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Old 04-30-2013, 05:34 PM
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I have a '06 530i, build date 03/05, with 127K miles. The starter died this past weekend and am currently in process of replacing it. At this point I have the intake manifold off and the starter removed. I searched for starter removal on the forum and found a few posts regarding the process.

I need to say that there is an error in one of the posts regarding the size of the starter bolts. The starter bolts are an E14 torx, the attached photo shows an E14 socket on the left, the two starter bolts and an E12 socket on the right. The E12 is what was referenced in the DIY post I used as reference.

The other two pics show the connecting line (03 in ETK) and the return line (04 in ETK) connection at the oil separator (01 in ETK) at the rear of the intake manifold. These hoses need to be disconnected in order to remove the intake manifold. The return line is a bear to remove and we could not remove it until we had the intake manifold loosened enough to get access to it.

In addition, although not mentioned in the TIS, we removed the resonator with rubber boot to gain additional clearance and access.

Due to the mileage and the age old adage, 'while I'm there', I will be replacing the oil separator, and the crankcase ventilation hoses as preventative maintenance.
Attached Thumbnails Starter R&R-img_6539.jpg   Starter R&R-img_3152.jpg   Starter R&R-img_6533.jpg  
Old 04-30-2013, 06:42 PM
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Very interesting! Please provide pics and comments for us to learn.

I too, have a 2006 530i. The year built is also on 03/05. lol

Good luck and smooth journey to you!
Old 05-01-2013, 06:08 AM
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I went thru the same process in January. I replaced the starter [on my '06 530i] as a preventive maintenance since it seems to be a common failure and my car has 125K miles on the original starter. For that long torx bolt on the starter that is facing the firewall and there was no room to put a socket and a wrench, I used the 12-point box wrench.

While I had everything open, I took the opportunity to replace the oil separator, and all related hoses as well. Disconnected the throttle body from the manifold, cleaned the throttle body and replaced the large o-ring on the throttle body as well.

Removing those oil separator hoses was &%&*^(*&((*&$#@$# especially in cold (Boston area in January).

While I had the manifold out, I had an opportunity to look closely at intake valves. They are relatively clean. I even contemplated replacing the crankshaft position sensor that is located right below the starter (look at the connector with yellow wires).
Attached Thumbnails Starter R&R-dsc00846_r.jpg   Starter R&R-dsc00884_r.jpg  

Last edited by pcy; 05-01-2013 at 06:14 AM.
Old 05-01-2013, 06:16 AM
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My car's build date is 03/05 as well. :-)
Old 05-01-2013, 07:22 AM
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Good job, gentlemen. And thank you for sharing!

It seems like the hardest part of the job is removing the manifold(?). Other than the 12-point box wrench, a socket wrench set, a pack of cool beer, which other tools would I need to get the job done?

My car is almost at 79,000 miles and I might give it a try someday. lol

Thanks again!
Old 05-01-2013, 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by E60I
It seems like the hardest part of the job is removing the manifold(?). Other than the 12-point box wrench, a socket wrench set, a pack of cool beer, which other tools would I need to get the job done?
Please look at the first picture I posted earlier - specifically, the wiring harness. All those wires are attached at the bottom of the manifold. You will need to disconnect most of those wires. To make sure I know where they came from, I labeled each wire (as you can see in the picture).

The bolt I was talking about is shown in the picture below. It's so close to the firewall and it's facing the firewall. To make it worse, it's a long bolt. There is a recess in the firewall just above the bell housing that allows the bolt to slide IN TO the firewall and then you pull it out.

To disconnect the vent hoses on the valve cover, and the oil separator, we need to pinch on the end and pull out. Due to age and high temp, they become hard and difficult to pinch with fingers. Having 'hose grip pliers' may help detaching those hoses.
Attached Thumbnails Starter R&R-dsc00877_r.jpg  
Old 05-01-2013, 08:56 PM
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Yes the top torx starter bolt was hard to get to, I used a e14 socket and universal ratchet to loosen the bolt, however I'll be using an e14 boxend to tighten it up.

I've also removed the throttle body from the intake manifold and will be cleaning it. My parts come in to the dealer tomorrow and I'll be putting things back together.
Old 05-03-2013, 03:55 PM
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Here are a couple of pics, Pic 1 and Pic 2, showing the Connecting Line (03) and the Return Pipe (04) and their relationship with the Oil Separator (01). Refer to 11_3738 for parts diagram. The oil separator is on the inside and at rear of the intake manifold near the firewall.

The Return Pipe upper connection, Pic 1, is a bear to undo, we had to practically remove the intake manifold in order to gain access to the hose for removal. In Pic 2, you can see the Return Pipe lower connection at the oil pan, this may be the preferred location to disconnect the hose. The Connecting LIne upper connection is at the rear of the valve cover, easy location for disconnecting.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf
11_3738.pdf (82.2 KB, 134 views)
File Type: pdf
Pic 1.pdf (1.90 MB, 123 views)
File Type: pdf
Pic 2.pdf (498.3 KB, 101 views)
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