input. This will give me a clean filtered output to feed the front input on the PDX5 as well as a for the sub input on the PDX5.
So, the front outputs of the new amp will drive the MB's in the front doors set to play at ~400hz and up; the rear outputs will drive the factory BMW 8" woofers at 400hz and below, and the sub output will drive the Rockford 12s in the trunk at somewhere around 60hz and below. The last remaining speakers (factory BMW in the rear deck) will remain driven off of the BMW radio. This way, I still have front-to-rear fading with no subwoofer fading, and if I remove the 12" subs/box for long trips I'll still have good bass response out of the factory 8"s.
I'm kicking around the option to use the sub output of the REQ5 to drive both the rear input on the PDX5 as well as the sub input, because (thanks to Bruce) I understand that the BWM subwoofer output is already crossed over for low-end response anyway. So, I could set the cross over on the amp to high-pass only on the rear channels, and use the amp to drive the BMW 8"s at a limited range of say 60hz to 200hz, instead of just 400hz and below. This would have the 12s at 60hz and below, the factory 8s at 60hz to 200hz, and the MB components at 400hz and up, additionally with the rear deck speakers playing at normal (current) range.
Upgrade option for later will be to use the PDX5 rear channels to drive the rear deck speakers instead of the 8s, and using the sub channel to then drive those 8.s. Then adding a 600.1 to drive the 12's in the box.